COOKING & ENTERTAINING WITH STYLE : CONNOISSEURS’ CHOICES

Our 14th-annual wine tasting--of Cabernets and Chardonnays at Alexander Valley Vineyards--uncovered some surprising but highly satisfying selections

The pleasures of wine are subjective. Opinions will vary, sparked by taste remembrances, mood, moment and knowledge. Pour a “classic” Cabernet into a delicate, cut-crystal goblet or into the most humble of tumblers and reactions will differ--even among wine professionals and devotees. It’s impossible to eliminate wholly personal taste. And that’s not a bad thing.

For the Los Angeles Times’ 14th annual wine tasting, our jury of wine professionals turned its attention to two notable wines, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, focusing on a carefully screened selection of candidate California wines that included medal-winners from the state’s leading competitions and heralded newcomers.

Gathered to evaluate 103 wines at Harry and Maggie Wetzel’s Alexander Valley Vineyards in Healdsburg were: Heidi Peterson Barrett, wine maker, Buehler Vineyards; William Bond, consumer connoisseur; Alison Green, wine maker, Firestone Vineyards; Eric Hansen, hotel specialist, Robert Mondavi and Vichon wineries; Ben Lane, wine broker, Wine Futures Exchange Inc.; Jean Leon, owner, La Scala Restaurant; Jerry Luper, wine maker, Rutherford Hill Winery; Michael Martini, wine maker, Louis M. Martini Winery; Robert Mondavi, chairman of the board, Robert Mondavi Winery; Philip Togni, owner, Philip Togni Vineyard; Steve Wallace, wine merchant; Elaine Wellesley, owner and wine maker, Quail Ridge; Eric Wente, president, Wente Bros.; Hank Wetzel III, co-owner and wine maker, Alexander Valley Vineyards.

The UC Davis 20-point evaluation system was used: wines considered outstanding were ranked between 17 and 20 points, sound commercial 13 to 16, commercial with noticeable defect 9 to 12, common, poor 6 to 8 and unsatisfactory 1 to 5.

Cabernet Sauvignon is easily the world’s most highly prized grape, responsible for the great clarets of Bordeaux and the best red wines of California. The grape grows well in nearly all of our state’s wine regions, excelling in areas of moderate warmth and coolness. The wines are astringent in their youth, but with classic aging in 50-gallon oak barrels they soften in taste and develop unique bouquets, at times suggesting rose petals, at others herbal or with hints of cedar. Choice examples have the potential of profound improvement with proper cellar age, arriving at the balanced maturity that justifies the grape’s extravagant reputation.

Chardonnay is the most elegant of white-wine grapes, responsible for the great white wines of Burgundy, Le Montrachet and Meursault, all Chablis, Pouilly-Fuisse and Champagne. But it is the changing vinification of the grape and the differing theories held by wine makers concerning moment of harvest, fermentation, aging and marketing that is making news. It is a matter of general knowledge in the California wine country that many editions of Chardonnay wines were allowed too much time in new French oak barrels, extracting from the wood excessive amounts of vanillin and other aromatic elements that tended to obliterate the natural fruit qualities of the grape in the wine’s taste and bouquet. After serious studies of California and French wines of Chardonnay origins, it was generally believed that those big, blockbuster wines were taking a wrong direction, and a swing towards more gentle wines in the Meursault style set in. The current tasting would indicate that, in many cases, the wines are now too light and gentle.

In no other wine, perhaps, are there so many varying styles. All of the top 10 place winners are “outstanding” in quality but the styles may be quite different . The adventure in Chardonnay is finding the ones you most enjoy. If you’re a Chardonnay lover, the future is bright. California examples continue to win in landmark, comparative tastings over fine French titles, and for value, cannot be bested.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON RANKINGS

(Ties in alphabetical order)

ZACA MESA 1983 American Reserve. $9.75. 16.7. Produced and bottled by Zaca Mesa Winery, Los Olivos. Flowery bouquet, long, elegant and well-balanced wine, very drinkable.

BUEHLER VINEYARDS 1984. $10.50. 16.4. Grown, produced and bottled by Buehler Cellars, St. Helena. Enticingly dark and rich, berries in the bouquet, a wine of positive promise.

JORDAN VINEYARD & WINERY 1983 Alexander Valley Estate Bottling. $22. 16.4. Produced and bottled by Jordan Winery, Healdsburg. Wonderful aromas of black cherry, evergreens, certain to age splendidly.

ROBERT KEENAN 1984 Napa Valley, Estate Bottled. $13.50. 16.4. Produced and bottled by Robert Keenan Winery, St. Helena. Deep garnet color, good breed and substance, smooth and complete.

CHRISTIAN BROTHERS 1984 Napa Valley, Estate. $6.50. 16.3.Produced and bottled by the Christian Brothers, St. Helena. Well-balanced wine of subdued bouquet, and true Cabernet character.

CLOS du BOIS 1982 Alexander Valley, Briarcrest Vineyard. $14. 16.2. Grown, produced and bottled by Clos du Bois, Healdsburg. Good, rich wine, cedar in the nose, deep garnet color, some berryness.

RAYMOND 1982 Napa Valley, Private Reserve, Estate. $12. 16.2. Grown, produced and bottled by Raymond Vineyard & Cellar, St. Helena. A wine-maker panelist writes: “Bravo!” for this intriguing, complex claret.

BUENA VISTA 1984 Carneros-Sonoma Estate. $10. 16.1. Produced and bottled by Buena Vista Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma. Jewel-dark color, ripe fruit aromas; wine of excellent potential.

WILLIAM HILL 1984 Napa Valley Reserve. $15. 16.1. Grown, cellared and bottled by William Hill Winery, Napa. Flavorful wine, fruity bouquet, needing time to round out its full character.

FIRESTONE VINEYARD 1983 Santa Ynez. $12. 16.0. Grown, produced and bottled by Firestone Vineyard, Los Olivos. Creamy smooth, with a complex of savors in taste, aroma and bouquet.

GUENOC WINERY 1983 Vintners Selection. $18. 16.0. Produced and bottled by Guenoc Winery, Middletown. Velvety-rich, ripe wine with the fine intrigue of oak.

RUTHERFORD HILL 1982 Napa Valley. $11. 16.0. Produced and bottled by Rutherford Hill Winery, Rutherford. Hints of fruit and wood in the bouquet, jewel color.

BEAULIEU VINEYARDS 1984 Rutherford, Napa Valley. Estate Bottled. $10.70. 15.9. Produced and bottled by Beaulieu Vineyards, Rutherford. Woodsy bouquet with peppery aromas, well-made, promising wine.

BEAULIEU VINEYARDS 1982 Georges de Latour Private Reserve. $24. 15.9. Produced and bottled by Beaulieu Vineyards, Rutherford. Silky finesse, ripe Cabernet flavors, long finish.

GRGICH HILLS 1982 Napa Valley. $17. 15.9. Produced and bottled by Grgich Hills Cellar, Rutherford. Alluringly deep and dark garnet color, good cherry aromas, oak hints.

GUENOC WINERY 1983 Lake County. $8.75. 15.9. Produced and bottled by Guenoc Winery, Middletown. Inviting varietal bouquet, complexity of wood and fruit with early maturity in view.

LOUIS M. MARTINI 1981 California-Special Selection. $18. 15.9. Monte Rosso Vineyard. Grown, produced and bottled by Louis M. Martini, St. Helena. Truly California Cabernet of splendid promise with further aging.

SAM J. SEBASTIANI 1984 Sonoma, 58% Napa. $11.50. 15.9. Cellared and bottled by SJS, Sonoma. A rich intensity of berryness, leading to rich but short wine; dark ruby color.

BURGESS CELLARS 1983 Napa Valley Vintners Selection. $16.95. 15.8. Produced and bottled by Burgess Cellars, St. Helena. Rich, well-balanced, well-made, deserving higher score.

SIMI 1982 Sonoma County. $11. 15.8. Produced and bottled by Simi Winery Co., Healdsburg. Inviting berry bouquet with spicy overtones; age will enhance it well.

GUNDLACH-BUNDSCHU 1983 Rhinefarms Vineyard. Estate Bottled. $11. 15.7. Produced and bottled by Gundlach-Bundschu Winery, Sonoma Valley. Of lighter style, but splendid texture, the nose not yet opened.

MONTICELLO CELLARS 1984 Jefferson Cuvee. $10.50. 15.7. Made and bottled by Monticello Cellars, Napa Valley, Napa. A rich fullness in the mouth, still tannic, but with a rich potential.

JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS 1983 Napa Valley. $12.75. 15.6. Produced and bottled by Joseph Phelps Vineyards, St. Helena. A modest bouquet leads to a silky-smooth wine of minty, chocolate tastes.

PINE RIDGE 1984 Napa Valley-Rutherford Cuvee. $14. 15.6. Produced and bottled by Pine Ridge Winery, Napa. Round, soft, already well-balanced, for early enjoyment.

CHARDONNAY RANKINGS

(Ties in alphabetical order)

KENDALL-JACKSON 1985 Proprietor’s Reserve. $16. 16.4. Produced and bottled by Kendall-Jackson Vineyard, Lakeport. Beautifully balanced; ready for immediate enjoyment or age enrichment.

FETZER VINEYARDS 1985 California Barrel Select. $8.50. 16.2. Produced and bottled by Fetzer Vineyards, Redwood Valley. Fruity wine, gracefully blossoming, pale gold and refreshing.

CHATEAU BOUCHAINE 1984 Napa Valley Los Carneros. $19. 16.2. Produced and bottled by Chateau Bouchaine Vineyards, Napa. Lush varietal richness, with a good balance of French oak and ripe fruit.

CRESTON MANOR 1985 San Luis Obispo, Paragon Vineyards. $9.95. 16.2. Produced and bottled by Creston Manor Vineyards & Winery, Creston. Silken accents, excellent balance, good body of flavor.

SIMI WINERY 1983 Sonoma County-Reserve. $22.50. 16.2. Produced and bottled by Simi Winery, Healdsburg. Classically elegant, in the Meursault style.

CALLAWAY 1985 Temecula “Calla-Lees.” $9.25. 16.0. Produced and bottled by Callaway Vineyard and Winery, Temecula. Soft, lyric smoothness; the “toastiness” suggests oak, but the wine never touched wood.

GRGICH HILLS CELLAR 1984 Napa Valley. $15. 16.0. Produced and bottled by Grgich Hills Cellar, Rutherford. Oak and fruit in a very stylish wine, with a most pleasing and long aftertaste.

VICHON WINERY 1985 Napa Valley. $15. 16.0. Produced and bottled by Vichon Winery, Oakville. Brilliant, pale, golden wine, an edge of fine oak in bouquet.

DOMAIN SAN MARTIN 1985 Central Coast. $7.50. 15.9. Produced and bottled by San Martin Winery, San Martin. Intensely full-flavored wine of ripe fruit suggesting peaches; good balance.

BABCOCK VINEYARDS 1985 Santa Ynez Valley Estate Bottled. $11.25. 15.8. Produced and bottled by Babcock Vineyards Lompoc. A pleasant edge of oak over fruit; rather soft in acidity, stylish and well-made.

BUENA VISTA 1984 Carneros-Sonoma Valley Reserve. $15. 15.8. Grown, produced and bottled by Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma. A good balance of oak not overriding the berry and fruit qualities.

CHATEAU MONTELENA 1985 Alexander Valley. $16. 15.8. Produced and bottled by Chateau Montelena Winery, Calistoga. Textbook perfection brought many high scores for this lovely wine.

JEPSON VINEYARDS 1985 Mendocino. $12. 15.8. Produced and bottled by Jepson Vineyards, Ukiah. Another lovely wine with wood and fruit in lyrical balance.

BYRON VINEYARD AND WINERY 1985 Santa Barbara County-Reserve. $13. 15.7. Produced and bottled by Byron Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria. A masterfully made wine, smartly styled with oak in control; some fruit.

WENTE BROS. 1985 Arroyo Seco-Reserve. $11.50. 15.7. Grown, produced and bottled by Wente Bros. Livermore. Almost exotic, with clean fruity bouquet and stylish, though subdued, use of fine French oak.

IRON HORSE 1985 Green Valley, Sonoma County Estate. $12.75. 15.6. Grown, produced and bottled by Iron Horse Vineyards, Sebastopol. Pale golden, wine in Chablis style; soft bouquet.

ROBERT MONDAVI 1985 Napa Valley. $14. 15.6. Produced and bottled by Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville. Cited by several panelists for stylish elegance.

SAINTSBURY 1985 Napa Valley-Carneros. $11. 15.6. Produced and bottled by Saintsbury, Napa. Delectable Chardonnay of mellow balance, buttery richness.

M.G. VALLEJO 1986 California. $4.49. 15.6. Vinted and bottled by M. G. Vallejo, Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley. Remarkable value for an exceptionally well-made wine of clean varietal character.

CHRISTIAN BROTHERS 1984 Napa Valley. $7.95. 15.5. Produced and bottled by The Christian Brothers, St. Helena. Buttery, almost pineapple-coconut hints in bouquet; needs time.

CONCANNON 1985 Livermore. $11. 15.5. Produced and bottled by Concannon Vineyards, Livermore. Floral hints in the bouquet, with overlay of butterscotch in middle-body.

FISHER VINEYARDS 1985 Sonoma-Coach Insignia. $15. 15.5. Produced and bottled by Fisher Vineyards, Sonoma County, Santa Rosa. A fine wine of refined style, elegance.

RODNEY STRONG 1984 Chalk Hill Vineyard. $10. 15.5. Grown, produced and bottled by Rodney Strong Vineyards, Windsor. Oak plays a background role in this rich, mouth-filling wine.

FREEMARK ABBEY 1984 Napa Valley. $14. 15.4. Produced and bottled by Freemark Abbey, St. Helena. Complex aromas; hints of oak; lush with ripe fruit.

CHARLES F. SHAW 1984 Napa Valley. $13.50. 15.4. Produced and bottled by Charles F. Shaw Winery, St. Helena. Many 17s and 18s for this Chardonnay with fruit and wood in elegant balance.

SILVERADO 1985 Napa Valley. $18. 15.4. Grown, produced and bottled by Silverado Vineyards, Napa. Light golden wine, crisp and clean, well-made.

WINE TASTING PRODUCED BY GRICEL CRISTINA SANABRIA AND JAMES WILLETT