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Fast, Fresh and Easy : Who says fast food must be takeout? : Some of the best fast meals can be whipped up at home . . . often on the spur of the moment.

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Times Food Editor

Among the most coveted recipes in any personal collection are those that fit into the quick-and-easy category. No cook can ever have too many tucked conveniently into a handy recipe file. Unfortunately, because recipes of this type fit their description so well, they do tend to be overused, a practice that leads either to boredom or complaints on the part of the diner or diners. And that means there is always room for more.

Where do these recipes come from? They all started somewhere . . . whether from desperation when a key ingredient for another planned recipe was missing, or simply because nothing was planned at all. Many are short versions of lengthy, classical recipes that have been adapted to fit a more hectic life style. Others came about simply because imaginative cooks tried new techniques on old standbys.

The Souffleed Eggs Benedict recipe that follows is a fine example of the latter. While vacationing with a group of friends in Hawaii recently, Jean Thwaite, food writer with the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, demonstrated a wonderful, simple replacement for poached eggs, which tend to overcook very quickly unless monitored closely. We tried utilizing her method of egg preparation in an eggs Benedict dish and it worked beautifully. Adding minced chives and cheese to the eggs provided additional flavor in a light main dish that is quick to prepare and uses ingredients that are readily available in most homes.

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Another egg-based dish shared by a good cook came to us from B.J. Doerfling, supervisor of the consumer test kitchens at Sunkist Growers, the citrus cooperative headquartered in Sherman Oaks. Her contribution is a puffy omelet that can be whipped up quickly and will serve four or five at once. Again, the recipe is not new, but the method of preparation is slightly different.

Although classed as a puffy omelet, Doerfling’s offering really is more like an airy quiche than an omelet. And once the technique is mastered, the flavors can be changed to suit personal tastes.

The shrimp dish is one The Times’ Test Kitchen director Minnie Bernardino came up with when she found a good buy on shrimp one day. Serve this one with steamed rice and fresh fruit for a light, complete meal.

The Turkey-Asparagus Rolls are both attractive in appearance and delicious. They would make a good main dish for unexpected guests. A light salad and some fruit and cheese for dessert would round out a repast that no one could fault.

The following recipes should provide some welcome variety for those in need of fast, fresh and easy menus.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times

TURKEY-ASPARAGUS ROLLS

6 turkey breast slices, cut 1/4 inch thick

Salt, pepper

7 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup soft bread crumbs

1 teaspoon crushed fresh thyme

12 asparagus spears, trimmed and cooked until tender-crisp

Flour

1 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Shredded lemon or orange zest, optional

Pound turkey breast slices to flatten. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Melt 2 tablespoons butter, then stir in garlic, bread crumbs and thyme. Spoon onto turkey slices. Place 2 asparagus spears along longer edge of each turkey slice and roll up turkey. Dredge lightly in flour.

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Melt 3 tablespoons butter in large skillet. Add turkey rolls and cook until light golden brown. Remove turkey from skillet. Melt another 2 tablespoons butter in skillet. Stir in 2 tablespoons flour and cook 1 minute. Stir in chicken broth, white wine, cream and mustard. Add turkey, seam side down, and simmer, covered, until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Place turkey rolls on heated platter. Garnish with shredded lemon zest. Serve sauce on side. Makes 6 servings.

EASY SHRIMP

1 (14-ounce) can clear chicken broth

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon Sherry

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon minced ginger root

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon minced jalapeno or serrano chile

1 pound medium to large shrimp, shelled

2 cups Chinese pea pods

1 cup julienne-cut jicama

Salt, pepper, optional

Combine 1/4 cup of broth with cornstarch, then set aside. Mix remaining broth with Sherry and soy sauce.

Heat oil in wok or large, deep skillet. Saute ginger, garlic and chile. Add shrimp and cook 1 minute. Stir in Sherry-broth mixture. Cook 2 minutes. Remove shrimp with slotted spoon. Add Chinese pea pods to wok and cook 3 minutes. Stir in jicama and cornstarch mixture. Heat just until thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine shrimp with mixture and serve immediately. Makes about 4 servings.

PUFFY OMELET WITH HAM AND CHEESE

5 eggs, separated

2 tablespoons milk

Salt, pepper

1/4 teaspoon fines herbes or other herb of choice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 cup shredded Fontina cheese

1/4 cup chopped cooked ham

2 tablespoons chopped green onion

Beat egg yolks with milk and salt and pepper to taste until very light and fluffy. Stir in fines herbes and mustard.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Carefully fold yolk mixture into beaten whites.

Melt butter in oven-proof omelet pan or 10-inch skillet over low heat. Spoon egg mixture into pan and cook 3 minutes until puffy and golden on underside when lifted with spatula. Sprinkle with cheese, ham and green onion. Bake at 350 degrees 10 minutes or until golden and top springs back when tapped with finger. Serve with buttered French bread toast and fresh fruit, if desired. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

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Variations: For toppings, substitute tiny shrimp and minced parsley, crumbled cooked chorizo, shredded Jack cheese and chopped cilantro; flaked smoked salmon and fresh chopped dill; thinly sliced blanched asparagus and Parmesan cheese; chopped or thinly sliced drained tomatoes and crumbled cooked bacon or prosciutto. Add toppings sparingly so egg mixture can still puff.

SOUFFLED EGGS BENEDICT

4 eggs

1 tablespoon minced chives

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup shredded Fontina cheese

3 English muffins, split, buttered and toasted

3 slices ham, halved

Quick Hollandaise Sauce

Beat eggs until very frothy. Beat in chives and salt and pepper to taste. Fill 6 greased poached egg cups 2/3 full with egg mixture. Sprinkle cheese over tops.

Cover and cook according to manufacturer’s directions if using electric poacher, or until eggs have puffed and are cooked to desired doneness. To assemble, place 1 slice ham on each muffin half, top with egg puff and spoon Quick Hollandaise Sauce over each. Makes 3 servings.

Quick Hollandaise Sauce

3 egg yolks

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Dash salt

2 to 3 drops hot pepper sauce

1/2 cup hot melted butter

Place egg yolks, lemon juice, salt and hot pepper sauce in blender container. Blend on high about 20 seconds. With lid off (or center hole in lid open) and blender on high, very slowly pour hot melted butter into egg yolk mixture. Blend until mixture thickens and butter is used up. Keep warm over, but not touching, hot water until ready to use. Makes about 3/4 cup.

DANISH CHICKEN

4 chicken breasts halves, boned and skinned

4 (1/2-inch-thick, 3-inch-long) strips cream cheese with herbs and spices

1 egg

1 cup fine, soft bread crumbs

2 tablespoons oil

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

Salt, pepper

On underside of each breast, tuck 1 strip cream cheese beneath long, thin muscle (or make pocket with sharp knife). Tuck edges of meat under to form smooth oval.

In bowl, beat egg lightly. Dip chicken into egg, then coat with crumbs. Heat oil and butter in skillet. Brown chicken briefly on skin side 1 minute, then on underside another minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to baking pan, cheese side down. Bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

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Variation: Use chicken breasts with skin and bone. Loosen skin enough to tuck thick strips of cream cheese under it. Proceed as directed above, coating with egg and bread crumbs. Bake at 350 degrees 25 minutes.

RICOTTA-STUFFED PEPPERS

4 large firm green peppers

2 anchovy fillets, chopped

2/3 cup ricotta cheese

2 tablespoons grated Romano cheese

2 teaspoons chopped parsley

1/3 pound finely diced or ground cooked meat

1/4 cup bread crumbs

1 small onion, chopped

1 egg

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2/3 cup hot water

Wash peppers, then remove stems and seeds. In bowl, combine anchovy fillets, ricotta, Romano, parsley, meat, bread crumbs, onion and egg. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Stuff peppers with mixture. Arrange in baking dish, pour oil over and bake at 400 degrees 15 minutes. Blend tomato paste and hot water and add to peppers. Continue baking 10 to 15 minutes or until peppers are tender. Makes 4 servings.

STUFFED EGGPLANT FIESTA

2 small to medium eggplants

2 tablespoons oil

1 pound lean ground beef

1 clove garlic, chopped or crushed

1 (1-pound) can stewed tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Salt

1 cup cooked rice

1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

Sliced black olives

Cut eggplants into halves lengthwise and simmer in small amount boiling salted water until almost tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and cool. Scoop out pulp, leaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch pulp around edge and bottom of shells. Dice scooped out pulp.

Heat oil in skillet. Add beef and garlic and brown, breaking up meat with fork. Add tomatoes, hot pepper sauce and season to taste with salt. Remove from heat and mix in rice and eggplant pulp.

Spoon mixture into eggplant shells. Place in shallow baking pan and sprinkle with cheese and olives. Bake at 375 degrees 25 minutes or until heated through. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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BROCCOLI-SHRIMP PRIMAVERA

1 (10-ounce) package frozen broccoli with cheese sauce in pouch

2 ounces linguine

1/2 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 cup chopped tomato

1/4 cup dry white wine

6 ounces frozen cooked deveined shrimp, thawed

Cook broccoli in pouch according to package directions. Cook linguine according to package directions. Drain linguine.

Meanwhile, cook garlic in butter in large skillet until golden. Stir in tomato and wine. Simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Stir in cooked broccoli with sauce, linguine and shrimp. Cook until heated through. Makes 3 servings.

LAMB PATTIES WITH CURRANT SAUCE

1 1/2 pounds ground lamb

1 cup soft bread crumbs

1/4 cup milk

1 egg, beaten

1/4 teaspoon marjoram

Salt

1/2 cup red currant jelly

1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

Combine lamb, bread crumbs, milk, egg and marjoram. Season to taste with salt and mix well.

Shape into 6 patties about 3/4 inch thick. Place patties on broiler rack 2 inches from source of heat. Broil 8 to 10 minutes on 1 side. Turn and broil 6 to 8 minutes.

Heat jelly slowly until melted. Add orange peel. Serve over patties. Makes 6 servings.

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