Heavy on the Sauce : Onion Ring Loaf Top Dish at Rib Restaurant

The carpet at the new Tony Roma’s A Place for Ribs is a burgundy color, perhaps not quite as deep in shade as an inexpensive California red wine, but definitely darker than, say, barbecue sauce.

If ever a decor element had a purpose, this carpet does, because a veritable river of barbecue sauce gushes through this rib palace daily. The stuff is ubiquitous, and even if one orders one of the few dishes that doesn’t include it, one stands to absorb a certain amount through osmosis. The air is thick with the scent of it, some is splashed on the carpet, some dribbles down shirt fronts, more will be found smeared on wine lists that have been handled by unwiped fingers--but most goes down the throats of guests who seem quite happy to put it to its intended purpose.

Tony Roma’s took its time getting to San Diego (the franchised chain has more than 50 restaurants across the country, including several in Southern California), but when it finally got here, it arrived with a bang. It occupies very choice quarters in the new Promenade in Pacific Beach, and with its proximity to the water (no view, though), informal atmosphere and hearty servings, it already has proven to have mass appeal for the beach-bound. Dinner-hour waits are common.

Founded in North Miami

Roma’s, which was founded in North Miami in 1972 and spread nationwide after former Dallas Cowboy’s owner Clint Murchison Jr. bought the franchise rights in 1976, is famous for two things--ribs and onion ring loafs.

Ribs are hardly a novelty, and it is certain that San Diego already has more than its share of rib joints. The restaurant’s onion ring loafs are another story; they are an exceptional down-home treat and they may have had more to do with Tony Roma’s success than the carloads of ribs and oceans of barbecue sauce that over the years have been consumed as an accompaniment to them.

An onion ring loaf is a mass of battered onion rings squeezed into a wire basket and deep-fried until appealingly golden and crisp. The rings, of course, stick together in a loaf shape, to be pulled apart by eager fingers or, by more fastidious persons, cut into portions with knife and fork. (Based on several visits, the fastidious seem few and far between. This is finger food.) In either case, they are best when dipped into the accompanying bowl of barbecue sauce. The loaves arrive smoking hot--a fact appreciated in a city in which restaurants rarely serve food that is more than warm--and can burn the fingers as they pull apart in spaghetti-like strands. They are also greasy to the touch, but becoming somewhat sodden does seem part of the ritual of a barbecued rib meal.

The onion rings serve as an appetizer as well as a side dish, and probably do better in the former capacity than any of the other items offered as starters. The fried mozzarella cheese sticks are dull by nature, and are available at any number of inferior eateries. The same goes for the fried chicken nuggets. The barbecued shrimp-on-a-skewer ($4.95 as an appetizer, or $11.95 for a two-skewer entree) definitely should be avoided; a recent serving offered five small, mealy, stale-tasting shrimp. (One item that was not sampled but may be interesting is the onion soup, served only at lunch and priced at 75 cents if ordered by itself, but at only 5 cents if ordered with an entree.)

Meal-Sized Salads

The menu offers a couple of meal-sized salads but sticks primarily to meat, as in four kinds of ribs (available in combination and quantity on a handsome sampler plate for the truly hungry); barbecued chicken; swordfish and rib-eye steaks; a half-pound burger, and a barbecued beef brisket sandwich. All plates include cole slaw and a choice of “ranch style” beans, baked potato or french fried potatoes. The cole slaw is good and creamy and a truly necessary adjunct to the barbecued meats, since it so nicely cuts the richness and spiciness. The french fries are perfectly acceptable as long as one admits that fried potatoes that have not first been parted from their skins are acceptable. The recipe for the “ranch style” beans must have originated on a ranch where the only available seasoning was chili powder, because the beans reek of the stuff and have no other flavor. Some people like them quite a bit.

As mentioned, the ribs come in four varieties (enough to tickle a rib-fancier’s fancy?). The first choice is “our original baby back ribs,” choice ribs cut from the tenderloin; then there are Danish baby back ribs; “St. Louis style ribs,” which are spareribs, and “bountiful beef ribs,” full-sized specimens that are heavy on the meat.

The Danish ribs are tasty and tender, if not as meaty as the “original” baby back ribs. Good comments can be made about the St. Louis-style specimens, and the beef ribs, if inelegant, are satisfying. In general terms, all are good, though not the best in memory by any means. Each has been basted with plenty of barbecue sauce, a penetrating brew that is less spicy than some but still every bit as pungent and piquant as it needs to be.

An order of barbecued chicken was perfectly satisfactory, and would make the obvious choice for someone who holds ribs in moderate esteem. The barbecued beef sandwich was tried twice, with interesting results: The first time around, the meat was tough, which is inexcusable in barbecued beef, and the hamburger roll was stale. On the next visit, the meat was as tender and flavorful as could be desired, and the roll quite fresh. So it seems that you pays your money and you takes your chances, as the old saying goes.

Desserts come from outside suppliers; the great specialty is a creamy cheesecake, which sports a nice lemon flavor and is relatively light. Nothing heavy would be welcome after a meal here.

Party time at Night

The mood at lunch is fairly calm and businesslike, but at least on some evenings the management puts an effort into engineering fun. One night, for example, a balloon artist constructed crazy hats for a large party, which not only was privileged to enjoy the distinction of being silly with the management’s blessing, but was expected to waltz around the room singing “Happy Birthday” to those patrons who requested the honor. It is easy enough to exempt one’s table from the goings-on if so desired.

The prices seem reasonable enough for the quality, portions and service. Rib plates at lunch range from $5.95 to $11.95, at dinner from $8.95 to $11.95. Other entrees are priced comparably, and sandwiches and salads are in the $4 range.

TONY ROMA’S.

4110 Mission Blvd., Pacific Beach.

272-7427.

Lunch and dinner served daily.

Credit cards accepted.