Timelessness Is the Latest in Spring Styles : Helga

Los Angeles designer Helga unveiled her 1986 resort/spring collection recently, and she sums it up with words such as “sophisticated,” “elegant” and “a decidedly beautiful feeling.”

As usual, her distinctly European sensibilities, combined with a California outlook, make the clothes au courant, yet timeless.

No single silhouette dominates the line, because Helga clearly believes in providing options for women. Since all women don’t fit into one mold, she creates several molds.

She offers classic suits for day with neat, cropped jackets, peplumed jackets and traditional blazers, all teamed with slim or pleated skirts. Some dresses are crisp and tailored, as in a navy-and-white pin-stripe coatdress with red, striped lapels and cuffs, while others are soft and billowy.

The most exciting designs have drop waists or fall straight from the shoulders. Colors are bright--shocking pink to tangerine. Helga is big on bold florals this season as well as abstract prints.

For evening, the designer draws attention to the hips with shirring and hip sashes. To a full-skirted, champagne-colored silk Jacquard dress with a low torso, she adds a romantic, white organza Chelsea collar. Yet, she turns modern with a sequined chemise in the palest shade of lilac.

For the most glamorous occasions, Helga drapes a silk flower and leaf-print silk into a strapless gown and shows it worn with a snappy black jacket.