Nutri-Data . . . An Apple Ripe for Every Occasion : Flavors and Textures of Different Varieties Are Clues to Their Best Use

During the holiday season, a cornucopia of seasonal fruits and vegetables provides great beginnings for special dishes, and apples are a particular favorite during this time of year. Legends and mythical lore about the apple can be traced throughout history, from the early 1800s when Johnny Appleseed planted apple trees so that settlers in Pennsylvania might have fruit to eat, to the myth of the one that hit Sir Issac Newton on his head.

There are many varieties of the apple today--each being suitable for a different aspect of eatery and cookery. Each has its own distinctive flavor, texture and appearance. Red Delicious and Golden Delicious, for example, have good eye and taste appeal, whereas Cortlands are best for salads, and Rome Beauties and Pippins are best for baking.

In a recent taste test conducted in The Times’ Test Kitchen, we compared some locally available apples to a newcomer in the apple market, the Criterion. The Criterion was selected overall as the best tasting for out-of-hand eating, as well as the most ideal for use in any type of cooking and baking, except in instances where color of the apple is a factor.

Distinctive Red Blush

The fruit was discovered in 1968 in a Washington orchard. It is very attractive in appearance, looking much like the Golden Delicious except for a distinctive red blush on one cheek. Like the Red Delicious, the Criterion has five points projecting from its base. It was described by our tasters as crisp and tart, yet sweet and incredibly juicy. It was the hands-down winner for all-purpose use. The Criterion is available at Irvine Ranch Market, Pantry Food and Gelson’s.

Apples are fairly low in calorie content. A medium one, about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, contains about 76 calories. It ranks high as an internal cleanser, too, an added plus in today’s fiber- and fitness-conscious times.

Here is a brief description of some available varieties and some suggestions for their use. Try holding an apple tasting at home, as tastes do differ and you may find contrary results.

RED DELICIOUS--Characterized by its elongated shape, deep red skin color and five knob-like points projecting from the blossom end. Its flesh is white and juicy. It usually is quite firm but can on occasion be mealy and disappointing. It possesses a very sweet taste, which also varies among apples. Red Delicious is best suited for out-of-hand eating or serving sliced with other fruits and topped with a yogurt dressing for dessert. Red Delicious apples are available almost year-round.

GOLDEN DELICIOUS--Color varies from light, bright green to yellowish-golden in very ripe fruit. It possesses a tender skin and rich, fine-grained whitish flesh. The Golden Delicious is an all-purpose apple with a delicately sweet flavor. It is suitable for cooking and baking as well as for out-of-hand snacking or serving sliced in salads.

JONATHAN--Generally a rich red color with tiny white dots. The flesh is creamy white and extremely juicy. The flavor is tart but pleasant, which makes Jonathans ideal for cooking and baking. They are available from September to October.

ROME BEAUTY--Spherical in shape with a brilliant bright red color. They have very strong skin and juicy, mushy flesh. This aromatic apple is best suited for making applesauce and other cooked dishes, as well as for baking.

GRANNY SMITH--Available year-round and moderately tart and very firm. They have been rated excellent for snacking, using in pies and good for baking or use in salads.

GRAVENSTEIN--Moderately tart, juicy and quite tender. Their desirability as a snacking or whole baked fruit is less than for their use cooked in pies.

CORTLAND--A slightly tart apple with tender flesh. It excels in its quality for snacking and use in salads, yet it is still quite suitable for baking and cooking.

NEWTON PIPPIN--A round variety that ranges from pale to bright green. Its flavor is quite tart and thus lends itself well to the sweet candy coating of candy or caramel apples. Pippins are generally quite crisp and hold up well when baked in pies. They begin to brown rather rapidly and should be stored in lemon juice and ice water (about 1/4 cup juice to 1 cup water) if they won’t be used immediately.

McINTOSH--With its pale red skin, this variety is ideal for use in baked apple recipes. They are extremely tart and unsuitable for out-of-hand eating or in salads.

CRANBERRY-BLACKBERRY-

APPLE PIE

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated ready-made pie crusts

1 teaspoon flour

4 cups sliced peeled apples

1 cup frozen blackberries, thawed and drained

1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries, thawed and drained

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons creme de cassis liqueur

2 tablespoons butter

Prepare pie crust according to package directions for double-crust pie.

Combine apples, blackberries, cranberries, sugar, cornstarch and liqueur in large bowl. Toss lightly. Spoon apple mixture into crust-lined pie plate. Dot with butter. Top with second crust and flute.

Cut slits in several places. Bake at 425 degrees 30 to 40 minutes or until apples are tender. Cover edge of pie crust with strip of foil during last 10 to 15 minutes baking time, if needed, to prevent excessive browning. Cool at least 1 hour before serving. Makes 8 servings.

Variation: To expose fruit in center of pie, unfold crust and remove 1 plastic sheet. Press out fold lines. In center of crust, make 4 (4-inch) slashes in crisscross design. Peel back center points of crust to form 8 petals. Gently press points onto crust. Replace plastic sheet over pie crust. Turn over, remove bottom plastic sheet and place pie crust over fruit filling so that petals are on top. Remove second plastic sheet. Seal and flute edges.

PER SERVING: 430 calories; 2 gm protein; 63 gm carbohydrate; 19 gm fat; 360 mg sodium; 150 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein02% Riboflavin 00% Vitamin A 04% Niacin02% Vitamin C 06% Calcium 00% Thiamine 02% Iron 02% APPLE-OAT BARS

1 cup oats

1 1/4 cups flour

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup butter, softened

1 egg, beaten

4 apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 16ths

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Crumb Topping

Combine oats, 1 cup flour, brown sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut in butter until crumbly. Stir in beaten egg. Spread mixture into 15x10-inch jellyroll pan.

Gently toss apples with granulated sugar, remaining 1/4 cup flour and nutmeg. Arrange on crust. Sprinkle Crumb Topping in diagonal pattern over apples. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until apples are tender. Cut into bars or squares. Makes 20 servings of 2 bars each.

Crumb Topping

1/3 cup oats

1/3 cup flour

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup butter, softened

Combine oats, flour and sugar in bowl. Cut in butter until crumbly.

PER SERVING: 236 calories; 2 gm protein; 30 gm carbohydrate; 12 gm fat; 207 mg sodium; 91 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein 04% Riboflavin 04% Vitamin A 11% Niacin 03% Vitamin C 02% Calcium 02% Thiamine 08% Iron 05% APPLE-CABBAGE SKILLET DINNER

3 apples

6 cups shredded cabbage

1/2 cup thinly sliced onion

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 pound fully cooked sausages

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1/4 cup mustard

Core and shred 2 apples. Combine with cabbage and onion. Saute apple mixture in butter 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in water, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Pierce sausages with fork and place over apple mixture. Cook, covered, 10 minutes or until cabbage is barely cooked and sausages are thoroughly heated. Core and wedge remaining apple and add to skillet with parsley. Cook, covered, 1 minute. Serve with mustard. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: 512 calories; 20 gm protein; 28 gm carbohydrate; 37 gm fat; 1,898 mg sodium; 700 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein 31% Riboflavin 18% Vitamin A 13% Niacin 20% Vitamin C 98% Calcium 09% Thiamine 32% Iron 22% APPLE-PASTA SALAD

6 ounces rotini or elbow macaroni

1/2 cup oil

5 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 apples, cored and sliced

1 1/2 cups cooked ham, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

1 small zucchini, thinly sliced and parboiled

1/2 cup chopped green onions

Cook pasta in boiling salted water 8 to 10 minutes or until tender. Drain. Combine oil, 3 tablespoons lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, salt, sugar and pepper. Mix well. Pour dressing over warm macaroni. Refrigerate until completely cooled.

Reserve several apple slices for garnish. Dip in remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice to retard discoloring. Dice remaining apples. Combine macaroni, diced apples, ham, zucchini and green onions. Chill several hours. Spoon salad into serving bowl. Arrange reserved apple slices on top. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

PER SERVING: 416 calories; 11 gm protein; 28 gm carbohydrate; 30 gm fat; 576 mg sodium; 272 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein 17% Riboflavin 10% Vitamin A 06% Niacin 13% Vitamin C 24% Calcium 03% Thiamine 21% Iron 11% APPLE-SPINACH TOSSED SALAD

2 apples

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 pound spinach

1 small cucumber, sliced

1/2 cup sliced radishes

Mint Dressing

2 tablespoons dry-roasted sunflower seeds

Core and slice apples. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Wash spinach and tear into bite-size pieces. Place apples, spinach, cucumber and radishes in salad bowl. Toss with Mint Dressing. Sprinkle with sunflower seeds. Makes 6 servings.

Mint Dressing

1/3 cup oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons chopped green onion

1/2 teaspoon dried mint flakes or 1 tablespoon chopped mint

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

Combine oil, lemon juice, green onion, mint, salt, pepper and sugar. Mix well.

PER SERVING: 190 calories; 4 gm protein; 15 gm carbohydrate; 14 gm fat; 238 mg sodium; 572 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein 06% Riboflavin 11% Vitamin A 126% Niacin 04% Vitamin C 89% Calcium 10% Thiamine 12% Iron 19% WALNUT-APPLE CRISP

5 cups thinly sliced tart apples

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup rolled oats

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Toss apples with lemon juice and water in shallow 2-quart baking dish. Combine flour, oats, sugar, nutmeg and salt in large bowl. Mix to blend thoroughly.

Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Mix in walnuts. Crumble over apples to cover completely but do not pack down. Bake at 350 degrees 40 to 45 minutes until top is lightly browned. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serve with ice cream or cream, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Nutrient data does not include ice cream or cream.

PER SERVING: 525 calories; 5 gm protein; 66 gm carbohydrate; 29 gm fat; 246 mg sodium; 363 mg potassium.

USRDA

Protein 08% Riboflavin 07% Vitamin A 14% Niacin 05% Vitamin C 11% Calcium 07% Thiamine 14% Iron 15%