Authentic Tinsel at Variety Arts Center

“I’m so used to plastic versions of old-timey restaurants,” said my friend when we walked into the Variety Arts Center, 940 S. Figueroa St., (213) 623-9100, “that something this authentic doesn’t look real to me.” Indeed, the center, with its tinsely stage sets, show-biz memorabilia, old posters and autographed pictures is sort of startling in its authenticity. The salad bar is set up on a set from “Hello, Dolly!” and the backdrop from the Johnny Carson show overlooks the room.

What a room it is! The once-private club is now open to the public, but the dusty air still breathes the smell of greasepaint and you’d swear the waiters were aging, out-of work actors. The dark, plushy bar is a haven on a hot afternoon. You won’t leave raving about the food, but there’s a decent hamburger, the salad bar includes deviled eggs and all the usual stuff (do avoid the Cobb salad) and if you’re looking for an unusual and purely L.A. eating experience, this is where you’ll find it.