Say Adieu to Inexpensive French Wines : But Some Will Remain Available at Low Prices, Exporter Says

The era of fine bottles of French wine at bargain basement prices, now hampered by a 30% increase in the value of the French franc, is quickly coming to an end.

It was nice while it lasted. A strong dollar, a slackening worldwide wine demand, universal over-production and the gray market for wine placed some of France’s finest labels on American tables at tabs so low vintners on both sides of the Atlantic called them “giveaways.” Indeed, prices bottomed to the point that some producers were accused of wine dumping.

Consumers still thirsting for their favorite French bottles will now have to pay two to three times as much for the same wine. California vintners will not shed a tear as they welcome new and old buyers at prices now deemed to be reasonable.

Flexing Marketplace Muscle

Apparently, credentialed Bordeaux and Burgundy estate growers are not worried. Confident after a succession of fine vintages, like 1981, 1982, 1983 and the recent 1985, they are flexing marketplace muscle in an attempt to seize any economic advantage in selling their wines at soaring prices. Even the excessively popular Pouilly Fuisse, humbly and justly reduced to a low tab of $4 to $5, is moving up to an incredible $15- to $20-range.

Jean Lou Nicolas, who with brother Terry directs House of Nicolas, one of France’s largest wine retail and export firms, says Americans will still be able to drink good, sound, inexpensive French wine.

“Unlike earlier increased price cycles,” he said, “French vintners will not be as foolish or greedy so as to price themselves off American tables. We at Nicolas are still smarting from severe financial losses sustained when French wines became so expensive that even the affluent disdained them.

“It will be different now,” he continued, “since our firm as well as others will provide not only desirable vintage estate wines, but will concentrate greatly on simple, straightforward generic branded bottles. Typical will be those wines finished and made by shippers who have acquired exclusive brands and/or the total production of an esteemed grower. These will be exclusives that we can offer at controlled, attractive prices.”

12 Million Bottles Stored

At his huge cellars, capable of storing 12 million bottles, at Charenton on the eastern edge of Paris, Nicolas attempted to prove his point. There, in state-of-the-art wine-making and laboratory facilities, he offered two blended wines for the pleasing price of $2.99 under the Nicolas brand name of Canteval.

Canteval white is like a fruity generic California-style Chablis, emphasizing freshness and acidity. It is made from South of France grapes, Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc and Melon. It is pleasant drinking, especially considering the price.

The red also is easy to drink and designed for today’s consumption. It is spicy and peppery and suggests a kind of cooked taste, perhaps from very ripe fruit, and offers a pleasant, almost strawberry-like Beaujolais aroma. It is a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache grapes. For spring and summer drinking, a slight chill would not hurt.

Stepping up in class is Nicolas, Vouvray, 1985, at $4.99. Here is a fragrant, slightly sweet wine that will do well either as a casual aperitif or for summer outdoor picnicking. Coming from a successful vintage, this Vouvray will surely be attractive to tasters with a sweet tooth.

Continuing the low-price theme, Nicolas is especially high on his Reserve de la Maison, Nicolas wines, which are several quality steps above Canteval. This 1985 version, soon to be released at $7.99, carries the designation of Chardonnay on the label. It is a nicely blended wine from St. Veran. To enjoy its clean, slightly steely, full flavor, drink early. The wine is not intended for and won’t benefit from more than a year or so of aging.

The red, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, is showing well because of the fine quality of the 1985 vintage. Also at $7.99, it shows a violet-like nose as well as more than decent flavor with a short, not-yet-developed finish. It has an ability to age, but not for long. A good bet for early consumption.

A Beaujolais Villages, 1985, is outstanding with clean Beaujolais fruit and flavor. It is spicy and even a bit chewy. Apparently from a good vintage, its fresh clean nose and taste will make good summer drinking at a cost not likely to exceed $5.

A Tradition Since 1822

It has been a tradition at Nicolas since 1822 not to concentrate solely on blends, exclusives and regional wines. At its “Caves” (cellars), a museum of “ancient” wines worthy of Louvre status is maintained, providing optimal storage conditions like the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Bin after bin, stretching to the length of a football field, is filled with vintage delights such as a Chateaux Lafite 1878, Mouton 1870, Margaux 1900, Palmer 1868 and Cos d’ Estournel 1869.

In another section, old Cognacs can be found dating to 1820, as well as Ports and Sherries from 1811 and 1805, and to my amazement, a few bottles labeled Xeres de la Frontera 1769. Remarkably, they appear to be in pristine condition, not always the case when wines are acquired at international auctions. Younger wines with famous names are also available in depth.

Two other exclusives are fine buys. A Cote du Rhone Red, Chateau du Bois de la Grande 1984, in a soft mellowing drink-now style, is amply laced with good aromas and spicy flavor. Dominated by the Petit Syrah and Grenache grapes, it is an unbelievable buy at $3.99.

More expensive at $8 and definitely worth it, is another Rhone, a Chateauneuf de Pape, Chateau des Fines Roches 1984, which is a lush, silky textured wine with heaps of flavor. There is ample tannin here for slow, long, complex development.

Nicolas believes that with these kinds of wines he can still entice Americans to French wines despite rising prices. He is assisted by the more than 400,000 gallons of wine that arrive daily by tank cars to be finished on his premises. despite having to supply the average French wine consumer who demands decent Nicolas wine at no more than a buck or three, he expects to be able to cope with America’s French wine lovers who will now make the same demands.