super sides

The Fourth of July weekend is one during which most of us go back to our roots. It’s a time for backyard picnics, bunting-filled nostalgia and parade watching.

Whether your holiday picnic is built around a batch of hot dogs and hamburgers tossed onto the backyard grill, a big platter of home-fried chicken or even a good thick steak, it’s what goes with it that counts. Change the meat course at will . . . but a genuine nostalgic Fourth of July celebration just won’t count unless there’s at least one big bowl of crisp coleslaw and a steaming pot of baked beans. Other accoutrements also are standard at most friendly gatherings of this sort. Potato salad, fruit salad, deviled eggs--all are foods that, in name at least, are standard American picnic fare.

Standard as they may be, however, there’s no need for the flavors to be ho-hum. So if you’re in a rut when it comes to whipping out some slaws and beans and salads, the following suggestions will add a touch of the unexpected to an otherwise simple and prosaic alfresco menu.

The nicest part about most of these popular side dishes is that they can--and usually should--be made ahead . . . some to chill, and others, such as the beans, to mellow.

So what’s new about today’s suggestions? Well, for one thing we’ve updated a slaw or two by combining the flavors of several different cuisines with the basic ingredients found in classic slaws. We added shiitake mushrooms, Chinese peas and water chestnuts to red and green cabbage and then tossed the mixture with an elegant rice vinegar and ginger-flavored dressing for one slaw that was beautiful to both see and sample. The result was a big hit with our tasters.

Candied walnuts, apricots and oranges were used to flavor still another slaw that also drew a favorable reception. A baked bean recipe that earned kudos from our tasters combined the beans with apples and onions, producing a sweetness that was greatly enhanced by a spicy touch provided by horseradish and chili powder.

Even deviled eggs were given a special treatment in honor of the holiday when we began making plans for a celebration. Avocado and green onions were mixed with the egg yolk, and a bit of pickle juice added flavor to one version of this popular picnic item.

All of these recipes are simply variations on old favorites, but we think they’re variations well worth trying over the Fourth. With these suggestions, your annual picnic may look the same, but it certainly will have a different flavor.

MIDWESTERN BAKED BEANS

1 pound small dry white beans

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon horseradish

1/2 pound ham, cubed

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 cup catsup

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 tablespoons oil

3 onions, sliced

2 cups sliced apples

Soak beans overnight in water to cover. Drain. Add 10 cups fresh water and salt. Bring to boil. Simmer until tender about 1 hour. Add additional water, if needed.

Drain, reserving 2 cups liquid. Add reserved liquid to beans along with brown sugar, garlic, horseradish, ham, tomato sauce, catsup, mustard and chili powder.

Heat oil in skillet and saute onions and apples until tender. Stir into beans. Pour into 3-quart baking dish or bean pot. Bake at 325 degrees about 1 hour or until hot and bubbly. Makes about 8 servings.

Note: Beans may be made a day or two ahead and reheated before serving.

SPINACH SLAW

8 cups shredded spinach leaves

2 cups mixed alfalfa and bean sprouts

3 yellow squash, cut into crinkle-cut slices

1 cup small pitted black olives

1/2 red onion, cut julienne

10 slices bacon, crisply fried and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic, crushed

5 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt, pepper

Combine spinach, sprouts, squash, olives, red onion and bacon in large bowl. Heat garlic, vinegar, sugar and olive oil in small saucepan. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss into spinach mixture. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

APRICOT-ORANGE-WALNUT SLAW

6 apricots, halved and seeded

1/2 cup sugar

10 to 12 walnut halves

6 cups shredded cabbage

4 oranges, peeled and cubed

Dressing

Salt

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Poach apricot halves 3 minutes in small amount of water. Drain and cool.

Heat sugar over low heat in skillet, without stirring, until caramelized. Remove from heat and quickly dip each walnut half into caramel to coat. Set walnuts aside to cool.

Combine cabbage, oranges and apricots in bowl. Toss with Dressing. Season to taste with salt. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and candied walnut halves. Makes 6 servings. Dressing

1/4 cup oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons vinegar

Dash black pepper

Combine oil, salt, sugar, vinegar and pepper to blend. Chill, if desired.

ORIENTAL SLAW

4 cups shredded green cabbage

1 cup shredded red cabbage

1 cup sliced fresh shiitake mushrooms

1 cup diagonally sliced Chinese pea pods

1 (8-ounce) can water chestnuts, drained and sliced

1/2 cup diagonally sliced green onions

1 cup whole almonds, toasted

Dressing

Toss together green and red cabbages, mushrooms, Chinese pea pods, water chestnuts, green onions and almonds. Toss with Dressing. Chill well. Makes 8 to 10 servings. Dressing

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup oil

6 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 to 3 teaspoons minced ginger root

2 to 3 teaspoons sesame oil

Salt

Combine sugar, pepper, oil, vinegar, garlic, ginger and sesame oil. Season to taste with salt. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

GREEN DEVILED EGGS

8 hard-cooked eggs

1 ripe medium-size avocado

4 small green onions, finely chopped

Seasoned salt

Sweet pickle juice

Shell eggs and halve lengthwise. Remove yolks and mash. Peel and mash avocado. Add to yolks with green onions. Season to taste with seasoned salt. Add small amount of sweet pickle juice to moisten. Fill egg white halves with mixture. Makes 16 servings.

DILLY POTATO SALAD

6 cups cubed potatoes

1 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup chopped green onions

1 teaspoon dill seeds

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons seasoned salt

1 cup shredded carrots

1 unpeeled cucumber, scored, seeded and sliced

Spinach or lettuce leaves

Cook potatoes just until tender. Drain and keep warm. Combine buttermilk, mayonnaise, green onions, dill seeds, pepper and seasoned salt. Add to warm potatoes, carrots and cucumber. Toss lightly. Chill and serve on spinach leaves. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

GRILLED HERBED CORN

10 to 12 ears corn in shucks

1 cup butter or margarine, softened

1 shallot, minced

1/4 cup packed fresh tarragon or basil leaves

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3 drops hot pepper sauce

Rinse corn in shucks well. Pull shucks away from corn, but leave attached at bottom. Strip silk away from corn and shucks and discard. Pull shucks back over corn and place corn in large pot cold salted water. Let stand at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine butter and shallot, blending well. Mince tarragon leaves and stir into butter with lemon juice and hot pepper sauce.

When ready to grill corn, drain well. Pull shucks away from corn and brush kernels with herb butter. Pull shucks back around buttered corn and fasten at top with strip of corn husk or water-soaked string. Place corn on grill about 5 inches from coals and grill, turning frequently, about 20 minutes or until corn kernel pierces easily with fork. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

DAISY HOT POTATO SALAD

Instant mashed potato for 5 to 6 servings

1/3 cup diced carrot

1/3 cup creamy salad dressing or mayonnaise

1/4 cup minced onion

1/4 cup diced green pepper

2 tablespoons prepared mustard

Salt, pepper

Prepare mashed potatoes according to package directions. Stir in carrot, dressing, onion, green pepper and mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well and reheat, if necessary. Serve piping hot. Makes 5 to 6 servings.

DELUXE DEVILED EGGS

6 hard-cooked eggs

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup flaked canned salmon

1/8 teaspoon curry powder

2 teaspoons prepared mustard

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Salt, pepper

Paprika

Shell eggs, then cut in halves lengthwise and remove yolks. Mash yolks and mix with sour cream, salmon, curry powder, mustard, lemon juice and Worcestershire and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pile mixture into whites and garnish with paprika. Makes 12 halves.

MOLDED POTATO SALAD

1/4 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons Italian-style dressing

2 cups diced cooked potatoes

2 hard-cooked eggs, diced

1 cup cottage cheese

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/3 cup diced black olives

1/3 cup sliced radishes

1/3 cup chopped green onions

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 (6-ounce) package lemon gelatin

3 cups boiling water

1/4 cup vinegar

Green pepper rings, halved

Pimiento strips

Lettuce leaves

Mix sour cream and dressing. Add potatoes and eggs and let stand about 15 minutes. Stir in cottage cheese, celery, olives, radishes, onions and salt.

Dissolve gelatin in boiling water. Add vinegar. To 2/3 cup mixture add 3 tablespoons additional water and pour into 1 1/2- to 2-quart mold. Chill until slightly thickened. Arrange halved green pepper rings and pimiento strips in thickened gelatin and chill until set but not firm.

Chill remaining gelatin until very thick. Whip until fluffy, then fold in potato salad. Turn into mold and chill until firm. Unmold onto lettuce. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

FRIJOLES BORRACHOS

(Drunken Beans)

4 cups pinto beans

1 tablespoon baking soda

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

4 slices bacon, chopped

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 (12-ounce) can beer

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground oregano

Salt

Cover beans with water and soak overnight in large Dutch oven. Drain, then add enough water to cover beans by 1 inch. Bring to boil and boil 15 minutes. Reduce heat and slowly add baking soda. Stir until mixture foams to top of pot, about 1 minute.

Quickly drain beans and rinse in colander. Return beans to rinsed pot. Add onions, garlic, bacon and enough water to cover beans by 2 inches. Cover pot and cook over low heat 2 to 4 hours or until beans are very tender.

Add sugar, beer, chili powder, cumin and oregano during last 30 minutes cooking time. Season to taste with salt. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

Note: Beans may be cooked and refrigerated 1 or 2 days ahead. Reheat to serve.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times