HOMETOWN GUIDE : Mammoth Lakes a la Carte : Dining in the Neighborhood: Where the Locals Like to Go

Boyd Lemmon, mayor of Mammoth Lakes: “I eat lunch out, and I divide my time between two places--Swiss Cafe and O’Kelly and Dunn Co. Both are charming. Unfortunately, I’m on one of those half-baked diets where I’m not supposed to eat a lot of things, so I try to stick to chicken and salad. At Swiss Cafe, my favorite is baked chicken, and at O’Kelly and Dunn’s I order Cobb salad; it has lots of blue cheese in it, which I’m not supposed to have but I can’t totally deprive myself of. The desserts at both places--no-nos of the highest caliber for me--are scrumptious.”

Bill Cox, floor manager, Kittredge Sports: “I have three favorite places. There’s the Island Cafe, which is real small and frequented mostly by locals. It’s known for its great homemade soups and sandwiches, but I go there for the chalupas . Berger’s has good food--hamburgers in particular--big portions and reasonable prices. For a fancier meal I like the Matterhorn, which serves European cuisine. I don’t go for any particular thing; I’m working my way through the menu.”

Barbara Campbell, director of tours and marketing, Sierra Nevada Inn: “I love the Matterhorn Restaurant--good sauces, a delicate house dressing on the salad, beautiful service in a lovely atmosphere. When I’m in the mood for duck, I go to the Rafter’s; their honey duck is outstanding. The Mogul is also popular with the locals. It’s casual and nicely priced, with a good salad bar, good steaks and a great veggie-seafood combination.”

Chris Wedeking: “Being an old L.A. girl, I have to laugh when people in Mammoth say that a particular restaurant up here has the best food they’ve ever eaten. But there are some good ones. I like the Paradise Restaurant, which is in the old Paradise Lodge. It’s kind of funky--Rock Creek runs right through the middle of the dining room--and they serve good, simple food. Firehouse Grill in Bishop is another favorite. Bishop’s Creek Lodge is the best-kept secret around. The menu is small but very good. There are only about seven tables; it’s an old warming hut for cross-country skiers, with a big fireplace and log furniture. Unfortunately, it’s hard to get to when there’s lots of snow so it’s kept open only to serve hot chocolate to cross-country skiers.”

Ray Windsor, town manager, Mammoth Lakes: “I’m not the gourmet type. I like basic fare; a sort of soup-and-salad man, you might say. But weighing all factors--quality, ambiance, service--I’d have to say O’Kelly and Dunn Co. for lunch and Roget’s for dinner.”

Julie Beer, office assistant, Dept. of Fish and Game at Hot Creek Hatchery: “When my husband, Walt, and I go out, we like Carson Peak Inn, at June Lake. It’s quiet, it has a nice atmosphere, and the food is good. When we’re in the mood for prime rib, we choose Mono Inn, at Mono Lake. Here in town, we go to the Mogul, which has a homey atmosphere and reasonable prices, and a new Mexican restaurant, Salsa’s, with quite a varied, interesting menu.”

Dave McCoy, owner/operator, Mammoth Mountain Ski Area: “My very favorite is a Chinese restaurant, Golden Dragon. For a fancier meal, I enjoy Roget’s. And of course--although I probably shouldn’t be saying this because I own them--Altitude 9000 and the Yodler Restaurant at the Mammoth Mountain Inn.”

Robin Thompson, publisher/editor, Mammoth Magazine: “I prefer out-of-the-way places like the Island Cafe, for a simple lunch or dinner, and the Lakefront Restaurant, at Tamarack Lodge, where my favorite dish is eggplant Parmesan.”

Berger’s Restaurant, Minaret Road, (619) 934-6622. This is the place for good hamburgers and what are purported to be the best fries in the Sierra. Unfortunately, in the winter the restaurant does not open until 4 p.m. “Maybe we’re crazy for losing customers,” says owner Sally Berger, “but we like to ski.”

Firehouse Grill, 2206 N. Sierra Highway, Bishop, (619) 873-4888. Freshly cut steaks are the favorite items here, but owner Jeff Hansen goes out of his way to make sure you’re satisfied with everything. (A customer once left a large piece of fish uneaten, and Hansen cooked up a portion for himself to check the flavor.) Vegetables and salads are fresh and crisp, and the desserts (from a bakery in San Diego) are delicious. They have a delicate pumpkin cheesecake that is superb.

The Island Cafe, Sherwin Plaza, Old Mammoth Road, (619) 934-3902. There are crayons on the table so that you can color your place mat while you’re waiting (one wall is devoted to the artistic endeavors of the patrons), or you can choose a book from the restaurant library. The hearty, homemade soups are perfect when it’s cold and snowy outside.

O’Kelly and Dunn Co., Old Mammoth Mall, Old Mammoth Road, (619) 934-9316. Tasty breakfasts (don’t miss the cinnamon buns and blueberry muffins--good coffee too) and lunches are served in a cozy, country setting created by owners Nancy Kelly and Jan Dunn. If you have to wait for a table, you can browse among the fine selection of gift items they’ve collected.

Roget’s, Main Street, and Minaret Road, (619) 934-4466. Roget’s is a nice change of pace from steaks and burgers . Entree choices include chicken Roget, an Oriental melange of sliced breast of chicken, sauteed with scallions, mushrooms, pea pods and cashews; pasta primavera , with pine nuts; and broiled lamb chops, served with a choice of fresh herb butter, fresh mint and Madeira wine sauce or Amaretto-almond sauce. The dining room, with its burgundy accents, is a nice place to linger over coffee, and the service is attentive without being pushy.

Swiss Cafe, Old Mammoth Road, (619) 934-6196. This cheerful restaurant is a favorite among locals for breakfast and lunch. Good old-fashioned stick-to-the-ribs fare--eggs, potatoes, sausage, build-your-own omelets and waffles--will get you off to a good start. All baked goods, from croissants to strudel, are made on the premises.