Town Shares Its Sea-Blessed History

Melancholy chanteys of sailors lost at sea are romantic tales as distant as “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner” from most of us. For the inhabitants of Beaufort, however, they are part of everyday life.

Young and old, natives and transplants alike have pride in the town’s heritage matched in few places in the world. Surveyed in 1713 and incorporated in 1722, Beaufort, which overlooks the celebrated Outer Banks, is the third-oldest town in North Carolina and is undergoing a significant revitalization. Its Historic Restoration, now in its 27th year, includes houses dating from 1767 as well as an Apothecary Shop, a Courthouse and an Old Jail.

In the Leffers House, which dates from 1778, the Beaufort Historical Weavers work on Mondays from 9 a.m. until noon. The women were happy to pass the shuttle to me during my visit while they spun a yarn about the cottage’s resident infant ghost.

As the tale drew to a close, one of the weavers opened the door to the attic to lead me up, and the distant, haunting cry of a baby brought goose flesh to my spine! I must admit that while my guide continued her exposition in the attic, I was distractedly searching the crannies for the hidden ghost-child.

English Bus Tour

A treat not to be missed during summer is a tour in the Beaufort Historical Assn. double-decker English bus. This pilgrimage is charmingly narrated by the town’s resident historian and poet, Grayden Paul, who enlivens his commentary with legends about the sites you pass, such as that of the “Talking and Hanging Tree.”

There one of the three men ever hanged in Beaufort met his end, even though most residents were not convinced of his guilt. It was said by townsfolk for many years thereafter that one could tap on the old tree and ask, “What did they hang Drummert for?” and the tree would respond, “Nothing.”

Kathryn Cloud, president of the historical association, emphasizes that Old Beaufort is a restoration, not a reconstruction. It is open all year, Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For more information or special group tours, call (919) 728-5225.

Port in Many Storms

Overlooking the Shackelford Banks portion of Cape Lookout National Seashore, Beaufort from the beginning has been linked to the sea. It has been a fishing village and literally a “port in a storm” for seagoing vessels from pirate ships to whalers to modern luxury yachts and sailboats.

Appropriately, then, since 1975 Beaufort has been the home of the North Carolina Maritime Museum (formerly known as the Hampton Mariners’ Museum). The museum celebrated its 10th birthday by moving into a handsome new building whose interior resembles the hold of a great wooden ship.

More than 100,000 visitors annually take advantage of the museum’s programs, including a summer science school for children, a boat-building skills program, a traditional wooden boat show, coastal habitat field trips and numerous special programs.

Strange Seafood

One of the most popular offerings is the Strange Seafood Exhibition, held on the grounds of the Beaufort Historical Restoration the third Thursday of each August. One can sample and learn how to prepare such fare as bluefish flakes in dill, sea lettuce soup, octopus salad with mussel dressing, rock shrimp casserole and bluefish mousse accompanied by yaupon tea. (A cookbook is sold in the museum bookstore and on the exhibition grounds.)

The Strange Seafood Exhibition has become so popular in 10 years that a limit of 1,000 has been put on attendance. The 1,000 tickets go on sale in May, and may be reserved by writing to the N.C. Maritime Museum, 315 Front St., Beaufort, N.C. 28516, or telephoning (919) 728-7317.

An extension of the museum is across the street from the new building, where in the Watercraft Center, master boat builder Geoff Scofield builds and gives instructions on building traditional wooden boats.

Originally from England, where he grew up with boat building and boats in Wivenhoe and Leigh-on-Sea, Scofield apprenticed under the rules of the National Ship and Boatbuilders’ Federation and has managed and owned boat-building companies.

Scofield came to Beaufort in 1978 and while awaiting a break in the weather passed the time constructing a 12-foot dinghy at the museum. He returned to stay a year later, and began planning the museum’s first boat-building skills program, which was soon drawing students from all over the United States.

The first bed-and-breakfast to open among the historic homes of Beaufort was once the city’s “shotgun house” (circa 1854), a house with a center hallway running from the front door to the back--one could stand at the front door and aim a shotgun out the back door.

New York writer Muriel Resnik and her husband were smitten with the seaport village and, several thousand dollars and more than a year later, Shotgun House opened its doors to guests. Rates are $65 to $85 a night double in season, $60 to $80 off-season; phone (919) 728-6248.

The most recently opened is The Cedars, an elegant country inn (with a top-notch restaurant offering fine nouvelle cuisine) owned by two couples who met at a wake in New York and decided to come to Beaufort to build a boatyard. They acquired two adjoining historic properties instead of waterfront land, and the result was The Cedars, opened in May 1985. Suites and a large guest room with sitting room and bath run $78 to $92 double, Easter through Thanksgiving; $15 for a third person; phone (919) 728-7036.

Roslyn Ford fell in love with Beaufort in 1984. She decided to go house shopping while her husband and son went fishing, and the result was Belford House. Now hosted by Roslyn’s parents, guests enjoy a full breakfast and homey atmosphere, which includes the run of a downstairs parlor and front porch; $50 a night in season, $40 off-season, double. Call (919) 728-6031.

Named for Children

One of the town’s five small inns is owned and run by Beaufort natives Joyce and Ronald Mason, whose family grew up in their large historic home. Mason Manor hosts guests in rooms named for the children who used to occupy them; $40 to $50 a night double. Call (919) 728-4538.

Jim Prest returned to adopt his mother’s hometown when he restored Langdon House and turned it into a bed and breakfast. He enjoys catering to his guests’ individual tastes with such special treats as a trek to nearby Bird Shoals, topped off with a clambake with the fruits of the day’s digging; $65 to $85 per person a night, May through mid-November; $8 for a second person. Call (919) 728-5499.

For those who prefer the modern conveniences of private baths and spacious rooms supplied with refrigerators and remote-control TVs, yet enjoy the ambiance of a small inn, the solution is Beaufort’s new Inlet Inn. Opened in August, 1985 on the waterfront site of two previous hotels, the Inlet has architecture and furnishings echoing the Beaufort style of its two predecessors, Atlantic Inn and the original Inlet Inn.

Rooms in creamy pastels open onto private white-railed porches with comfortable rocking chairs. I found my balcony perfect for relaxing in the sea air while watching wild Outer Banks ponies graze among the sea oat-sprinkled dunes on Carrot Island just a stone’s throw away.

Continental breakfast, as well as wine and cheese each evening, is served in the two-story common room. From the upper level I enjoyed wandering out onto the widow’s walk to watch the maze of white masts bobbing gently in the sun-drenched harbor or savor a golden sunset casting its spell over the Outer Banks.

Romantic Jewel

Honeymooners and business folk, as well as vacationers, have already begun to discover this romantic yet functional jewel, which offers a small meeting room at the inn as well as a larger one nearby. Arrangements for dining can be made for groups or individuals at the Beaufort House restaurant across the street. Dinners at Beaufort House range from $6.95 for some seafood platters to $17.95 for two lobster tails or sirloin for two. Children’s menu available. Luncheon from $3.50 to $6.95.

Inlet Inn rates are $75 and $79 a night May through September, $10 for a third person; March through November, $44 to $69; December through February, $44 to $59. Price includes continental breakfast.

Many Beaufort residents were skeptical about the prospect of a large hotel shattering the serenity of their quiet waterfront village, but all seem pleased with the final product. Innkeeper Betty Shannon, longtime Beaufort resident who obviously enjoys her new position, is delighted to talk with visitors about Inlet Inn and its history, as well as her beloved town.

She advises that special treats await honeymooners, adding: “Even the cats think it’s the old inn.” For information or reservations, phone (919) 728-3600 or write to Inlet Inn, 601 Front St., Beaufort, N.C. 28516.