TAPAS: 10 LITTLE DISHES

The tapas craze, which is peaking in New York, is on the verge of erupting in Los Angeles, if voices in the air speak truthfully. Restaurants featuring these traditional Spanish appetizers served on tiny plates are popping up here and there. Tapas seem to fit in.

The hearty nibble food is taken on the run to or from theater, or savored over drinks by an increasing number of singles and couples who rarely make it to dinner. Tapas, in fact, can replace dinner.

In Spain, the sampling of an amazing array of tapas is a passionate pastime between the hours of 7 and 10 p.m. An evening of tapas may end with a late dinner or not, depending on the appetite or what the budget can endure.

Every tapas bar in every town and village of Spain boasts a specialty, making tapas bar-hopping an adventure wherever one dines.

One stands at the packed counter and orders a few gambas (shrimp) cooked over a grill, and served on paper squares or tiny plates with a small glass of wine or Sherry. A heap of emptied shells lies at one’s feet, as is the custom of disposing of the shells wherever gambas are served.

Then on to the place next door where the specialty might be dishes made with saffron, rice, chicken wings or snails, then to yet another bar where as many as 20 to 100 tapas specialties (we give 10 recipes) may range from the Spanish omelet called tortilla to chorizos on toast, grilled mushrooms, skewered meats, airy rings of fried squid, snails, baby eels, beans and roasted peppers.

That’s in Spain.

Having fond remembrances of those lovely evenings of tapas bar-hopping near the Plaza Mayor in Madrid, we turned to Jean Leon, a native of Spain, who owns and operates La Scala restaurant and boutique in Beverly Hills and Presto restaurant in Brentwood (both Italian restaurants), for help in preparing some tapas for our story. He and his chef, Emilio Nunez, a Spaniard also from the northern Basque region, graciously consented to do so and we have since photographed Nunez’s tapas on the counter at Presto for these pages.

According to Penelope Casas, author of “Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain,” (Knopf: $22.95 hardcover; $12.95 paperback), tapas , from the Spanish verb tapar, meaning to top or cover, probably originated in Andalusia, where Spanish Sherry is made, and cries out for some food accompaniment.

Originally, writes Casas, tapas were said to consist only of salty slices of cured ham, called jamon serrano , or chorizo placed over the mouth of a wine glass to accompany the wine. Others describe tapas as having originally been served only on top of a counter, hence their name. The tapas style of serving many small plates, however, could stem from pre-dinner appetizer customs of maza (or meze) brought to Spain by Saracens and Moors.

But tapas are easily adapted for use at home, patio, picnic or beach. And they make wonderful party food, used as a substitute for dinner. They tend to be filling as pre-dinner fare, but the choice is up to the host. Most tapas are served at room temperature or cold, but there are hot tapas , such as Asturiana, the pot of beans shown here, too.

Tapas prepared at home need not be elaborate. In fact, the simplest tapas , which Spaniards call tapas naturales , may include a few pantry shelf items, such as olives, almonds, marinated artichoke heart, canned sardines and pimiento. They may consist of grilled shrimp, oysters or mussels on the half-shell, fresh tuna drizzled with olive oil, or pickled cucumbers.

In addition to the cooked appetizers, Nunez also served Spanish cheese called queso manchego (found at most gourmet food stores or cheese shops locally) and a few Spanish cold cuts, including chorizo (a dried version of the fresh Mexican chorizo ), a dried pork loin called lomo de cerdo (available at Spanish and Philippine grocery stores) and j a mon serrano , the Spanish cousin of Italian prosciutto. Like Italian prosciutto, the imported Spanish version is unavailable in the United States, but domestic prosciuttos are easily substituted.

Spanish olives (called aceitunas if you use the small green Spanish olives) and almonds--two favorite appetizers in Spain--also can be added to the tapas menu.

If you are planning a tapas party, select several that can be prepared well ahead of time and that do well in the freezer or refrigerator for a period of time. Among the group given here, the roasted red peppers can be prepared a day or two in advance. The asparagus in vinaigrette sauce and lobster salad can be prepared early in the day or the night before.

The tortilla can also be prepared early in the day, but we suggest no sooner, as the best is always fresh. One of the tortilla recipes given here is the classic Banderillas, which takes its name from the bullfighting vocabulary ( banderilla is the dart used in bullfights). The tortilla is cut into squares, topped with a slice of chorizo and speared with a wood pick. The omelets, however, can be served from the pan, cut into slivers.

Clams used in any menu should be freshly purchased and prepared an hour or two ahead.

The fried squid achieves its crisp, light texture because of its breading with only milk and flour. These can be breaded and stored in the refrigerator until ready to fry.

Set a tapas table with a stack of small saucers for guests to help themselves. Serve the Sherry chilled or over ice, if desired. Red or white wine served from the bottle, traditional Spanish wine pitchers or the porron demonstrated by Nunez in the photograph on Page 1, can be poured by the guests or host as needed.

Tapas are ideally served with either red or white wine or a very dry Fino Sherry, such as Amontillado, chilled or at room temperature. Other beverages such as beer, Champagne or even sangria would also make suitable tapas drinks.

The Barcelona in Santa Monica was probably the first restaurant in the Los Angeles area to introduce tapas more than a year ago. Theirs is the authentic tasca ( tapas bar) fare, such as the Boquerones Fritos al Ajello, which is a favorite tapas throughout Spain, as well as empanadas made with veal, eggs stuffed with tuna, mussels with tomato sauce and stuffed eggs, all served to order.

Among the newcomers to the restaurant tapas scene is Scratch, a restaurant in Santa Monica, which now serves tapas from the bar beginning this week, along with the California cuisine fare. Theirs is an interpretation of Spanish tapas , prepared by chef Dominique Raynal--quail served with a chile sauce, sardines with tomatoes and rosemary, clams with white wine and shallots and an olive dip served with endive leaves, among them.

The tapas at Copa de Oro in Costa Mesa are served with flair at the bar each afternoon but make their greatest impact on Friday night when the TGIF crowd arrives en masse. Among the tapas served at Copa de Oro is sopas , fried boat-shaped disks made with masa topped with a number of toppings, including black beans and a chile sauce flavored with tequila. Many of the ingredients, among them chile purees, are available at most Mexican grocery stores. We give these and other recipes from the restaurants and Nunez’ family file for your next tapas party. CHORIZO OMELET BITES (Banderillas)

2 large potatoes

1 cup olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

Salt

4 eggs

36 to 40 (1-inch) squares French bread

36 to 40 thin slices hard Spanish chorizo

Peel and cut potatoes lengthwise into 4 slices, then slice 1/2 inch thick crosswise. Heat oil in 10-inch skillet. Add potatoes, a little at a time. When potatoes are halfway cooked, add onion. Keep cooking and turning potatoes until tender, about 15 minutes. Do not brown. Drain oil, leaving film of oil in bottom of skillet. Add salt to taste to potatoes.

In large bowl, beat eggs, then mix with potatoes and onion in skillet and spread evenly with spatula. Reduce heat and cook about 2 minutes. Cover omelet with inverted plate same size as skillet and flip over omelet, then slide back into skillet. Cook 2 minutes on other side. Slide omelet back onto plate and cool.

Cut into 1-inch squares and arrange over bread squares. Top each with slice chorizo. Fasten with wood picks. Makes 36 to 40 appetizers. CLAMS FISHERMAN STYLE (Almejas a la Marinera)

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

Dash saffron

1/2 cup dry white wine

Pepper

1 tomato, chopped

2 pounds littleneck clams

Chopped parsley

Heat oil in saucepan. Add garlic, saffron, wine, pepper to taste and tomato. Bring to boil. Add clams. Cover saucepan and cook until clams open. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Makes 6 servings. FRIED SQUID RINGS (Calamares Fritos)

2 pounds squid, cleaned and cut into 1/4-inch rings

1 cup milk

1 cup flour

2 cups olive oil

Salt

Soak squid rings in milk a few minutes. Drain and dip squid in flour. Heat oil in large skillet until hot. Drop squid rings into hot oil, a few at a time, and cook until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Makes 6 to 12 servings. ROASTED RED PEPPERS (Pimientos Asados)

6 large sweet red peppers

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

6 cloves garlic, mashed

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Cook peppers on grill or under broiler a few inches from source of heat until peppers char on all sides, turning with tongs. Wrap peppers loosely in foil and let stand 1 hour to soften peel.

Remove from foil and peel peppers, reserving any juices. Arrange peppers on platter and add salt and pepper to taste. Heat olive oil in skillet. Add garlic and brown. Discard garlic and pour oil over peppers. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings. ASPARAGUS MADRID-STYLE (Esparragos a la Madrilena)

2 pounds large asparagus

1/4 cup vinaigrette (oil-vinegar dressing)

1 hard-cooked egg, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped pimiento

Peel and rinse asparagus. Cook asparagus in small amount water until tender-crisp. Cool. Arrange on platter. Add vinaigrette and sprinkle with chopped egg and pimiento. Makes 6 servings. LOBSTER SALAD (Salpicon de Langosta)

2 large lobster tails or Maine lobsters, cooked

1/2 cup olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped pimiento

2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

Cut lobster meat into small chunks. Place in large bowl. Heat oil. Add onion and garlic and cook until tender, but not browned. Add vinegar and pimiento to oil mixture. Pour over lobster. Mix well. Cool. Sprinkle with chopped eggs. Serve cold. Makes 6 servings. STUFFED EGGS

1 (4 1/2-ounce) can tuna, drained

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 canned anchovies

4 hard-cooked eggs, halved

Salt, pepper

8 thin strips canned pimiento

Combine tuna, mayonnaise, cayenne pepper, anchovies and yolks from hard-cooked eggs in bowl. Mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon tuna mixture back into hard-cooked egg cavities, mounding slightly. Garnish each stuffed egg with pimiento strip. Makes 8 appetizers. FRIED SMELTS BARCELONA (Boquerones Fritos al Ajello)

6 smelts

Flour seasoned with salt and pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

Lemon wedges

Dredge smelts in seasoned flour, shaking off excess flour. Heat oil in large skillet. Add garlic and cook until golden.

Add floured smelts and cook over medium-high heat until smelts are golden brown on both sides, turning once. Remove from skillet and drain on paper towels. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 6 servings. SCRATCH CREAMED OLIVE PASTE AND BLUE CHEESE CANAPES

1/4 pound pitted cured black olives

1 large clove garlic

2 tablespoons pine nuts or almonds

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 to 1/2 pound blue cheese

Endive leaves

1 tablespoon crumbled blue cheese

Italian parsley sprigs

Place olives, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and blue cheese in blender container and process until chopped as finely as possible. Pack into crock and chill. Arrange endive leaves around cheese mixture. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese and garnish with Italian parsley. Makes 12 servings. COPA DE ORO CHICKEN AND BLACK BEAN SOPAS

Prepared corn tortilla masa dough for 4 tortillas

Rendered duck or chicken fat or lard

Black Bean Puree

1 cup cooked, shredded chicken

1 cup Tequila Chipotle Sauce

1/2 cup finely julienned radicchio or red cabbage

1/2 cup finely julienned romaine lettuce

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar

1/4 cup sour cream

1/4 cup grated Cotija cheese, Parmesan or white Cheddar

1/4 cup salsa

Cilantro leaves

Divide masa into 4 balls size of golf balls. Place each ball between 2 pieces wax paper and press into flat disks about 1/4 inch thick and 2 inches in diameter. Heat skillet 30 seconds. Add enough rendered fat for deep-frying and heat. Add sopas and cook 30 seconds on both sides. While still warm, pinch edges, forming lip. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Drain all but 1/4 cup rendered fat and heat until hot, reserving removed fat for future use. Top sopas with Black Bean Puree. Place filled sopas in hot oil and cook 10 seconds. Remove with slotted spatula and drain on paper towels.

Place sopas on serving platter or tray. Top each filled sopas with 1 tablespoon chicken. Top each with 1 tablespoon Tequila Chipotle Sauce. Combine radicchio and romaine lettuces in small bowl and add Sherry vinegar. Toss. Top sopas with seasoned lettuces. Top lettuces with dollop sour cream and cheese. Ladle additional cheese around sopes. Garnish with cilantro leaves. Makes 4 servings. Black Bean Puree

2 cups black beans

1 talbespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon ground oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon chili powder

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup rendered duck or chicken fat or lard

Place beans in heavy saucepan. Add enough water to cover 1 inch above level of beans. Add garlic, oregano, cumin and chili powder. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer over medium heat until beans are tender, about 1 hour, adding boiling water as needed to keep beans covered.

Mash beans or puree in blender or food processor until coarsely chopped. Use as much as is needed for each recipe. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat rendered fat in skillet and add beans. Heat through. Any remaining beans may be frozen until needed. Tequila Chipotle Sauce

2 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/4 large onion, minced

1/4 teaspoon mashed garlic

1/4 cup tequila

1/8 cup chile puree

1 tablespoon chipotle or other chile puree or paste

1/2 teaspoon ground oregano

1/8 cup tomato paste

2 quarts duck or chicken stock

1 teaspoon arrowroot

2 teaspoons water

Heat oil in large skillet. Add shallots, onion and garlic and saute until onion is tender. Add tequila and allow to flame. Cook until flames die down. Add chile puree and and chipotle stir 1 minute. Add oregano, tomato paste and duck stock. Simmer over medium heat 30 minutes. Mix arrowroot with water until smooth. Stir into pan liquid and simmer until thickened and shiny. Strain.

Note: Prepared masa should be purchased at tortilleria or wherever fresh tortillas are made. Chiles and other Mexican ingredients can be found at most Mexican grocery stores.