New Fresh and Tasty Menu Ideas

A few months ago I was one of several hundred members of the International Assn. of Cooking Professionals who attended a showcase of the top chefs in Los Angeles.

The celebrated chefs cooked hors d’oeuvres while we sampled a selection of wines from distinguished California vineyards. We roamed from stand to stand, tasting a tidbit of this and a tidbit of that. With chefs from a dozen culinary backgrounds, the only link in this culinary odyssey seemed to be the freshness and originality for which California is famous.

Here are just a few of the many ideas I encountered, deliberately chosen so they can be made in advance. All hold well at room temperature with one exception--a fritter of cod stuffed with Smithfield ham and seasoned with roasted Sichuan pepper and salt. The cod cubes and batter can be prepared ahead, but like all deep-fried dishes, they are best served fresh and piping hot.

As I bit into a neat little roll of eggplant, I wondered what was inside until I recognized my favorite creamy mozzarella spiced with sweet red pepper and generously drenched in olive oil. The rolls marinate a day or two with seasonings that include balsamic vinegar, ending wonderfully redolent and rich.

Also presented as a roll was an elegant combination of homemade gravlax (raw salmon pickled with salt and dill) filled with a mousse of smoked salmon and cream cheese. A quick dip in caviar adds the final touch of color and luxury.

A simple little skewer of marinated shrimp and mushrooms took a while to re-create until I hit just the right combination of olive oil, wine and lemon juice backed by bay leaf and plenty of garlic. After cooking, the shrimp and mushrooms rest in this marinade, and I’m sure other ingredients such as cauliflower or baby onions would take happily to the same treatment.

This all adds up to quite a feast. In fact, next time we have friends to dinner, I plan to make just one or two of the recipes and offer them as an appetizer.

Serve them with the Cheese Brioche Bread I’ve added to this menu to balance the impact of so many complex flavors.

Add to them a good California wine or two and you’ll have a wonderful party.

CALIFORNIA APPETIZER PARTY FOR 25

Piquant Rolls of Eggplant With Mozzarella

Smoked Salmon Mousse With Gravlax and Caviar

Shrimp and Mushrooms With Lemon

Deep - Fried Rock Cod Fillet With Ham

Cheese Brioche Bread

Suggested wine: White Zinfandel or other blush wine

Up to three months ahead, make roasted salt and pepper, then store in airtight container. Bake cheese brioche, then freeze.

Up to four days ahead, broil eggplant. Marinate in refrigerator.

Up to one day ahead, cook shrimp and mushrooms. Marinate at least 2 hours. Assemble eggplant rolls, then refrigerate. Finish salmon and gravlax rolls, then refrigerate. Finish shrimp and mushrooms, then refrigerate.

Up to six hours ahead, prepare cod for deep-frying. Chill, then make batter. Thaw cheese bread. Chill wine.

About one to two hours before serving, arrange all cold hors d’oeuvres in lines or cartwheels on trays. Cover with plastic wrap. Leave at room temperature. Slice cheese bread. Toast, if desired.

During party deep-fry cod cubes and serve immediately.

PIQUANT ROLLS OF EGGPLANT AND MOZZARELLA

4 small eggplants

1/4 cup coarse salt

1 cup olive oil

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 pound mozzarella cheese

Trim stem and blossom ends of eggplants. Cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch-thick slices. Scatter salt over both sides. Leave eggplant 30 minutes to draw out juices.

Heat grill or broiler. Rinse salt and liquid from eggplant. Pat dry with paper towels. Brush with olive oil. Grill 3 to 5 minutes until browned. Turn, then brush again with oil. Brown other side.

Arrange eggplant slices in layers in deep dish, seasoning each layer with garlic, pepper, vinegar and remaining oil. Cover and let eggplant marinate in refrigerator at least 6 hours or up to 3 days.

To finish, cut mozzarella cheese in 2x3/8-inch sticks. Lift out eggplant, letting marinade drain back into dish. Place mozzarella stick on one end of eggplant slice, then roll it up. Cut into 1-inch rolls. Secure each with wood pick.

Pack rolls back into dish, wood picks upward. Rolls can be assembled 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Let rolls come to room temperature before serving. Makes 50 to 60 appetizer slices or 4 to 6 servings if served alone.

Note: Fruity extra-virgin olive oil is ideal for this dish.

SMOKED SALMON MOUSSE WITH GRAVLAX AND CAVIAR

1 (3-pound) salmon fillet

1/4 cup coarse salt

1/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 large bunch fresh dill

10 ounces smoked salmon

6 ounces cream cheese

1/2 cup whipping cream, about

Salt, pepper

2 ounces caviar

To make gravlax, lay salmon fillet on tray. Season both sides with salt, sugar and peppercorns.

Spread large piece plastic wrap on work surface and place salmon skin side down. Sprinkle with any remaining seasonings. Place dill sprigs on top. Wrap fillet tightly with plastic wrap. Place in shallow dish with weighted plate on top. Refrigerate 2 days, turning fillet every 8 hours.

To make mousse, puree smoked salmon in food processor with cream cheese. With motor running, pour in enough whipping cream to make mixture of spreadable consistency. Taste mousse and add salt and pepper to taste. Mousse can be refrigerated up to 2 days.

To finish, wipe gravlax with paper towels to remove dill and seasonings. Cut salmon into thinnest possible diagonal slices, leaving behind skin.

Spread spoonful of smoked salmon mousse on each slice of gravlax, then roll up. Trim ends of rolls and cut in halves if they are very long. Dip one end in caviar to coat lightly. Rolls can be refrigerated up to 1 day.

Shortly before serving, pierce rolls with wood picks. Arrange on platter. Let rolls come to room temperature. Makes 50 to 60 appetizer pieces, or 6 servings if served alone.

Note: For less-expensive version, sea trout and smoked brook trout can be substituted for salmon, with chopped chives instead of caviar.

SHRIMP AND MUSHROOMS WITH LEMON

2 pounds mushrooms, stems removed

3 cups olive oil

4 bay leaves

2 whole cloves

6 cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup lemon juice

1/2 cup parsley sprigs

Salt, pepper

2 quarts water

Zest of 1 lemon

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined

Heat mushrooms, olive oil, 2 bay leaves, cloves and garlic until boiling, stirring constantly. Reduce heat. Simmer until mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes. Add wine, lemon juice and parsley. Simmer 2 minutes longer. Let mushrooms cool, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bring water, remaining 2 bay leaves, lemon zest, 2 teaspoons salt and peppercorns to boil. Add shrimp. Poach just until firm and pink, about 2 minutes. Drain shrimp. Add to mushroom mixture, stirring to coat shrimp with marinade. Marinate mixture in refrigerator at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.

To finish, drain shrimp and mushrooms, reserving a little marinade. On wood picks, spear mushrooms with shrimp curled around them. Pack in serving dish, wood picks upward. Moisten with reserved marinade. Shrimp and mushrooms can be refrigerated up to 24 hours. Allow to come to room temperature before serving. Makes about 60 appetizer pieces, or 4 to 6 servings if served alone.

DEEP-FRIED COD FILLET STUFFED WITH HAM

2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns

1/4 cup coarse salt

2 pounds thick cod fillets

1 (4-ounce) thick slice Smithfield ham

1 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil

Oil for deep-frying

To make roasted salt and pepper, place peppercorns in small heavy skillet. Scatter with salt. Heat gently, stirring occasionally, until peppercorns release aroma and start to smoke, 8 to 12 minutes. Let cool. Crush mixture in mortar with pestle, or seal in paper bag and roll with rolling pin. Roasted salt and pepper keeps indefinitely, if tightly sealed.

Cut cod fillets into 1x1x1/2-inch cubes. Cut 1/2-inch slit on one side of each cube. Cut ham into 1x3/8-inch strips. Insert strips into slits cut in fish.

To make batter, combine flour, baking powder and salt in bowl. Make well in center. Add water. Stir, gradually drawing in flour to make smooth batter. Stir in sesame oil. Fish cubes and batter can be refrigerated up to 6 hours.

To finish, heat oil for deep-frying to 375 degrees. Dip fish cubes in batter to coat evenly. Deep-fry, a few at a time, 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Fish is best served at once, but can be kept warm in oven with door open for up to 15 minutes.

Spear cubes with wood picks. Arrange on platter covered with napkin or paper doily. Place bowl of roasted salt and pepper in center for dipping. Makes 40 to 50 appetizers, or 4 to 6 servings if served alone.

CHEESE BRIOCHE BREAD

1 cup milk

1/2 cup butter

2 teaspoons sugar

5 cups flour, more if needed

3 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce

2 (1-ounce) cakes compressed yeast, or 2 (1/2-ounce) packages dry yeast

6 eggs

1 1/2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese

2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Heat milk, butter and sugar until butter melts. Let cool to lukewarm. Sift flour into bowl with 2 teaspoons salt. Make well in center. Add warm milk and hot pepper sauce. Crumble or sprinkle yeast on top. Leave 5 minutes or until yeast is dissolved. Add 4 eggs. Mix central ingredients with fingers, gradually drawing in flour to make smooth dough. Dough should be soft and slightly sticky. If necessary, work in a little more flour.

Turn dough onto floured work surface. Knead 5 to 7 minutes until smooth and elastic, adding more flour if it sticks. Or knead dough in electric mixer with dough hook. Place dough in warm place to rise 45 to 60 minutes or until doubled.

Butter 2 (8x4-inch) loaf pans. Knead dough lightly. Work in Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses. Divide dough in half. Shape into 2 loaves. Place in pans.

Beat remaining 2 eggs with remaining 1 teaspoon salt for glaze. Brush loaves with glaze. Cover loaves with damp cloth. Leave again in warm place 45 to 60 minutes until dough reaches top of pans.

Brush loaves again with glaze. Slash tops with scissors. Bake at 400 degrees 25 to 35 minutes until brown and sounds hollow when tapped on bottom. Transfer loaves to rack to cool. Cheese bread is best eaten day of baking, or it can be frozen. Makes 2 loaves.