Victory Is Sweet at L.A. County Fair : Vintners Offer a Host of Exceptional Meal’s-End Wines

An interesting 50-year-old feature of the Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition that is pleasing to consumers is the large number of dry and sweet wines, which normally do not get the praise and attention reserved for major California varietals like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Traditionally, the fair includes the judging of simple fruit wines, sparklers, young brandies, ports and Sherries.

A magnificent fruit wine, Bargetto’s Olallieberry is a classic case in point. It features such outstanding lush fruit flavors that the four-member judging panel not only awarded it a Gold Medal but a Best of Class honor as well. The panel’s enthusiasm spilled over to the other 36 judges, who agreed it was the finest fruit wine tasted in years. The wine can best be enjoyed either as an aperitif or with a non-chocolate dessert. The only other Gold Medal awarded for fruit wines also was given to Bargetto for Raspberry.

There were a host of exceptional sweet white wine winners that are first rate for meal’s end. In the Very Sweet Gewurztraminer Class with residual sugars ranging from 5% to 11%, a Gold Medal was given to an outstanding choice, Navarro Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, 1985. This Mendocino County winery has done well with this grape in recent years, and a wine that may be just as good is its silver medalist, Late Harvest, Cluster Select, Gewurztraminer, 1985, with sugar in excess of 11%. Both wines are handsome desert choices.

For Casual Sipping

Gewurztraminer in the 1% to 5% residual sugar class generally does well for casual sipping, especially for those who prefer less concentration of sugar. Try two gold medalists, Charles Krug, 1984, and Gallo, Reserve Cellars, 1984, which will offer a luscious but moderately intense, lighter, sweet taste.

Another solid sweet choice for devotees of Sauvignon Blanc and French-styled Sauternes, try gold medalist Windsor Vineyards, Select Late Harvest, Alexander Valley, 1984. The term select not only means selected bunches of grapes, but also suggests that the wine may have sustained noble rot not unlike that of Sauternes.

Others may prefer the taste of Johannisberg Riesling with sugars ranging from 1% to 5%. Five gold medalists were selected: St. Francis Winery, 1985; Rodney Strong Vineyards, Le Baron, 1984; Ballard Canyon, 1985; Konocti, Lake County, White Riesling, 1985, and Santa Ynez, Reserve de Cave. For Johannisberg Riesling, Late Harvest, in the 1% to 11% range, Bargetto, Late Harvest, 1984, and Kenwood, Estate Grown Late Harvest, 1985, were both gold medalists. To find two Gold Medal winners in only 11 entries speaks well for the wines but indicates dwindling popularity.

Another entry in the Johannisberg Riesling class was Select Late Harvest with sugars up to 18%. A relatively new winery, Gabriele Y Caroline, Monterey Late Harvest, 1982, was the winner.

Better yet was the Select Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling class of 18% sugar or more. There were only five entries but two gold medalists: Joseph Phelps, Special Select Late Harvest, 1983, and Franciscan Vineyards, Select Late Harvest, 1983. These are the kinds of wines that can be purchased in half bottles since only an ounce or two is necessary to enjoy the sweet concentration and intensity. I prefer to enjoy these wines simply as a dessert and with nothing else.

In the high-volume categories for sweeter whites, first awards are given in lieu of medals. The wines are likely to be in large supply and inexpensive. For Gewurztraminer up to 5% sugar, Grande Cru Vineyards, Fox Hollow, 1985, received a First Award. First Awards were also given in the Johannisberg Riesling up to 5% sugar class, with only two entries, to Giumarra, Breckenridge, Non-Vintage, and Windsor, Sonoma County, 1985.

If Chardonnay is your palate’s fancy, there are sweet-styled versions in the category of Late Harvest Chardonnay. Two entries received a Silver and Bronze medal, respectively: Milano, Sonoma Chardonnay, 1983, and Callaway, Late Harvest. These are more difficult to produce in a late-harvest style than either Gewurztraminers or Riesling.

Sweet Muscat Canelli is a class that always features well-made Muscat-styled wines, with a sweet delicate taste that appeals to just about every palate, from the seasoned to the neophyte. Gold medalists were Morris Hoaglund, Muscat Canelli, 1985, and Stevenot, San Luis Obispo, 1985.

The other winners also are worthy of a taste, including silver medalist Jekel, Monterey, 1984, and bronze medalists Fetzer, Lake County, 1985; Rapazzini, 1985; St. Francis, 1985, and Windsor, Late Harvest, Alexander Valley, 1985.

Chenin Blanc, once one of California’s most popular wines, has lost some of its appeal except for the sweeter-styled variety. In the class of Chenin Blanc 1% to 5% sugar, there were an unusual number of Gold Medals awarded out of 53 entries. Generally, these wines are ready to drink and are likely to be found in the $5 to $7 range. Gold medalists are Christian Brothers, Napa Valley, 1985; Fetzer, Mendocino, 1985; Granite Springs, El Dorado, 1985; Husch, La Ribera, 1985; Parducci, 1985; Stearns Wharf, 1985; Trentadue, Alexander Valley, 1985, and Warner West, 1985.

For bigger-structured, sweet red wine styling, Zinfandel, Late Harvest still remains a favorite. The only problem here is to drink in extreme moderation because of higher alcohol, much like a fortified wine. Gold medalists are Pesenti, Ruby, 1983, and Shenandoah, Fiddle Town, 1983.

In the fortified wine categories the entries have dropped considerably because of America’s fading interest. Nonetheless, the wines with better grapes and technology are probably better than ever. An exciting bottle in the Muscatel Black or Red class was given a coveted Best of Class honor. Veteran fair judges agreed that gold medalist Quady Elysium, Black Muscat, 1985, may have been one of the fair’s best ever.

A Bronze Medal was given to Shenandoah, Black Muscat, 1984. Vintage Port was won by Christian Brothers, 1980, followed by silver medalist Beringer, Cabernet Sauvignon Port, 1983, and Winterbrook Vineyards, Vintage Port, 1980. The ports are generally made in the same style from year to year and are usually ready for drinking.

Ask About Competition Wine

E. & J. Gallo was a winner in the Port class. When buying the wine be sure to ask whether it is the same as in the competition. The same inquiry should be made for the other winners, silver medalists, Christian Brothers, Ruby Port; Shenandoah Vineyards, Zinfandel Port, Lot 4, Anderson; followed by bronze medalist, Llords and Elwood, Ancient Proverb Port.

The Sherry classes saw few Gold Medal winners except for Medium Sherry won by perennial winner, Llords and Elwood, Dry Wit Sherry. Dry Sherry, with only nine entries, was won by silver medalist Buena Vista, Dry Sherry, followed by bronze medalist Cresta Blanca, Dry Watch, and Louis Martini, Dry Sherry. Sweet Sherry was won by silver medalist Llords and Elwood, Judge’s Secret, followed by bronze medalist Gallo, Livingston Cream Sherry; Louis Martini, Cream Sherry, and Windsor Vineyards, Cream Sherry.

For the first time, an Eau-de-Vie class was established. Eau-de-Vie is a generic French term for brandy or spirits. In this class, St. George Spirits won a Gold Medal for its Williams Pear, a pear distillate. The same firm received a Bronze Medal for another new class, Marc, a spirit distilled from pomace, as is done in Burgundy. This is a category that is expected in the next several years to increase.

Sparkling wines found several gold medalists: Corbett Canyon’s Shadow Creek, 1983, and a Best of Class winner for Blanc de Noir. Drier is gold medalist John Culbertson for its Natural, 1983, in the Brut or Nature class. Both are made in the methode champenoise style.

Sweeter-styled sparkling wines made in the bulk process are gold medalists Lejon Brut, for sparklers up to 2 1/2% sugar and Andre Champagne for its White Champagne, which received a Gold Medal in the class of up to 4% sugar. The most fascinating sparkler in the delicate light style of Sparkling Muscat is Gold Medal winner Ballatore Champagne Cellars for its Spumante Ballatore.

For a complete list of all winners, send $3 to Wine Department, Los Angeles County Fair Assn., P.O. Box 2250, Pomona 91769.