Paris: A City of History, Antiques

Parisians adore fine antiques almost as much as they despise old clothes. Hundreds of antiquaries in the City of Light offer all sorts of verifiable treasures and a lot of old junk that is of interest simply because it has survived the ages.

Antiques from everywhere are sold here. Shops specialize according to period or type of object. There are dealers with Renaissance, or Second Empire furniture, others with Art Deco glass or Roman terra cotta, and still others with Oriental objets d’art, Russian icons, clocks, books, scientific instruments, Etruscan vases or porcelain dolls.

The biggest selection and best buys are in collectibles of French origin. Periods go in and out of favor. Fad influences the price of items from a given period at a given time, but most French antiques are less expensive here than they would be at home. Price variations depend not only on quality but also on the location of the shop.

On the up-market side there’s the expensive, elegant and exclusive Louvre des Antiquaires, a veritable treasury of antiques of all sorts, in a palatial building at 2 Place de Palais Royal (Metro: Palais Royal or Louvre) in the 1st arrondisement. Louvre des Antiquaires houses about 250 antique dealers, each with a small glass-fronted shop that is decorated to attract attention amid all the competition.

Three Floors of Shops

The shops are distributed over three floors, each of which has little streets or allees on which storefronts display all categories of collectibles, including period furniture, jewelry, paintings, archeological artifacts, Art Deco and nouveau, personal accessories, dolls, games, rare books and more.

The building is open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Dealers set their own hours, so not all of the shops are open the entire time.

For browsing, the Louvre des Antiquaires rivals the Musee du Louvre across the street. An exhibition hall has rotating shows, including a private collection of magnificent miniatures with 17th-Century marquetry furniture.

The building, itself of historic interest, was constructed during the 1850s. That is admittedly not ancient by Parisian standards, but the building was formerly the Grand Hotel de Louvre, which listed Mark Twain among its celebrated guests. The exterior has been carefully preserved, with arcades at street level, iron balconies around upper stories, and dormer windows jutting out of the gray mansard roof, just as during the day of Napoleon III.

The inside is renovated with benches, escalators and a restaurant. The management sets high standards for resident dealers. Galerie Francois Antonovich has exceptional terra cotta objects from ancient civilizations, including Egyptian, Greek and Roman pieces, with beautiful statues, vases and ancient glass.

Dolls and Toys

At Volubilis, Gerard Eitenbled’s splendid 19th-Century dolls are obviously cared for with great respect and love. In addition, the shop sells antique games and toys. Andree Debar has exceptional furniture from the era of Napoleon III, as well as lovely art nouveau collectibles.

Hugette Riviere also has fine Napoleon III furniture and objets d’art, very much in vogue. Nicole Kramer has a fabulous collection of small objects including ivory, mother of pearl and tortoise shell boxes, playing or visiting card holders, notebooks, frames for miniatures, all from the time of Napoleon III.

Alain Lesieutre shows art nouveau and deco bronzes, tableaux, drawings and glass. The magnificent selection includes pieces by Bugatti, Chiparus, Galle and Daum.

Lesieutre shows his private collection (fascinating, but not for sale) at his other shop at 9 Rue de Beaune, one of the narrow streets of the 7th arrondisement, across the Seine. Many Louvre des Antiquaires dealers, as well as other antiquaries, have shops in this area, known as the Carre Rive Gauche. The shops are larger than those at Louvre des Antiquaires, and sometimes less expensive. The Carre Rive Gauche, bounded by the Quai Voltaire, Rue des Saints Peres, Rue de l’Universite and Rue du Bac, has about 100 interesting antique shops.

Village Suisse, a collection of about 100 reputable antique dealers, is at 56 Ave. de la Motte-Piquet in the 7th arrondisement. Use either the Eiffel Tower or the Hilton Hotel as a landmark. Village Suisse has almost as wide a variety as Louvre des Antiquaires. Overall quality varies greatly. Displays are less dazzling and merchandise is a little less pricey than at Louvre des Antiquaires. Village Suisse is open Thursday through Monday.

For Negotiators

If you’re good at bargaining, try the antique stalls at the Marche aux Puces (flea market) at Saint Ouen, an industrial suburb on the northern border of Paris. You can get there by taking the Metro No. 4 line to Porte de Clignancourt and walking several blocks. Meandering through the crowded little alleys is fun, but watch your valuables, and know your antiques before buying.

Not all merchants are entirely above board about authenticity, or one may forget to mention that an antique desk is really a composite of several pieces of furniture. Many dealers are honest, but it is unpleasant and costly to deal with those who are not.

On smaller items, such as amusing old photographs or enchanting pieces of antique costume (junk) jewelry, it doesn’t cost much to indulge a whim, but be careful on more expensive items. The flea market is open weekends.

Antiques auctions are held at the famous Hotel Drouot, 9 Rue Drouot, 9th arrondisement (Metro: Le Pelletier). Inside this architecturally eclectic building are 16 exhibition halls and sales rooms. About 6,000 people visit Hotel Drouot every day. They are antique dealers, bargain hunters, and others who just enjoy a good show. They browse through all sorts of objects--Second Empire, Art Deco and other period furniture, antique jewelry, artwork, memorabilia and other items--that are going on the block.

Several sales are held daily. Every Friday, the Gazette de Hotel Drouot previews upcoming sales. Prices are generally fair. There is an appraisal desk staffed from Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to noon and 2 to 6 p.m. You’re at a disadvantage if you don’t speak French. Use an interpreter, especially if you plan to buy. The auction is often fast and furious. The contest is much more fun if you understand the rules.

In addition, special antique markets are held periodically in tents set up around the city. Check newspaper ads for listings of these events.

As an American citizen returning to the United States, you are eligible to receive a tax refund (detaxe) of 4% to 22%, depending upon the type of merchandise you buy. Inquire when you make your purchase about the necessary paper work. And always get a receipt that gives details about your purchase, especially about the age of an antique.

U.S. Customs levies no duties on antiques more than 100 years old. Your receipt or a certificate of authenticity will serve as proof. Hire a reputable shipper to send your purchases home. Most antique dealers will make recommendations if they don’t handle shipping themselves.