AROMATIC GLORY OF THE ONION : Unusual uses for onions include a burger-topping marmalade, below

If one could package the potent drawing power of the odor of frying onions, it might well be worth a fortune. One whiff of this earthy aroma, and anyone within “nose-shot” will, usually without being aware of it, gravitate toward the kitchen to see what’s going on. Add a little garlic, another member of the allium family, to the same skillet and you’ll be fighting off a veritable stampede.

Members of the onion family--from the familiar long green salad onions to the common “dry” round variety to the glitzy sweet type such as the Maui, Walla Walla, Vidalia and Imperial Sweet--all have this unusual universal appeal. Neither glamorous nor particularly pretty, onions are used extensively in nearly every cuisine known to humans. Throughout the centuries they have been the subject of myths and touted as curatives for certain medical problems, but their main claim to fame for thousands of years has been their role as a delicious food.

That an onion can be difficult to deal with on occasion is no myth, however. Hundreds of solutions have been noted for ways to avoid tearing up when chopping or slicing fresh onions. None really works, however, so philosophical cooks just gird up their courage by anticipating how wonderful this root vegetable is going to taste and get on with the tearful task.

In his encyclopedia, Food, the late Waverley Root noted that, “Cooking does indeed render harmless the raw onion, which draws tears from the eyes, creates difficulties for those of weak digestion and offends many by its sulfurous smell. These qualities stem from the diabolic origin of the onion, of which we are informed by an ancient Turkish legend which explains that when Satan was cast out of heaven, garlic sprouted where he first placed his left foot and onions where he placed his right.”

Whatever one believes about the origin of the onion, its beginnings definitely lie in obscurity. Evidence indicates it probably first became known in Asia, where it was cultivated by prehistoric humans. Its continuing popularity as time passed is apparent in the fact that its likeness has been found in temple decorations in ancient Egypt and was actually mentioned in the original code of law, the Code of Hammurabi, which stated that the needy were to receive a monthly supply of bread and onions.

Certainly onions, from the beginning, could not be ignored. Castigated by some, adored by others, all members of this aromatic lily family of vegetables continue to play important roles in ethnic cuisines everywhere. Leeks, garlic, red, white and yellow round onions, boilers, shallots, green onions--all are readily available to add their own individual flavors to all types of prepared foods, from the earthiest peasant dish to the most elegantly classical presentation.

The upscale sweet onions that can only be described as pricey, should be relatively plentiful now and for the next month or so. And all other onions will not only be in good supply, prices on them should be excellent in coming weeks.

Although usually used as a flavoring ingredient for other foods, there are some dishes that make the most of onions in their own right. A sampler of some of the more interesting onion recipes that have surfaced recently follows.

LEEK SOUP

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons butter

4 leeks, sliced

1 quart chicken broth

3 potatoes, cubed

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

Salt, white pepper

2 carrots, shredded

Melt 1/4 cup butter in large soup pot. Add leeks and saute a few minutes. Pour in chicken broth. Bring to boil. Add potatoes. Cover and simmer until potatoes are tender.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in small saucepan. Stir in flour and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Stir into soup. Slowly add milk and bring to slow boil. Cook just until slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Sprinkle with carrots. Makes about 9 1/2 cups.

JACKIE OLDEN’S ONION MARMALADE

1/2 cup butter

6 red onions, sliced

6 shallots, sliced

3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup red wine

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Melt butter in skillet. Saute red onions and shallots until tender. Add sugar, red wine and balsamic vinegar. Simmer until liquid is almost gone. (Mixture freezes well, or can be canned.) Serve with hamburger or meat loaf, if desired. Makes about 8 servings.

ALBANIAN ONION PIE

(Burek Me Qep)

Olive oil

6 medium onions, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Salt, freshly ground pepper

6 eggs

1 cup milk

20 sheets filo pastry

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in large skillet. Add onions. Saute until golden but not browned. Add mint and salt and pepper to taste. Beat eggs in large bowl. Beat in milk. Add onion mixture.

Butter 13x9-inch pan or 9-inch round deep dish. Trim stack of filo pastry sheets to fit pan. Cut in halves if sheets are large. Cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying out.

Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in small skillet. Layer 11 filo pastry sheets in prepared pan, brushing each with hot oil. Pour onion mixture over filo layers. Top with remaining 9 filo sheets, brushing each sheet with oil. Brush top sheet with oil.

Bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes to 1 hour or until golden and firm. Cut into 3-inch diamond or square shapes from rectangular pan or wedges from deep dish. Makes about 12 pieces.

Note: This recipe is from “Middle Eastern Cooking” by Rose Dosti (HP Books).

HERBED ONION BREAD

1/4 cup butter or margarine

3 cups finely chopped onions

6 cups buttermilk baking mix

2 eggs

2 cups milk

2 teaspoons minced fresh basil

2 teaspoons minced fresh dill weed

Melt butter in skillet and saute onions until tender. In large bowl, combine with baking mix, egg, milk, basil and dill weed, mixing just until blended. Spoon into greased 9-inch round pan (2 inches deep). Bake at 375 degrees 60 to 70 minutes. Brush top with butter. Makes 1 loaf.

GREEN ONION PIE

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

4 cups sliced green onions

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk or half and half

1 cup cottage cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash white pepper

1 (9-inch) unbaked pie shell

Melt butter in skillet and saute green onions until tender, but not browned. Beat eggs and add milk, cheese, salt and pepper. Fold in onions and pour mixture into pie shell. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and continue baking 30 to 45 minutes or until filling is firm. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

ONION LOVERS TWIST

1 package dry yeast

1/4 cup warm water

4 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 cup hot water

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup butter or margarine, softened

1 egg

1 cup finely chopped onions

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon sesame or poppy seeds

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1 teaspoon paprika

In large bowl of electric mixer, dissolve yeast in warm water. Add 2 cups flour, sugar, salt, hot water, milk, 1/4 cup butter and egg. Blend at low speed until moistened. Beat 2 minutes at medium speed.

By hand, stir in remaining 2 cups flour to form soft dough. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled in bulk, 45 to 60 minutes. Stir down dough. Toss on floured surface until no longer sticky. Roll out to 18x12-inch rectangle.

Melt remaining 1/4 cup butter. Add onions, Parmesan cheese, sesame seeds, garlic salt and paprika and mix well. Spread on rolled dough. Cut lengthwise into 3 (18x4-inch) strips. Starting with 18-inch side, roll up each strip. Seal edges and ends.

Place on greased baking sheet and braid 3 rolls together. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled in bulk, 45 to 60 minutes. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes until golden brown. Serve warm or cool.

GLAZED ONIONS WITH PRIME RIB ROAST

1 (4- to 6-pound) prime rib roast

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 large onions, unpeeled

Sugar, optional

About 2 to 4 hours before serving, place roast in open roasting pan, fat side up, on rib bones. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Insert meat thermometer into center of meat, making sure pointed end does not touch bone or fat.

Combine butter and olive oil in bowl. Roll whole onions in butter mixture until well-coated. Sprinkle with salt or roll in sugar.

Arrange onions around meat. Roast meat at 325 degrees until thermometer reaches 140 degrees for rare, 160 degrees for medium and 170 degrees for well done. Baste onions frequently with drippings.

Place roast on cutting board or warm platter and let stand 25 minutes for easier carving. Make crosswise cuts on top of each onion and peel back skins. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

GAIL’S ONION JAM

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup oil

8 cups thinly sliced Spanish onions

6 shallots, sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup sugar

Melt butter and oil in saucepan. Saute onions and shallots until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat and stir in salt and pepper. Cook, partly covered, stirring frequently, until onions are very soft and caramel-colored, about 30 minutes. Do not burn. Stir in sugar and cook until sugar is completely dissolved. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes about 3 cups.

COSMAS KAPANTZOS’ ROMAINE SALATA

2 heads romaine lettuce

2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill weed

Salt, pepper

1/3 to 1/2 cup olive oil

1/3 to 1/2 cup lemon juice

Greek olives

Discard tough outer leaves from romaine leaves. Reserve several leaves for garnish. Rinse well and pat dry. Cut crosswise into 1-inch wide slices.

Toss together romaine, green onions and dill. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Combine olive oil and lemon juice. Drizzle over greens. Toss well to coat. Spoon into serving bowl. Garnish with reserved romaine leaves and Greek olives. Cover and chill until serving. Makes about 6 servings.

Note : If desired, 2/3 cup bottled Italian dressing may be substituted for olive oil and lemon juice.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times