Los Angeles Times Magazine Critics’ Choices for 1986 : WINNING WINES

Why a tasting of Merlot and Gewurztraminer? What’s wrong with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay? Everybody knows these two are the odds-on favorite best sellers all across the country.

Moreover, I remember a conversation I had with the director of one of the most famous first growths in Bordeaux 12 years ago about Merlot. “Merlot is a prostitute,” he had declared in answer to my question about the amount of Merlot in the vineyard of his chateau. “It promises everything, delivers nothing.” Then he added: “For a while, Merlot spread like a disease in the Haut-Medoc. Planting Merlot vines became a rage.”

Could that sudden increase in Merlot plantings, I wondered, have come about because Chateau Petrus, with its vineyard even then almost totally planted to Merlot, had become wine fashion’s darling? And because wine shops were already--as they still are--fetching top dollars for these wines, sometimes double or triple the price of Lafite and Mouton? All this in spite of the fact that, since it is an early bloomer, a whole vintage of Merlot might be wiped out by spring frosts?

In the United States, Merlot--and specifically Chateau Petrus--received its first boost of popularity from Henri Soule of New York’s Le Pavillon restaurant several decades ago. No one would contradict Soule’s recommendation of the wine he chose to accompany his food. His particular passion was the wines of Chateau Petrus, which are derived solely from Merlot grapes.

As late as 1970, there were only 236 acres of Merlot in California. Ten years later, the acreage was 2,743 acres.

The supple, silky softness of young Merlot wines with their undeniably appealing fragrance augurs well for American wine drinkers who like to purchase and pour. There may be loud disclaimers from traditionalists proud of the wines aging in their cellars, but most Americans pour their wines within a matter of days, or even hours after purchase. This “drinkability” is still the consumers’ first measure of judgment as they pass over those tannin-rough wines that will come around 10 years down the line--maybe.

To illustrate the quality California Merlots: I included in this year’s Times tasting the world’s most famous--and most expensive--wine of this grape, Chateau Petrus 1983, which currently sells for $225 per bottle. None of the tasters knew it was among the wines they were tasting. Only three of the tasters gave the Petrus a 17 or better evaluation; the rest rated it 14/20 and lower. None recognized it, including this reporter, who knew it was there but not where it was in the blind pourings. This clearly demonstrates the current level of California wine production at a time when French wine prices are soaring.

At some comparative tastings of Cabernet Sauvignons, the winners are often bold, high-profile wines that appear superior because of their elements of bouquet and body. At our Merlot tasting, many agreed that there were no “monster” wines. All were gentle, charming, with that essential element, “drinkability,” which explains their rising popularity.

A final fillip to our Merlot commentary: The French pronunciation of this elegant varietal is mair-lo , over the commonly heard murr-lo . But who is to worry when the taste is all that matters in the long run.

But the problem of pronunciation is a real bear to the producers of Gewurztraminer, and most wine makers dedicated to this Alsatian favorite agree that the name is the biggest stumbling block to its popularity in our country. Many customers are afraid of mispronouncing it; some just ask for “the wine with the funny name.”

Actually, it’s not all that difficult. Gewurz is the German word for “spicy” and is pronounced geh-VURTZ . That word became linked to the most ancient of vinifera, the Traminer (pronounced trah-MEE-nair ), brought to the Rhineland in the days of the Caesars. After years of cultivation, astute growers noticed that there were some vines of clonal superiority that produced berry clusters of incredible, even opulently fruity taste, which carried over into the wine, giving it a fabulous bouquet. That happened only when the clusters were vine ripened and began to take on a pinkish hue. Consequently, pickers and dedicated wine makers would almost sleep in the vineyards to get the grapes at that moment. Before then, the wine would be good, but not great; and if picked later, the acid ratio would plummet to nothingness, as well as acquire a nearly bitter aftertaste. More than a decade ago, French appellation controllers banned further plantations of the mere Traminer grape in favor of the superior Gewurztraminer vine. It’s still a temperamental species that requires careful attention. A shy-bearing early ripener, with cool-fermentation techniques it gives an irresistible bouquet. To me, a splendid vinification suggests the grapefruity taste that is characterisitc of the Asian, tropical fruit so beloved of the Chinese--litchi. In Alsace, the wine is always fermented to total dryness, but in California, most consumers and many wine makers think that an edge of sweetness makes the wine more delectable, and I agree.

But still there’s that stumbling block of the name. Several years ago, when Riesling sales were in a slump as well, Buena Vista Winery, with reserves of Gewurztraminer and Riesling, decided to blend the two together. The result was delicious. They gave the first 500-case-batch a proprietary name, “Spiceling.” It took off like gangbusters. Today, they make and sell more than 5,000 cases with each vintage, and a doubling of that quantity is in the works. Everybody can say “Spiceling.”

California Gewurztraminer has legions of fans who know how good it is. It’s best slightly chilled (don’t paralyze it) as an aperitif before dinner, or with almost anything from Kentucky Fried Chicken to lobster, sole or beef stew. To know it is to love it. Drink it young, when its fruity bouquet is at its strongest. It will keep with cool cellar aging, but it’s at its best within months of its first release.

The planting of Gewurztraminer vines has edged up from a mere 1% of new grafts in 1985 to 4% in 1986 (as opposed to a hefty 56% of new plantings of Chardonnay). Only 4,591 acres are planted to it in California, which is nothing compared to the 23,000 acres of Chardonnay, 43,496 acres of Chenin blanc or the mind-boggling 71,055 acres of nondescript French Colombard.

In the years ahead, be on the lookout for Gewurztraminer from Ventana Vineyards. California’s most dynamic vine grower, Doug Meador of Soledad in Monterey County, has solved the supposed “cyclical” nature of the vine and after 10 years of field work is beginning to produce from a clone that not only has more abundant yield but also no acid-dumping qualities at ripening time, and it still has all those wonderful, almost overwhelming fragrance qualities. The Times’ 13th annual wine tasting brought together a panel of wine professionals and connoisseurs to evaluate, in a blind tasting, leading examples of Merlot and Gewurztraminer. The wines were ranked on the standard 20-point scale. In addition to Los Angeles Times Magazine wine columnist Robert Lawrence Balzer, the experts included Dr. William Bond, neurologist, connoisseur; Charles Carpy, owner / partner, Freemark Abbey; Jill Davis, wine maker, Buena Vista Winery; John Giumarra Jr., Giumarra Vineyards; Alison Green, wine maker, Firestone Vineyard; Agustin Huneeus, president, Franciscan Vineyards; Robin Lail, owner, Napanook Vineyard; Ben Lane, Wine Futures Inc.; Steve MacRostie, wine maker, Hacienda Wine Cellars; Richard Maher, president, Fromm & Sichel; Dick Smothers, comedian, president, Vine Hill Wines; Jeremiah Tower, owner-chef, Stars Restaurant; Steve Wallace, wine merchant, and Eric Wente, president, Wente Bros. Winery. Best of the Class

Rated Highest in Their Categories Were These Merlot and Gewurztraminer Wines

MERLOT (29 wines tasted) Price Rating JAEGER INGLEWOOD VINEYARD 1981 NAPA VALLEY $12.75 16.1 Produced and bottled by Jaeger Family Vineyards, St. Helena. Rich, lovely bouquet, with hints of cassis, incense of oak in background, light tannin. MARKHAM 1983 NAPA VALLEY $10 16.1 Made and bottled by Markham Winery, St. Helena. Soft, well-made wine, pleasant berryness in rounded bouquet, subdued oak. NEWTON VINEYARD 1982 NAPA VALLEY $12.50 15.9 Produced and bottled by Newton Vineyard, St. Helena. Deep ruby color, full-flavored gentle varietal, touch of mint; good for aging. BOEGER 1983 EL DORADO $12.50 15.8 Produced and bottled by Boeger Winery, Placerville. Good fruity wine, suggesting pears; clean, well-balanced, fine claret. STERLING VINEYARDS 1982 NAPA VALLEY $11 15.8 Grown, produced and bottled by Sterling Vineyards, Calistoga. A full bouquet blending oak and fruit with rich intensity, velvet smooth. DUCKHORN 1984 NAPA VALLEY $16 15.7 Produced and bottled by Duckhorn Vineyards, St. Helena. A fine ruby, round, full flavors, rich depth; tannins suggest good aging. DUCKHORN-THREE PALMS VINEYARD 1984 NAPA VALLEY $18 15.6 Produced and bottled by Duckhorn Vineyards, St. Helena. A wine of great depth; rounding of oak pleasing. CLOS DU VAL 1982 NAPA VALLEY $12.50 15.5 Produced and bottled by Clos du Val Wine Co. Napa. A complex, delightful wine; full flavor, round, well-balanced. FRANCISCAN 1983 NAPA VALLEY $8.50 15.4 Produced and bottled by Franciscan Vineyards, Rutherford. A gentle varietal character, oak evident; spicy fruit, intriguing. STRATFORD 1983 CALIFORNIA $8.50 15.3 Made and bottled by Cartlidge, Moser & Forsyth, Calistoga. A lovely bouquet of mixed berry and vegetal scents; oak finish. PINE RIDGE 1983 NAPA VALLEY SELECTED CUVEE $13 15.1 Produced and bottled by Pine Ridge Winery, Yountville. A cedar-ish pungency of bouquet; rich, long flavors bring elegance. RUTHERFORD HILL 1982 NAPA VALLEY $11 15.0 Produced and bottled by Rutherford Hill Winery, Rutherford. A delicate berryness in this well-made wine; hints of violets. Alphabetical listing of others tasted: Buena Vista 1983 Carneros Private Reserve $14 Davis Bynum 1982 Sonoma County Reserve $12 Carneros Creek 1982 Napa Valley $10.50 Chateau Ste. Michelle Washington State $12.50 Chateau Petrus 1983 Pomerol $225 Clos du Bois 1984 Sonoma County $10.50 Firestone Vineyard 1982 Santa Ynez Valley $6.50 Geyser Peak 1983 Alexander Valley $8 Gundlach-Bundschu 1983 Sonoma Valley Rhinefarm Vineyards $12 Inglenook 1983 Napa Valley $11.50 Charles Krug 1982 Napa Valley $7.50 Louis M. Martini 1983 North Coast $6 Louis M. Martini 1982 Russian River $10 Santa Ynez Valley Winery 1982 $7.50 Sebastiani 1984 Sonoma-Mendocino $6.50 Shafer Vineyards 1984 Napa Valley $10 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1982 Napa Valley $13.50 GEWURZTRAMINER (37 wines tasted) Price Rating WENTE BROS. 1985 ARROYO SECO $7.50 16.8 Grown, produced and bottled by Wente Bros. Winery, Livermore. Engaging true varietal bouquet with tangy, grapefruit zing; refreshing. BUENA VISTA CARNEROS 1984 SONOMA COUNTY $7 16.0 Produced and bottled by Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma. Golden wine with flowery nose, sweet-edged flavors; well-balanced wine. FETZER 1985 CALIFORNIA $6 15.5 Produced and bottled by Fetzer Vineyards, Redwood Valley. Crisp, sweet-edged wine with intriguing litchi-nut tastes. INGLENOOK 1984 NAPA VALLEY $7.50 15.5 Produced and bottled by Inglenook Vineyards, Rutherford. Good varietal character; a wine in the Alsatian dry style; clean finesse. CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE 1984 WASHINGTON STATE $7.50 15.4 Vinted and bottled by Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, Wash. Pleasing, tart wine of opulent bouquet, with good varietal character. DELOACH VINEYARDS ESTATE-BOTTLED 1985 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY $7 15.4 Produced and bottled by DeLoach Vineyards, Santa Rosa. Crisp, lemony with a little spritz, sharp finish, slightly bitter. MONTEREY VINEYARD 1984 MONTEREY COUNTY $6 15.4 Produced and bottled by The Monterey Vineyard, Gonzales. Clean, straightforward varietal wine; good balance, smooth finish. PARDUCCI 1985 MENDOCINO COUNTY $7 15.4 Produced and bottled by Parducci Wine Cellars, Ukiah. Marvelous varietal character with the zest of grapefruit; crisp, balanced. J. PEDRONCELLI 1984 SONOMA COUNTY $5.50 15.3 Made and bottled by J. Pedroncelli Winery, Geyserville. Delicate litchi-nut tastes, in a silky-smooth, long and lovely wine. RODNEY STRONG 1985 SONOMA COUNTY $6.75 15.3 Produced and bottled by Rodney Strong Vineyards, Windsor. Good fruity bouquet in California sweet-edged style, with finesse. BARGETTO 1985 SANTA MARIA VALLEY $6.75 15.2 Produced and Bottled by Bargetto’s Santa Cruz Winery, Soquel. Easy sipping wine, with obvious residual sweetness; well-made. GIUMARRA VINEYARDS 1984 CENTRAL COAST $5 15.2 Produced and bottled by Giumarra Vineyards, Edison. Clean, good varietal wine with dry finish; excellent value. MONTICELLO 1984 NAPA VALLEY $7.50 15.2 Produced and bottled by Monticello Cellars, Napa. Clean, fruity wine, with forward zest, grapefruity tang and sweet finish. ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS 1985 ALEXANDER VALLEY $6.50 15.1 Produced and bottled by Alexander Valley Winery, Healdsburg. Clean, with spicy rose petal bouquet; flavorful and well balanced. PAT PAULSEN VINEYARDS 1984 SONOMA COUNTY $7.50 15.1 Produced and bottled by Pat Paulsen Vineyards, Cloverdale. Dry and tart, from mature fruit, giving good balance and flavors. CHATEAU ST. JEAN FRANK JOHNSON VINEYARD 1985 RUSSIAN RIVER $8 15.0 Produced and bottled by Chateau St. Jean, Kenwood. Lovely wine with delicate litchi taste, silky body; splendid varietal. Alphabetical listing of others tasted: Almaden 1984 San Benito County $6 Beringer 1984 Sonoma County $6.50 Callaway 1985 California $5.50 Chateau St. Jean 1985 Alexander $8 Clos du Bois 1985 Alexander Valley Early Harvest $9 Felton Empire 1984 Mendocino Talmage Town $7 Firestone Vineyard 1984 Santa Ynez Valley $6.50 Ernest & Julio Gallo 1984 California $3.50 Grand Cru Vineyards 1984 Alexander Valley $9.50 Gundlach-Bundschu 1985 Sonoma Valley $7.50 Hacienda Wine Cellars 1984 Sonoma County $7 Hacienda Wine Cellars 1985 Sonoma Valley $7 Kenwood Vineyards 1984 Sonoma Valley $6.75 Louis M. Martini 1984 Napa Valley $6 Joseph Phelps Vineyards 1984 Napa Valley $8 Rutherford Hill 1984 Napa Valley $7.50 Sebastiani 1985 Sonoma Valley $7.25 Smothers 1984 Sonoma County $7.75 Ventana Vineyard 1984 Monterey County $6 Winery Lake 1984 Los Carneros $7 LATE-HARVEST GEWURZTRAMINERS (4 wines tasted) Price Rating CHATEAU ST. JEAN SELECT LATE HARVEST 1983 ALEXANDER VALLEY (10ths) $14 17.5 Produced and bottled by Chateau St. Jean, Kenwood. Full elegance of botrytised grapes, giving rich honeyed taste; superb! CHARLES LEFRANC 1984 SAN BENITO COUNTY $10 17.2 Produced and bottled by Charles Lefranc Cellar, San Jose. Heavenly bouquet suggesting honey and apricots; rich dessert nectar. Others tasted: Balverne Vineyard 1983 Pepperwood Chalk Hill $8 Mirassou 1983 Monterey County $7 PRODUCED BY GRICEL CRISTINA SANABRIA AND JAMES WILLETT