THE BEST OF ’86

It wasn’t easy. Taste is so subjective that getting 10 people to agree on exactly how good a specific dish is becomes almost impossible. However, The Times’ Food staff once again has managed to remember, discuss, argue about and finally decide on the 12 best recipes we published during the past year. Our personal tastes are diverse. Some love sweets, others are relatively indifferent to them. Foods that are rich and most unfashionably fattening have tremendous appeal to some, yet others on the staff would avoid these at all costs. In other words, we’re just like you. We have certain foods we like, others we don’t. Thus, it’s hardly surprising that in compiling our list of the 12 best, there was no one recipe that made everyone’s list. But the following recipes, certainly an eclectic group, earned the most votes.

FAIRY PIE

1/2 cup butter

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Dash salt

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup goat milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup chopped walnuts, optional

1 (10-ounce) package frozen raspberries, packed in sugar syrup

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch, or less

Whipped Cream

Cream together butter and 1/2 cup sugar. Combine flour, baking powder and salt. Beat egg yolks with goat milk. Add flour and egg mixtures alternately to creamed mixture. Pour batter into 2 greased 8-inch round layer cake pans. Spread evenly to edge, forming thin layer. Beat egg whites until stiff. Gradually beat in 3/4 cup sugar. Blend in vanilla. Add nuts.

Spread meringue on batter in layer pans to within 1 inch of edge. Bake at 350 degrees 25 minutes or until wood pick comes out clean. Remove from oven. Cool on racks 10 minutes, then remove from pans and cool completely. Drain syrup from raspberries into saucepan. Blend in cornstarch. Cook and stir until thickened. Add berries.

To serve, cut each layer into 4 to 6 wedges. Top each wedge with spoonful of whipped cream. Drizzle some of raspberry sauce over cream. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

385 NORTH’S TATAKI OF BEEF

(Marinated Beef)

1 1/2 teaspoons grated ginger root

3/4 teaspoon grated garlic

1/2 cup dark soy sauce

1 bunch chiso (ooba leaf), julienned

1/4 cup lime juice

14 ounces culotte or New York steak

Pepper

2 tablespoons peanut oil

Green onions, sliced

Combine ginger, garlic, soy sauce, chiso and lime juice in flat glass dish just large enough to hold steak. Set aside. Trim steak to remove excess fat and season to taste with pepper on top and bottom. Sear beef quickly in hot peanut oil on all sides over high heat. Cook to rare stage only.

Place in dish with marinade and turn to coat well. Refrigerate, turning occasionally, at least 1 hour. Steak should be very cold and firm before slicing.

To serve, thinly slice diagonally. Sprinkle steak slices with thinly sliced green onions cut on bias and spoon small amount of marinade over, or serve on bed of julienned carrots, Chinese pea pods, or other thinly sliced vegetable, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Chiso or ooba leaf is available in Oriental markets.

CAMELIONS’ CREME BRULEE

7 egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 cups whipping cream

Dash salt

1/2 vanilla bean

3/4 to 1 cup brown sugar, packed

Mix egg yolks and granulated sugar. Place cream and salt in heavy saucepan. Slice vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out inner portion and add scrapings to cream mixture. Heat to scalding. Gradually beat cream into egg yolk mixture, then strain through fine sieve. Pour into 6 to 8 (4-ounce) souffle cups. Cover with foil, place in pan of hot water and bake at 350 degrees 30 to 40 minutes, until set.

Remove foil. Top each with 2 tablespoons brown sugar and place under broiler until sugar is melted and caramelized. If desired, dry brown sugar slightly by spreading out in thin layer on platter, then grind to consistency of powdered sugar in food processor. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

FROM SCRATCH TUNNEL OF FUDGE CAKE

1 3/4 cups butter or margarine, softened

1 3/4 cups granulated sugar

6 eggs

2 cups powdered sugar

2 1/4 cups flour

3/4 cup cocoa powder

2 cups chopped walnuts

Glaze

Beat butter and granulated sugar in large bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually add powdered sugar, blending well. By hand, stir in flour, cocoa and walnuts until well blended.

Spoon batter into greased and floured 12-cup bundt pan or 10-inch angel-food tube pan. Bake at 350 degrees 58 to 62 minutes. Cool upright in pan on cooling rack 1 hour. Invert onto serving plate. Cool completely. Spoon Glaze over top of cake, allowing some to run down sides. Makes 16 servings.

Note: Nuts are essential for success of recipe. Since cake has soft tunnel of fudge, ordinary doneness test cannot be used. Accurate oven temperature and baking time are critical. In altitudes above 3,500 feet, increase flour to 2 1/4 cups plus 3 tablespoons.

Glaze

3/4 cup powdered sugar

1/4 cup cocoa powder

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons milk

Combine sugar, cocoa and milk in small bowl until well blended. Store tightly covered.

BASEBALL BARS

2/3 cup butter

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup light corn syrup

1/4 cup chunky peanut butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 cups quick oats

Topping

Chopped nuts, optional

Melt butter, brown sugar and corn syrup together. Add peanut butter and vanilla. Mix well. Stir in oats. Press mixture into greased 9-inch baking pan. Bake at 375 degrees 15 minutes.

Spread with hot Topping. Sprinkle with chopped nuts. Cool. Refrigerate. If too cold, let stand about 15 minutes for ease in cutting. Cut into bars. Makes 16 to 20 bars.

Topping

1 (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate pieces

1 (12-ounce) package butterscotch pieces

2/3 cup chunky peanut butter

1 cup chopped unsalted nuts

Mix chocolate and butterscotch pieces, peanut butter and nuts in saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring until blended.

BEEF PAPRIKASH FOR TWO

3/4 pound beef sirloin

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons butter or margarine

2 cups beef stock

2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 cup sour cream

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

Cooked noodles for 2

Chill beef until very firm but not frozen. Slice in thin strips about 3 inches long. Brown in 1 tablespoon oil in heavy skillet. Remove beef from skillet and set aside.

Pour off excess fat. Saute onion and garlic in same skillet in remaining 1 tablespoon oil and butter until tender, but not browned. Return beef to pan and add beef stock, paprika and mushrooms. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring mixture to boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer until meat is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

When beef is tender, stir flour into sour cream and add to beef mixture. Bring to boil and cook, stirring, until thickened. Stir in lemon juice. Serve at once over hot noodles. Makes 2 servings.

ALICE AQUINO’S CHICKEN RELLENO

1 (3-pound) chicken

Salt, pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons lemon juice

3/4 pound ground pork

1/4 pound lean bacon, chopped or coarsely ground

6 ounces Cheddar cheese, shredded

1/2 cup raisins

3 tablespoons sweet pickle relish

1 egg

1 carrot, cooked and cut julienne, or 1/2 cup green peas, cooked

3 ounces cooked ham, cut julienne

2 Spanish chorizo de Bilbao or pepperoni, about 5 ounces

2 hard-cooked eggs, cut in halves

1 to 2 tablespoons butter, melted

Bone chicken for stuffing, leaving wing and drumstick bones intact. Season chicken to taste with salt and pepper and rub with soy sauce and lemon juice. Let stand at least 30 minutes. (Refrigerate if marinating longer than this time.)

Combine ground pork, bacon, cheese, raisins, pickle relish and egg. Mix well. Place chicken on board, skin side down. Place half of stuffing in boned cavity of chicken. Arrange carrot and ham strips, sausage and egg halves in rows on top of pork mixture. Cover with remaining mixture, stuffing boned thighs.

Bring 2 cut sides of chicken together. Fasten edges at 1-inch intervals with wood picks or skewers, then lace with string. Turn bird over and mold it back to resemble original shape. Tie legs with string and tuck wings akimbo. Place on rack in roasting pan and cover with foil. Bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes and remove foil. Continue baking additional 1 hour or more until golden brown, basting with melted butter. Collect drippings, if desired, and make flour gravy.

Remove skewers and string. Place on serving platter and garnish as desired with vegetables or fruit. Carve into 1/2-inch-thick diagonal or crosswise slices, starting from wing sides. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

BOUDIN BLANC AUX HERBES ST. GERMAIN

1 1/2 cups milk

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/2 bunch tarragon

1/2 bunch basil

1/2 bunch parsley

2 green onions, chopped

2 shallots

14 ounces lean veal, trimmed

14 ounces lean chicken meat, trimmed

14 ounces pork fatback or veal fat

1 pound ice cubes with a little cold water

1 1/4 tablespoons salt

3/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

1/8 teaspoon ground mace or nutmeg

Pork or sheep casings

Butter

Bring milk and cream to boil. Add tarragon, basil, parsley, green onions and shallots. Let boil 1 minute. Drain. Chill herbs and cream mixture separately until cold, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Grind veal, chicken meat and fat separately through fine grinding plate. Repeat to grind even more finely.

Place herbs in food processor or sausage chopper and finely grind. Add veal, chicken and 1/3 of ice and water mixture. Grind until water is absorbed. Add salt, white pepper, allspice and mace. Add another 1/3 of ice and water and process until almost smooth. Add milk mixture and remaining ice and water. Process until emulsion is smooth, fine and creamy. Remove mixture and keep cold.

Place ground fat in processor and process until smooth and creamy. Slowly add meat mixture, processing until smooth and creamy (temperature should not exceed 55 degrees).

Slide wet casings onto stuffing horn or funnel tube. Tie knot in end. Feed in sausage meat, filling casing loosely. Pinch sausage at 5- to 6-inch lengths, then twist or twirl twice to make links.

Poach sausages in large kettle, covered with cheesecloth, 20 minutes for larger pork casings and 7 to 10 minutes for smaller sheep casings. Water temperature should be about 180 degrees. Transfer sausages from poaching water to ice cold water to cool quickly 5 to 12 minutes. (If not grilling immediately, store, covered, in refrigerator 4 to 5 days.)

Saute in small amount of butter until lightly golden. If desired, add small amount of wine to remaining drippings and pour over sausages upon serving. Serve with butter-sauteed onions and cooked potatoes, if desired. Makes about 20 pork-casing sausages or 40 sheep-casing sausages.

Note: Sheep casings will be finer and more tender than pork casings.

VACUUM CLEANER COOKIES

(Neiman-Marcus Squares)

1/2 cup margarine (not butter) melted

1 (18.25-ounce) box yellow cake mix

3 eggs

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1 (1-pound) box powdered sugar

1/2 cup flaked coconut

1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

Combine margarine, cake mix and 1 egg. Stir together until dry ingredients are moistened. Pat mixture into bottom of well-greased 15x10-inch jellyroll pan.

Beat remaining 2 eggs lightly, then beat in cream cheese and powdered sugar. Stir in coconut and nuts. Pour over mixture in jellyroll pan, spreading evenly. Bake at 325 degrees 45 to 50 minutes or until golden brown. Cool pan on wire rack to room temperature. Makes 4 dozen bars.

Note: Use plain cake mix, not that with pudding added. Do not use whipped margarine.

TARTE TATIN A LA NOUNOU

1 cup butter

2 cups sugar

8 to 12 small Red Delicious apples

1 sheet frozen puff pastry patty shell

Vanilla ice cream

Place butter and sugar in heavy-gauge pan 2 1/2 inches deep and 8 inches in diameter. Peel and core apples. Arrange apples snugly upright around edge of pan and in center over sugar mixture. Add more apples, if necessary, to keep pan snugly fitted with apples.

Place over low to medium heat and simmer 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until sugar-butter syrup is golden caramel color. As apples cook, fit any bits of apple in gaps where apples have shrunk.

Roll patty shell out on floured board to 9-inch circle. It should be very thin. Pierce with tines of fork and place over apples. Bake at 375 degrees 20 minutes or until crust is golden. Invert on platter, being careful sides do not fall away. With spatula or broad knife, smooth surface of apples and serve warm topped with small scoops of vanilla ice cream. Makes about 8 servings.

Note: In place of puff pastry use 6 sheets filo dough. Stack, cut into 9-inch circle and brush each sheet with butter. Stack again and place over tart to bake as directed.

NEW OTANI HOTEL’S SAKE DUCK

1 (2- to 4-pound) duckling

Honey

1 orange or mandarin orange

1/2 bunch green onions or 1 leek, finely julienned

Sake Sauce

Place duckling in baking pan. Bake at 300 degrees 2 hours, basting with honey every 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Remove bones from duck and slice meat into desired slices. Grate orange over duck and sprinkle with green onions. Pour Sake Sauce over duck. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Sake Sauce

1 cup mirin (sweet sake)

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup orange juice

1 teaspoon grated ginger root

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch

1 leek, finely julienned

Combine mirin, soy sauce, orange juice and ginger in small saucepan. Heat until hot but do not boil. Remove from heat and stir in brown sugar. Stir arrowroot or starch with some of hot liquid until smooth and return to pan. Cook and stir until sauce thickens slightly. Strain sauce through fine strainer into another pot or sauce boat. Add leek to sauce and mix gently. Let stand 10 minutes to blend flavors. Makes about 2 cups.

REESE’S FROZEN PEANUT BUTTER PIE

2 3/4 pints vanilla ice cream

1/2 cup peanut butter

2 ounces semisweet chocolate pieces

Cocoa-Graham Cracker Crust

Chocolate Sauce

Sweetened whipped cream

Stir vanilla ice cream with peanut butter and chocolate pieces by hand. Spoon into Cocoa-Graham Cracker Crust. Freeze immediately until solid, about 2 hours or overnight. Top with Chocolate Sauce and whipped cream. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Do not allow ice cream to become too soft before mixing with peanut butter. If using electric mixer, do not overwhip. Mix at slow speed.

Cocoa-Graham Cracker Crust

2 1/3 cups graham cracker crumbs

3/4 cup melted butter

1/3 cup superfine granulated sugar

2/3 cup sifted cocoa powder

Mix together crumbs, butter, sugar and cocoa until well incorporated. Press firmly into 9-inch pie plate to make solid bottom crust. Freeze until ready to use.

Chocolate Sauce

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

1 tablespoon corn syrup

2 1/4 ounces sweet chocolate, grated

1/4 cup whipping cream

Combine sugar, water, corn syrup and chocolate in saucepan. Bring to boil. Remove immediately from heat and stir until smooth. In separate saucepan, bring cream to boil. Stir into chocolate mixture until smooth. Makes 1 1/2 cups.