Fisherman’s Grill Is a Welcome Addition to La Jolla’s Eateries

Overheard at the new Fisherman’s Grill: “This is just what La Jolla needed to replace Anthony’s Seafood Grotto after they tore it down to build that big building.”

The woman who made this statement (between bites of a rather attractive shrimp Louie salad) had said a mouthful.

La Jolla, for all its restaurants, has suffered a steady erosion in the category of mid-priced, casual eateries ever since the recent building boom replaced small, older buildings with grand, new edifices that require massive rents. One of the more notable casualties was the Anthony’s that occupied a choice lot at Fay Avenue and Prospect Street. It was bulldozed to make room for another of those low-slung, self-consciously chic office buildings that have transformed the face of the coastal neighborhood.

The irony of the situation is that Fisherman’s Grill occupies a substantial portion of a new, low-slung and ever-so-chic office building. The decor is pretty in a modern and rather high-tech way, and the place has a noise level close to that of an old-fashioned train station at rush hour. But please note that it is stylish and comfortable, and that the noise lends to the atmosphere; sometimes it is pleasant to eat in a restaurant that is lively and animated.

In keeping with the prettiness and liveliness is one of the most cleverly constructed menus of recent memory. This was written by a superbly talented threesome that includes Jack Monaco and Nita Steinberg in management, and San Diego native Greg Young as chef. All three held major positions with the Piret’s chain at one time or another. Steinberg also conceived and designed the likable but star-crossed Vittorio’s, the Del Mar trattoria that opened to applause in 1983 but collapsed in 1984 when the demise of the J. David (Jerry) Dominelli empire swept away Vittorio’s backers--Nancy Hoover and George Mitrovich.

This is quite a menu, one that is brilliant in the way it recognizes exactly what the public wants. It is trendy and nouvelle at the edges, but the core is solidly American in its sections respectively devoted to shellfish cocktails, chowders, seafood salads, deep-fried seafoods, and sandwiches packed with the riches of the briny deep. Steinberg et al ., facing facts like few modern restaurateurs do, chose to garnish the plates with the simple foods that Americans like, namely cole slaw, french fries and batter-fried onion rings. There are a few au courant side dishes available, such as mesquite-grilled green onions and eggplant (both refer to the moment’s hottest trend, the contemporary interpretation of New Mexican cooking), but it is difficult to take them seriously in this setting. One can take the prices quite seriously, though; by taking advantage of the large entree portions and avoiding appetizers and desserts, a pair of guests can enjoy a meal and a glass of wine for as little as $20.

Having granted the genius of the menu, it also is necessary to point out that the kitchen sometimes fails in the execution of these dishes, an unsettling situation in light of the fact that most of them are quite easy to prepare. Take as evidence the “fried jumbo prawns,” shrimpy-sized crustaceans that denied the bulk suggested by the menu description. More disquieting than the David-proportioned size of these purported Goliaths were the beer batter sheaths in which they arrived--tough, greasy shells of batter that evidently had been fried in oil that was either old, too cool or (worse) both. French fries and onion rings served at this meal also evidenced an acquaintance with cooking oil that had descended from the realm of respectability. If batter-fried shrimp (and oysters, clams, calamari and fish filets) are to be the centerpiece of a menu, they have to be dipped in a good batter, and the oil has to be changed frequently. Nothing less will do.

The appetizer list is attractive, but be warned that since most offerings are shellfish, the prices are high, and indulgence in this department can raise the dinner check significantly. The oyster shooters with pepper vodka (at $1.75 a throw) sound interesting; the broiled “fisherman’s” oysters, a house specialty, are interesting, since they include a smidgen of Louisiana-style smoked ham as flavoring for the seasoned bread crumb topping. The bivalves in question were tiny, however, and a serving of six ran $7.75. Vastly better was a dish of shrimp and scallops sauteed with garlic and chunks of feta cheese and fresh tomato; rich and savory, it easily doubled as an entree, especially when accompanied by chunks of the restaurant’s excellent sourdough bread.

The soup list includes both New England and Manhattan clam chowders. The New England, with its delicately creamed broth, was both mannered and demure, but it lacked potency. A sprinkling of black pepper helped, but why was there no salt pork evident in the soup?

The Grand Central oyster chowder was a revelation of goodness, however, and one that may have transcended the famous soups prepared at New York’s venerable Grand Central Station Oyster Bar. Prepared freshly to order, it contained fat oysters plumped in a steamy bath of oyster liquor and light cream, the flavor considerably highlighted by sauteed shallots and fennel, with accents of Tabasco and Worcestershire sauces added as totally applaudable fillips.

The salads run to choices of shrimp or crab Louie, as well as an avocado stuffed with scallop ceviche, and a chilled angel hair pasta of excellent quality topped with bites of sauteed shark. This last is made agreeably Oriental by the addition of sesame oil and seeds.

Creativity rears its lovely head in the sandwich listing, which includes pretty sandwiches filled variously with lobster, smoked albacore, fried oysters or shrimp Louie. Much ado is made of the Nita burger (named for the eponymous Nita Steinberg), a good burger that nonetheless should be ignored in favor of the seafood.

A daily specials list supplements the standing menu and good, substantial dishes are found here, including five or six fish of the day. The grilled monk fish, basted with garlic-lime butter, tasted good, but was modest in portion; the “squaw candy,” a treatment of king salmon purportedly borrowed from the cooking of Washington State-area Indians, was exquisite, the wonderfully moist fish topped with sweet red onions caramelized in brown sugar.

Several desserts are offered, but the one that really justifies the investment in calories is the chewy brownie topped with hot fudge and vanilla ice cream.

Fisherman’s Grill will be joined in September by a more elaborate neighbor, Vic’s, which will be under the same management. Featuring an Eastern-style steak house menu and atmosphere, it will be the building’s upscale restaurant tenant.

FISHERMAN’S GRILL

7825 Fay Ave., La Jolla

456-3733

Lunch and dinner served 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner served 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Credit cards accepted.