Montreal’s Rue St. Denis Storekeepers Thriving

Rue St. Denis is one of Montreal’s fastest-growing shopping streets. In the last five years, more than 100 new boutiques and shops have opened along this mile-long commercial showplace.

The stores occupy the first and second floors of Georgian and Victorian buildings, which a century ago were the homes of Montreal’s wealthy and fashionable citizenry. Storefronts are continually redecorated and new businesses move in frequently. Change occurs so quickly, in fact, that some Montrealers visit the street weekly to keep up with developments.

The street runs through one of Montreal’s more bohemian areas, stretching between Laurier and Ste. Catherine, and has two distinct sections. Upper Rue St. Denis, between St. Louis Square (just north of Sherbrooke Street) and Mount Royal Avenue, has an elegant tone and some of the best shops. Lower St. Denis Street, between Sherbrooke and Ste. Catherine, is funkier. Known since the 1920s as the Latin Quarter, this three-block stretch is near the University of Quebec. Many of its shops, bars and restaurants cater to students and are a bit boisterous, but usually inexpensive.

Cultural Institutions

Rue St. Denis is also headquarters to two Canadian cultural institutions. The presence of Les Grand Ballets Canadiens and Theatre du Rideau Vert establishes the street’s ambiance by attracting artists, intellectuals and professionals. You’ll find an abundance of cafes and bistros where people gather for victuals and conversation. Decor is trendy and tasteful, service is friendly and, best of all, these places are not expensive.

The shops of Rue St. Denis offer a broad range of wearables and housewares, interesting assortments of antique and high-tech furniture, arts and crafts, punk and posh attire.

Many of the shops feature locally designed and manufactured goods, so that even in stores selling ordinary hardware for the home, cooking utensils or office accessories, you’ll find items that have a slightly different, fresh look. Scattered among these Quebec-made goods are European imports, mostly French and handpicked by shopkeepers to provide their clientele with alternatives to the locally made merchandise. The Canadian dollar isn’t particularly strong, so importers are usually cost-conscious in their product selections. With American dollars, you can get some great buys.

One store where this is particularly true is Arthur Quentin Antiquities at 3960 Rue St. Denis. While the store does offer antique items (mostly Canadian country), there are also samples of contemporary home accessories, mostly with an old-fashioned air about them. The emphasis is on good quality at reasonable prices. Look especially at the French imported tableware. It is simple in line, but comes in an array of colors: aqua, yellow, sky blue, gray, pink and beige to be mixed or matched (plates, $6.75; cups and saucers, $8.25; serving pieces, $7.50 to $27).

Pink Enamel Trivets

There are enamel trivets in bright pink ($25), with matching serving trays ($10-15). Quentin’s selection of goods includes personal items, such as umbrellas with detailed duck head handles out of brass ($80), and leather items ranging from wallets ($28) to suitcases ($220 for carry-on size; $350, large size). Desk accessories include brass rulers ($3.50), and fountain pens ($29 and up), desk lamps with green glass shades and an admirable supply of writing papers.

Arthur Quentin is one of the oldest of the new boutiques on Rue St. Denis. The shop was opened in 1976 by Marise Cantin, and was so successful that a second store, Bleu Nuit, at 3919 Rue St. Denis, was opened four years later. Bleu Nuit is a haven for bedding and bath buffs. The shop’s fluffy lightweight-but-warm comforters are encased in satin-smooth French sheeting (about $100, twin size). Bath accessories include mustache trimmers ($25) and combs crafted of horn ($10-30). For children, there are cuddly terry cloth robes ($35-50).

Fine Quebec decorative handicrafts are the specialty at Metamorphose (4012 Rue St. Denis). With many one-of-a-kind items, the store’s stock changes frequently. On display are usually several tapestries, often abstract or geometric in design, and other weavings (prices range from $400 up). There are pewter serving pieces for the table (from $80). Assorted local pottery, woodcarvings, enameled jewelry and batik complete the collection. The work is of superior quality and worth a look.

Rue St. Denis is so trendy that even the antique stores reflect what has newly returned to vogue. Several years ago, much of the merchandise sold at Tango might have been called junk. It is now Art Deco and very much a la mode. Tango, at 3903 Rue St. Denis, has created an attention-getting setting for recycled period items. A three-story pink stucco building houses this array of furniture and objets d’art.

Two Rue St. Denis shops specialize in Tiffany and other leaded-glass lamps. Kaleidoscope (3842 Rue St. Denis) has an expensive selection, highlighted by owner Claude Dufour’s $35,000 signed Tiffany lamp. He’s holding that one in his private collection, but others are for sale.

Vitraux Arc En Ciel, at 3910, sells leaded lamps, as well as antique Canadian country furniture, much of it rustic and rough-hewn. Prices for the lamps are comparatively reasonable. A lamp shade of colored glass with lace-like leading sells for about $135, larger shades with good detail and in good condition are $400 and up. Copies and restored pieces are included in the collection.

Ultra-Modern Furniture

At the opposite end of the Rue St. Denis style spectrum is the ultra-modern, sleek and high-tech furniture at Diversions (4361 Rue St. Denis) and the contemporary jewelry and personal accessories at Voyeur (3844 Rue St. Denis). Voyeur has one of the most varied and complete selections of watches you’ll find under one roof, anywhere. The collection goes beyond the Swatches, Piagets (both of which are included) and other brand names. There are also inexpensive copies of designer timepieces ($300-$500) and their own assortment of Space Age styles ($800-$3,000). You’ll also find lightweight carrying bags shaped like heavyweight rocks and bricks ($40 and up), and the selection of high-fashion pens rivals the watch collection in variety.

Rue St. Denis abounds in wearables, ranging from the totally trendy look that lasts for one season, to more durable styles that can be seasoned with up-to-date accessories. Boutique Eugene Marsais, at 3889 Rue St. Denis, features Montreal designers. The shop’s decor, almost Victorian, is an interesting contrast to its contents, which include lots of mix-and-match items in the current crop of shocking colors--sizzling pinks, scorching oranges and electrifying yellows.

Designer names include Susan Canon (cotton interchangeable suit elements, including short jackets, hip-length jackets, balloon pants and skirts, $45-$90), Geraldine Peterson (two-piece suits in contrasting turquoise and yellow, around $160 for the ensemble), Phillipe Ronsard (pant and short suits in large, leafy, tropical prints, about $80 per ensemble). The clothes are designed for comfort and ease. In addition to the cottons, there are silk-like polyesters in a more conservative color selection. These are great for travel.

On the more conservative end of the scale, Creations Ginette Gagnon, 3883 Rue St. Denis, offers fashions that will carry a working woman through the day’s business activities and on into evening. Outfits are built to individual tastes out of well-tailored, smartly lined elements, mostly made from all-natural cottons, silks and wools. The line is designed entirely by Ginette Gagnon, and sold only at her boutique. You won’t find these clothes sitting at the next desk, or two rows in front of you. Per item, styles cost $90 and up.

Shopping Rue St. Denis is pure pleasure. Salespeople are friendly, and there is little pressure or bustle. You can enjoy your leisurely pace even more by stopping along the way at one of the little cafes. That’s the way the Montrealers do it.

Prices in this article reflect the rate of exchange at the time of writing.