Sebastiani Uncorks a New Career : Veteran Wine Maker to Launch a New Label on His Own

“In 1985, no one in his right mind, least of all me, would have predicted that in 1986 I would be fired as president of the family winery, Sebastiani Vineyards, and within eight short months I would be making and marketing wine under my own label,” Sam Sebastiani mused without a trace of bitterness as he and his wife Vicki geared up for the launching of their new label Sam Sebastiani Wines.

“I am delighted to be back in the saddle again at the helm of my own vineyards,” Sebastiani said, “and I expect to be making fine wine for a long time to come, hopefully as long as the family enterprise, which was established in 1904. While all the problems between my mother, Sylvia, and myself are not as yet resolved we are talking to one another and I bear her no grudge for the ouster. We have reached an agreement concerning the family name for use on my label. I wish all the best for the continued success of my mother and Sebastiani Vineyards.”

Questioned His Future

Fortunately for all the Sebastianis, a media-predicted family feud over the firing did not materialize. Initially stung by his ouster, Sam questioned whether he would even remain in the wine business.

“I thought I might sell country real estate,” he laughed, “but . . . I believed the new ‘better varietals, premium wine’ direction I launched for the winery was beginning to pay off.”

After the death in 1980 of Sam’s father, wine patriarch August, Sebastiani Winery entered a financial slump. With considerable expensive equipment retooling, Sam brought the winery to better long-term financial prospects and built an image emphasizing quality rather than quantity of wine. However his mother and other family members became concerned over costly transition expenditures estimated at $6.5 million; hence, a quick change in management.

“In some ways my family did me a favor,” Sam noted, “for now I can make wines in my own style without fear of frustrating objections and criticism. After all, I took Sebastiani from a volume jug wine position to one where we were competing with the best of California premiums, winning as many as 58 medals at American wine competitions. The 1986 marks my 20th consecutive harvest, and through these many years I have tried to make the best without overly worrying about the cost. I always figured that if my wines were good, somehow the cost would take care of itself.”

Differences in Technique

Perhaps that attitude illustrates best the differences in management technique between Sam and his dad, who was renowned for his country image of doing business in bib overalls and not wasting money on frills or expensive modernizing. Some industry observers said there was no marketing program during August’s reign but they were wrong. He was the marketing program and was very effective in exploiting his country image and the sale of millions of cases of pleasing, inexpensive jug wine.

Only 39 when appointed president of Sebastiani Winery, Sam was often described as “the yuppie vintner” as he seemed to know what his generation wanted in the way of wine. He earned a masters degree in business administration at the University of Santa Clara and was determined to bring the winery the kind of academic professional business principles that his father often described as “highfalutin.”

“Highfalutin or not,” Sam said, “I expect to make my winery a true boutique family winery, perhaps with a limit of 50,000 cases. My first year will see no more than 9,000 to 10,000 cases. I do not have to be a ‘highfalutin’ marketing genius as I am relying on the simple and best expediency: good taste. Right after I took over Sebastiani Winery I planned a premium major vineyard, the Eagle, to demonstrate that as a family winery we were operating in a corporate world and that we are an endangered species.”

Sam’s debut releases, Sam J. Sebastiani, Sauvignon Blanc, 1985, and Cabernet Sauvignon, 1983, reflect what Sam does best. Acting like a Burgundian negociant , he gathered excellent grapes in limited quantities from friendly vintners, who instantly made them available to him. He has taken a little from here and a little from there to fashion wines decidedly different from those of the family.

“I intend to create unique styles of wine that express the finest characteristics of each appellation I use. I will produce only three wines, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, all to be made in limited quantities from grapes grown in Sonoma and Napa counties.”

The ’85 Sauvignon Blanc is a full-flavored, big, luscious wine showing length, depth and early complexity. The Sauvignon Blanc bigness and richness could well double as a Chardonnay and can easily be partnered with richly sauced fish and even veal dishes. As a premiere it is a winner.

To make the wine, Sam aged the 35% portion of Napa grapes from Monticello Vineyards for five months in 60-gallon French oak barrels. He kept the Sonoma portion--22% from Murphy Ranch in Alexander Valley and 43% from Hood Vineyards in upper Sonoma Valley--in stainless steel to retain varietal fruitiness. Blending the two apparently makes a richer, rounder wine that has ample breadth for its non-intrusive 13.4% alcohol. Also helpful was the extreme ripeness of the grapes from a fine year in both counties. Priced at $10, there are slightly more than 7,000 cases available.

More Limited Supply

In more limited supply--2,287 cases--the ’83 Cabernet sports a cherry-style aroma and flavor in a medium but tight structure with generous, early elegance. A soft roundness, plus an agreeable, pleasant taste that is not aggressive with tannin, should make the wine pleasing for today’s drinking. Three to four more years of cellaring will help without the need for additional aging.

The wines represent a blend of Cabernet and Merlot grapes from Sonoma’s Alexander Valley and Ken Laird’s State Lane Vineyards in the Napa Valley. The Sonoma portion was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels and fined with egg whites. Sam believes it contributes fruity varietal aromas and soft round flavors while the Napa portion, aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, provides structure, durability and richness. Priced at $15 and notwithstanding 13.8% alcohol, the wine is appealing and shows the kind of elegance that has always been a target for Sam.

A better and more elegant example of his Cabernet style is Cabernet, 1985, with grapes from Sonoma and Napa counties and the addition of 7% Merlot. A portion of the blend is from the Wildwood Vineyard, a choice 600-acreage piece in Sonoma, with the balance from State Lane Vineyards in Napa.

This is a big, fragrant, intensely-flavored, cherry-style wine full of early charm and a fruity taste characterized by the superb 1985 vintage. Very forward in taste with plum and black cherry accents, the wine offers extraordinary flavor and a magnificent future. An exceptional wine worth waiting for, it should stamp Sam not only as a fine wine maker but as a capable grape selector as well. It will be released in 1988 after aging 14 to 16 months in French oak at Rambauer Winery.

Next year, the 1984 will be released. It displays more of a plum-like character but without the charm of the 1985 or the firmness of structure of the 1983. At the moment, it appears dull and clumsy, which may change as the wine gains greater cellar aging. Grapes are from the same vineyards as the 1985 and no doubt reflect the difference in vintages.

Essential to Sam is the continuity of style for both his current and later wines, which is why he intends to purchase grapes from the same vineyards. At the moment he owns only eight acres of his own, which are leased to his mother until 1995. For the next harvest or two he will be crushing grapes and making wine at other leased facilities, but within two years he expects to build an Italian villa-style winery in the Sonoma Valley at Carneros.