The Art of Dealing With Catfish : Farm-raised catfish is the new darling of trendy chefs, who praise its mild flavor and versatility. Production has increased so it’s in groceries, too.

Catfish is fast on its way to becoming top dog in the seafood market. Scorned by some as a lowly scavenger fish, it has cleaned up its act to become a highly desirable product.

Responsible are the nation’s catfish farmers, who have transformed the bottom-feeding scavenger into an almost odorless, mild-flavored fish that chefs praise for its versatility.

The leader in this developing industry is Mississippi, which produces more than 85% of the supply. That is an impressive amount considering that some 212 million pounds of farm-raised catfish were produced in the United States in 1986. The Catfish Institute predicts that this year, production will exceed 240 million pounds, a phenomenal increase over the 5.7 million pounds of fish harvested in 1970.

The institute is a trade association founded by the catfish farmers and processors of the Mississippi Delta, where the industry is centered. In March, the institute launched its first national advertising campaign, allotting $2 million for ads that glorify the “fine, firm texture and delicate flavor” of farm-raised catfish and make clear that it is “rich in nutrients, virtually without cholesterol and fat.”

That same month, the catfish industry experienced a lucky break when the title of “America’s Best Seafood Chef of 1987” was awarded to the only competitor who submitted a catfish entree.

The Catfish Institute, which is headquartered in Belzoni, Miss., was founded to promote fish from that state, but industry members from all states can join the Catfish Farmers of America. The Catfish Journal, the official publication of the national organization, reports on such events as the group’s annual convention and the World Catfish Festival, which is highlighted by a catfish-eating contest and selection of a queen. This year’s festival took place in April in Belzoni.

Scheduled from June 13 to 15 is the national farm-raised catfish cooking contest, which will bring five finalists and two alternates to New Orleans. (The deadline for entries has passed. To obtain an application for next year’s contest, write: Catfish Farmers of America, P.O. Box 34, Jackson, Miss. 39205.)

Much of this is as new as the burgeoning industry. Although the catfish festival is 12 years old, the Catfish Institute and the Catfish Journal were only founded last year. The acceptability of catfish is so recent that Gene Hovis, the personable cook dispatched by the institute as a touring spokesman, has no catfish recipes in his just-published book, “Uptown Downhome Cooking.” (Little, Brown: $17.95)

A couple of years ago, people weren’t interested in catfish, Hovis said, but now it is on its way to becoming “the fish of the ‘90s.”

The fish that Hovis represents are raised in ponds of fresh spring water. Instead of randomly hunting food along the bottoms of rivers, streams or spring-fed lakes, they eat pellets composed of 92% soybean and corn and 8% vitamins, minerals, nutrients and fish meal.

Prompt processing after harvest also contributes to the fresh taste. The fish are transported to the processing plant live in tanks of spring water and are cleaned, trimmed for the market and flash frozen within 30 minutes. Since production is controlled, there are no seasonal fluctuations. Some fish are distributed whole but most go to market cleaned and cut into easy-to-use fillets and steaks.

‘A Sweeter Flavor’

Hovis prepared a couple of dishes in The Times Test Kitchen to show that farm-raised catfish is indeed virtually odorless as it cooks, a decided advantage when guests are present. “It has a sweeter flavor than the old-time Southern fish,” Hovis said as he bathed catfish steaks with a mustard-cream sauce and baked catfish fillets coated with ground pecans.

Born in Salisbury, N.C., Hovis grew up eating catfish once a week and enjoying it thanks to the resourcefulness of his mother. “She did it every way imaginable for us,” he said.

Today’s farm-raised catfish is delicate in flavor but firm enough to be easy to handle. “You can bake it, broil it, steam it, do it en papillote. It lends itself to any sauce,” Hovis said.

Hovis suggests experimenting with catfish ceviche, Cajun blackened catfish, pasta salad with catfish, cold skewered catfish in vinaigrette sauce and catfish steaks marinated with olive oil, rosemary, garlic and lemon juice and grilled over hickory chips. “It will become a staple very soon,” he said.

The following recipes include the two dishes that Hovis demonstrated. Additional recipes are available in a booklet put out by the Catfish Institute. For a copy, send a check or money order for $1.50 to the institute, Box 327, Department P, Belzoni, Miss. 39038.

PECAN CATFISH

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons milk

4 farm-raised catfish fillets

1 cup ground pecans

Combine mustard and milk in small bowl. Dip fillets in mustard mixture, then dip in ground pecans, coating thoroughly. Shake off excess nuts. Place fish on greased baking sheet. Bake at 500 degrees 10 to 12 minutes or until fish flakes. Makes 4 servings.

CATFISH WITH MUSTARD AND CREAM SAUCE

1 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 farm-raised catfish fillets

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Chopped parsley

Combine cream, mustard and pepper in large skillet. Stir to blend. Add fish in single layer. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until fish flakes. Remove fish from skillet and keep warm.

Add lemon juice to cream mixture. Boil over high heat until liquid is reduced by half or is thick enough to coat metal spoon. Spoon some of sauce onto each plate. Place fish on sauce. Garnish with chopped parsley. Makes 4 servings.

Note: For lighter sauce, replace cream with 1 cup low-fat milk or 1/2 cup milk and 1/2 cup white wine.

BROILED CATFISH FILLETS

4 farm-raised catfish fillets

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon lemon pepper

Lemon wedges

Sprinkle fillets with garlic salt and lemon pepper. Preheat broiler pan 5 minutes. Spray with non-stick coating. Place fish on broiler pan. Broil 3 inches from heat 4 to 6 minutes, until fish flakes easily. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.

SMOKY BROILED CATFISH

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons liquid wood-smoke flavoring

4 farm-raised catfish fillets or whole catfish

Combine soy sauce, lemon juice, garlic powder and liquid smoke in small bowl. Preheat broiler pan 5 minutes. Spray pan with non-stick coating. Place fish fillets on broiler pan. Brush with soy sauce mixture. Broil 3 inches from heat 4 to 6 minutes, basting occasionally with soy sauce mixture, until fish flakes easily.

If using whole catfish, brush with soy sauce mixture and broil 3 inches from heat 3 minutes, then turn over, brush with sauce and continue broiling 3 minutes, basting occasionally, until fish flakes easily. Makes 4 servings.

CATFISH CHOWDER

1/4 cup butter

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup sliced celery

4 cups diced, peeled potatoes

1 quart chicken broth

2 cups water

2 (8-ounce) cans whole-kernel corn, drained

4 farm-raised catfish fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 cup flour

1 cup milk

Salt, pepper

Chopped parsley

Heat 1 tablespoon butter in large stock pot. Add onions and celery and saute until tender. Add potatoes, chicken broth and water. Bring to boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Add corn and catfish. Simmer 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in small saucepan. Beat butter and flour together until smooth. Gradually whisk mixture into soup. Simmer 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in milk and heat thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley. Makes 10 servings.

CATFISH AND SHRIMP SOUP

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 bay leaf

1 quart water

1 cup dry white wine

1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice

1/2 pound shelled medium shrimp

2 farm-raised catfish fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Chopped cilantro or parsley

Lemon slices

Heat oil in large stock pot. Add onions and garlic and cook until onions are transparent. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and bay leaf. Cover and simmer 25 minutes. Add water, wine and clam juice. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 45 minutes.

Add shrimp, catfish, salt and pepper. Simmer 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Remove bay leaf. Garnish each serving with cilantro and lemon slices. Makes 8 servings.