POTLUCK Thanksgiving

Food trends and fads come and go, but there is one meal a year that stays the same no matter what. That, of course, is Thanksgiving dinner. The thought of Thanksgiving without turkey and its obligatory accompaniments is . . . well . . . unthinkable to most of us.

Some things have changed, however. When families were larger and relatives lived nearby, it was easy to go all out with an elaborate holiday menu. Those were the days when the real difficulty lay in how to seat everybody, not how to cope with the leftovers. But today’s smaller, less close-knit families often view a traditional Thanksgiving meal less enthusiastically. It’s a heartwarming meal the first time around, but later on regrets set in. Will that bird never end?

So how can one celebrate as always, but not face endless leftovers?

One happy solution is to gather a group of friends and acquaintances who are in the same situation and band together for a smashing potluck supper. Not only will the cooking chores be split among many, but any leftovers can be parceled out among those attending.

With such a Thanksgiving celebration in mind, The Times’ Food staff decided to share some holiday recipes that are traditional in their own homes, plus a few new favorites that would enhance any potluck feast. Some of these recipes are simple, some more complicated. But all are wonderful and all will fit into a festive menu designed to celebrate this very special American holiday.

Cranberry sauce, the wine of your choice and plenty of hot coffee or tea will round out this typical potluck menu nicely.

Hot Pomegranate Punch

Oyster-Spinach Bisque

Sage-Stuffed Roast Turkey and Gravy

Mashed Potato Crown or

Serritelli Holiday Vegetable Medley

Green Bean Salad or Pink Arctic Freeze

Holiday Pancit

Rosemary Currant Bread

Walnut-Pumpkin Squares

Fresh sage leaves provide the dominant flavoring in a traditional bread-based stuffing for the glistening holiday bird at Betsy Balsley’s home.

HOT POMEGRANATE PUNCH

(Laura Vera)

5 pomegranates

7 cups water

2 whole cloves

2 sticks cinnamon

1/2 cup sugar

1 (6-ounce) can pineapple juice

2 ounces tequila

1/4 cup raisins

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1/4 cup chopped peanuts

Thin orange slices, optional

Mint leaves, optional

Remove seeds from pomegranates. Mash in mortar with pestle or puree in blender. Combine seeds with water, cloves and cinnamon in saucepan. Bring to boil. Add sugar and pineapple juice. Simmer 10 minutes. Add tequila. Serve with raisins, walnuts and peanuts on side. Garnish with thin orange with thin orange slices and mint leaves. Makes about 16 (1/2-cup) servings.

OYSTER-SPINACH BISQUE

(Donna Deane)

1/4 cup finely chopped salt pork

1/2 cup minced onion

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons butter

4 (8-ounce) jars oysters with liquor

5 1/2 cups (about) chicken broth, preferably homemade

1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice

1 stalk lemon grass, cut into 3 sections

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed

3 cups whipping cream

1 tablespoon flour

Salt, white pepper

1/4 cup dry Sherry

Red caviar

Lemon wedges

Hot pepper sauce

Saute salt pork in large saucepan until lightly browned. Add onion, garlic and 2 tablespoons butter. Continue to saute until onion is tender.

Drain oysters into measuring cup. Add enough chicken broth to oyster liquor to measure 6 cups. Set aside oysters, cutting up any large pieces.

Add broth mixture to saucepan with clam juice and lemon grass. Cover and simmer 20 minutes. Add spinach and continue simmering 5 minutes. Remove lemon grass. Puree soup in batches in blender or food processor. Return to pot. Stir in 1 cup whipping cream.

Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter and blend in flour. Add to bisque. Bring to boil, stirring until slightly thickened. Add reserved oysters. Simmer just until oysters begin to curl, about 2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Stir in Sherry. Pour into serving tureen. Serve with remaining 2 cups cream, heated, for each guest to add to bowl of bisque, if desired. Serve with caviar, lemon wedges and hot pepper sauce. Makes about 10 cups.

ROAST TURKEY WITH SAGE DRESSING

(Betsy Balsley)

1 medium to large turkey

Salt, pepper

Sage Dressing

Melted butter

Sage leaves

Gravy

Remove neck and giblets from turkey. Cook neck and giblets in water to cover to make broth for Gravy.

Rinse turkey and pat dry. Rub salt and pepper into neck and body cavities and onto skin surface. Lightly spoon some Sage Dressing into neck cavity, then skewer neck skin to back. Stuff body cavity with some remaining dressing and secure drumsticks with string. Twist wings akimbo under turkey, if desired, or secure to body with wood picks.

Place turkey, breast side up, on rack in roasting pan. Brush with melted butter. Insert meat thermometer into thick part of thigh. Point should not touch bone. Roast at 325 degrees until meat thermometer registers 175 degrees or until thick part of drumstick feels tender when pressed with thumb and forefinger or until drumstick and thigh move easily.

Remove turkey from roasting pan onto serving platter and garnish with sage leaves or as desired. Pass Gravy on side.

Sage Dressing

1 cup butter

1 cup chopped celery

1 cup chopped onions

2 (12-ounce) packages seasoned dressing

1 (8-ounce) can water chestnuts, drained

Chicken broth

2 bunches sage, about 1/2 cup leaves, chopped

Salt, pepper

Melt butter in large saucepan. Saute celery and onions until tender-crisp. Add seasoned dressing, water chestnuts and enough chicken broth to moisten mixture. Add sage and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove from heat and use to stuff turkey. Place any remaining dressing in baking dish and bake at 300 degrees during last 30 minutes of roasting turkey. Makes about 8 cups.

Gravy

Reserved giblets and broth

Drippings from roast turkey

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup Sherry

Salt, pepper

Remove giblets (and turkey neck, if used) from broth and chop giblets. Extract any meat from neck and discard bones. Set giblets and neck meat aside.

Strain broth through 2 thicknesses of cheesecloth in colander. Set aside.

Drain fat from turkey roasting pan, reserving about 1/2 cup fat and brown drippings. Pour reserved fat and drippings into large skillet, scraping roasting pan to loosen drippings.

Place skillet over medium heat and cook until fat is hot. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until flour is well browned and all lumps have disappeared.

Add enough water to reserved broth to make 4 cups. Stir into flour mixture. Cook, stirring, until mixture is smooth and thickened. Stir in Sherry and season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil mixture 1 to 2 minutes, then stir in giblets. Makes about 1 quart gravy.

GREEN BEAN SALAD

(Nancy Farr)

2 1/2 pounds whole green beans, cut in halves crosswise

1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, chopped

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup sour cream

1/8 cup tarragon vinegar

3 green onions, finely chopped

Salt, pepper

Hard-cooked eggs, separated and finely chopped

Cherry tomatoes

Green onion stalks, optional

Cook green beans in small amount boiling salted water until tender-crisp but bright green. Drain. Refresh in ice cold water.

Combine anchovies, mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar and green onions. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Drain green beans very well. Place in large bowl and add enough mayonnaise mixture to coat beans. Chill, covered, 4 hours. Serve sprinkled with chopped hard-cooked egg yolks and whites. Garnish with cherry tomatoes and green onion stalks. Pass any remaining mayonnaise on side. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SERRITELLI HOLIDAY VEGETABLE MEDLEY

(Marge Powers)

1 pound bacon

1 pound whole mushrooms, trimmed

4 large red potatoes, quartered, then cut in halves

1 pound frozen peas, partially thawed

6 eggs, beaten

1/2 cup white Port or other sweet white wine

6 cloves garlic, sliced

1 large onion, sliced

Garlic salt

Onion salt

Freshly ground pepper

Hot pepper sauce

1/4 cup butter, melted

Cook bacon until crisp in large skillet. Cut into 1-inch pieces. Rinse mushrooms and potatoes. (Potatoes may be peeled or unpeeled.)

In large mixing bowl, combine bacon, mushrooms, potatoes, peas, eggs, wine, garlic and onion. Season to taste with garlic salt, onion salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce. Add butter.

Turn mixture into buttered 13x9 baking dish and cover tightly with foil. Bake at 350 degrees about 1 hour. Halfway through baking, stir contents. Makes about 6 to 8 servings.

PINK ARCTIC FREEZE

(Melanie Clarkson)

2 (3-ounce) packages cream cheese

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons sugar

1 (1-pound) can whole cranberry sauce

1 (9-ounce) can crushed pineapple or pineapple tidbits, drained

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup whipping cream, whipped

Leaf lettuce

Soften cream cheese. Blend in mayonnaise and sugar. Add cranberry sauce, pineapple and walnuts. Fold in whipped cream. Pour into 8 1/2x4 1/2-inch loaf pan. Freeze until firm, 6 hours or overnight. To serve, let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Slice and serve over leaf lettuce. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

HOLIDAY PANCIT

(Minnie Bernardino)

1/4 cup vegetable oil

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 small onion, chopped

1 cup thinly sliced pork

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 (1-ounce) package shiitake mushrooms, soaked and cut up

1 cup diagonally sliced celery

1 carrot, peeled and cut crosswise in thin slices

10 to 15 Chinese pea pods

1 cup chopped bok choy

4 ounces medium to large shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 cups chicken broth

1 (8-ounce) package Canton or chuka soba noodles

Salt, pepper

Dash MSG, optional

Sesame oil

Lemon wedges

Cabbage

Heat vegetable oil in large wok or deep skillet. Saute garlic until lightly golden. Remove garlic and reserve.

Add onion to wok and saute until tender-crisp. Add pork and soy sauce. Stir-fry until pork is tender and cooked, 10 to 15 minutes. Add shiitake and cook 5 minutes.

Stir in celery and carrots. Stir-fry 3 minutes. Add pea pods and bok choy and stir-fry another 3 minutes. Add shrimp and chicken broth and bring to quick boil (do not overcook shrimp). Drain shrimp-vegetable mixture and reserve.

Return broth to wok. Bring to boil over medium heat. Drop in noodles and simmer 5 minutes or until noodles are tender but firm, stirring only occasionally so they don’t get mushy. Broth may be absorbed, depending on consistency desired. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add MSG.

Reserve 1/3 of shrimp mixture for topping. Gently fold remaining mixture into noodles. Turn onto cabbage-lined platter. Top with reserved shrimp mixture and garlic. Serve with sesame oil and lemon wedges on side. Makes 6 servings.

Note: If serving immediately, 2 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water may be added to 1 cup seasoned chicken broth and added at last minute to hot noodles.

MASHED POTATO CROWN

(Rose Dosti)

8 potatoes, peeled

Butter

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup half and half or milk

Paprika

Finely chopped parsley

Cut 1/2-inch balls using melon ball tool from enough potatoes to make 2 cups balls. Melt 2 tablespoons butter and roll balls in butter. Bake at 400 degrees 30 to 45 minutes until evenly browned, shaking pan occasionally.

Meanwhile, cook remaining potatoes and potatoes from which balls were cut in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and sprinkle potatoes with salt and pepper to taste. Pat dry or dry over very low heat to remove excess moisture. Press potatoes through ricer.

Add 1/2 cup butter and half and half. Add additional salt, if needed, and pepper. Beat until light and fluffy.

Spoon mashed potatoes in mound in oven-proof casserole or dish. Using metal knife or spatula, shape into pyramid with flat top, and form ridges or creases around outside of potato pyramid with knife. Brush with melted butter. Bake at 425 degrees until creases in potato pyramid begin to brown.

Place about 6 potato balls around rim of top of potato pyramid to form crown effect. Place remaining balls around base of pyramid. Sprinkle overall with paprika and parsley. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

ROSEMARY CURRANT BREAD

(Barbara Hansen)

2 tablespoons plus 1/4 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon shortening

1 cup milk, scalded

1 package dry yeast

1/4 cup very warm water

3 cups all-purpose flour, about

1 egg

1 tablespoon rosemary leaves

1/2 cup currants

1/2 cup whole-wheat flour

Combine 2 tablespoons sugar, salt, butter and shortening in bowl. Pour hot milk over. Dissolve yeast in very warm water with remaining 1/4 teaspoon sugar. Add to cooled mixture. Add 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour to make thick batter. Cover and let rise until spongy and light. Stir down.

Add egg, rosemary, currants and whole-wheat flour. Add enough remaining all-purpose flour to make stiff dough. Knead on floured board until smooth and elastic. Place in greased bowl, cover and let rise until doubled. Punch down. Place loaf in greased 9x5-inch loaf pan. To make cloverleaf rolls, shape bits of dough into 1-inch balls. Place 3 balls in each greased muffin cup. Let rise again until doubled.

Bake rolls at 375 degrees 15 to 20 minutes. Bake loaf at 350 degrees 50 to 60 minutes. Makes 1 dozen cloverleaf rolls or 1 loaf.

WALNUT-PUMPKIN SQUARES

(Joan Drake)

1 cup flour

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1/3 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped medium fine

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1 egg

1 (1-pound) can pumpkin

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup hot water

Whipped cream, optional

Combine flour and brown sugar. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add walnuts.

Press walnut mixture in firm, even layer over bottom of 10x6-inch baking dish. Bake at 350 degrees about 20 minutes or until lightly browned.

Beat cream cheese until creamy. Beat in egg. Add pumpkin, condensed milk, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Beat until smooth.

Immediately stir in hot water to blend. Pour over baked crust and return to 350-degree oven. Bake about 50 to 60 minutes or until filling is barely set in center. Cool before cutting into squares. Garnish with dollop of whipped cream. Makes 6 to 8 servings.