HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING : A STAND-UP AFFAIR : Three Caterers Put Southern California Punch Into Traditional Holiday Parties

In Southern California, we can toast the holidays while wearing swim suits, warmed by Santa Ana winds rather than bourbon. We can attend three or more gatherings a night without fear of snowdrifts blocking our way.

Today’s holiday gathering strongly reflects California’s current values and sense of personal well being. Pack up the cheese dip and chips, toss out the 7-and-7s and sugary-sweet drinks.

Collectively, the catering teams of Rococo, Along Came Mary! and Somerset have fed nearly every big name in Hollywood through major movie premieres, benefits and private parties. They say that the low-alcohol party fits in perfectly with our life styles.

“This is a fast-moving town filled with people who are health and weight conscious,” says Mary Micucci of Along Came Mary!

Another reason parties have changed in Los Angeles: We’re a sophisticated, multinational lot, the caterers contend, and the foods we favor reflect that. The new celebrations are a good stage for indulging our whims and our varied tastes broadened by travel, TV and our rich ethnic heritage.

Fruit juices are valued, both for their nutritional content and their lack of alcohol. Beyond juice, “Everything is white,” says Phil Restaino of Somerset. White wine, champagne and sparkling waters are on the menu. But so is not-so-white beer--if it’s Asian or Mexican, served with a wedge of lime, or has reduced calories, Rococo’s Robert Ehrman reports.

As for the more traditional fare, wassail spiked with sherry and brandy is uncharacteristically high in alcohol content for a society that drives several miles just to reach a neighborhood party. Beyond calorie consciousness, strict drunk-driving laws and common sense have combined to make us more cautious about alcohol consumption, at least at parties.

The party plan is important and should include hors d’oeuvres that can be made in advance “so that you can be a guest at your own party,” Micucci says. Plan on four to six hors d’oeuvre bites per person. Also plan to serve at least one hot drink that will perfume the air with cloves and cinnamon. Schedule waters and fruit juices for your friends who must drive home. Make a list so that you don’t forget any of this. And invite only the proper amount of people.

The party should be “not too crowded, not too empty,” Micucci said. “When you can’t turn around, it’s too crowded. When you have to put your glasses on to see the other guests,” you need more guests. Numbers are dictated by the size of the space.

Guest numbers also dictate whether you should serve solo or try to find help. More than 25 would be easier if handled with assistance, whether it is hired or that of a kind and generous friend.

Make strong efforts to decorate lavishly, but that does not mean refinancing your home to free up cash.

Invest in flowers and greenery. Wholesale prices are available at the flower market in downtown Los Angeles. Buy a flat or two of poinsettias, and blanket the living room with color. Flood the house with candles.

And do not, even if it seems a bit too much at the time, rule out the opportunity for a spur-of-the moment party. That’s why the gods of cooking invented mixed nuts. And carryout.

THAI SCALLOP KEBABS

(Along Came Mary!) 4 tablespoons vegetable oil3 cloves garlic, minced1 large stem fresh lemon grass, minced3 quarter-sized pieces fresh ginger root, peeled and minced1 jalapeno, seeded and mincedWater48 sea scallops1 large bunch cilantro4 scallions (some green included)5 tablespoons lime juiceSalt1 green apple1 red bell pepper1 yellow bell pepper3 bunches scallions, green part only Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet. Add garlic, lemon grass, ginger and jalapeno, and saute, stirring frequently, until garlic is soft. Add 3 tablespoons water, bring to a simmer, add scallops and cook until scallops are opaque. Add more water if mixture becomes dry. Pour contents of pan into bowl and cool. In blender or food processor, mince cilantro and scallions. Add 4 tablespoons lime juice, remaining 3 tablespoons oil and salt to taste. Spoon over scallops.

Core apple, slice into 24 pieces and toss with remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice. Core bell peppers and cut into 24 square pieces each. Add apple and bell pepper to scallops, cover, refrigerate and marinate for 3 hours.

Thread a 6-inch skewer with a piece of red pepper, a scallop, an apple slice, a yellow pepper slice and another scallop. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Serve on bed of scallion greens. Makes 24 kebabs.

WHITE & WILD RICE CAKES (Along Came Mary!) 1 red bell pepper3 scallions1 small carrot1 ( 1/2-ounce) package fresh oregano2 cups slightly overcooked white long-grain rice1 cup cooked wild rice (one 4-ounce package uncooked)1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon white pepper4 egg yolks1 egg cup all-purpose flourClarified butterApple slices tossed with lemon juiceDilled Horseradish Sour CreamDill sprigs Finely chop bell pepper, scallions, carrot and oregano leaves, toss with cooled rice and season with salt and pepper. Whisk egg yolks and egg together and then combine with flour. Add to rice. Use hands to shape about 1 heaping tablespoon of rice mixture into flat, round cake. Repeat with remaining rice mixture and saute in butter until cakes just begin to turn color, turning once. Drain and serve hot topped with 2 apple slices, a mound of Dilled Horseradish Sour Cream and a tiny sprig of dill. Makes about 40.

Dilled Horseradish Sour Cream 1 cup sour cream1 teaspoon lemon juice2 tablespoons prepared horseradishDash hot red pepper sauce teaspoon saltDash white pepper cup fresh dill, chopped Combine sour cream, lemon juice, horseradish, pepper sauce, salt, pepper and dill. Chill and use to top White & Wild Rice Cakes. Makes about 1 cup.

STRUDEL OF WILD MUSHROOMS (Somerset) 1 pound wild mushrooms (shiitake, oyster and porcini), sliced1 pounds button mushrooms, sliced5 ounces butter5 teaspoons olive oil cup minced shallots1 1/2 tablespoons flour1 1/2 cups whipping creamSalt and white pepper18 sheets filo doughMelted butterWild mushrooms and herbsScallions, green part only Saute mushrooms in butter and olive oil until mushrooms just begin to brown. Add shallots and saute until all liquid has evaporated. Sprinkle with flour and stir to thoroughly combine. Stir in cream and cook until cream is quite thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool.

Cover filo with damp paper towels. Working quickly so that filo does not dry out, remove 6 sheets of filo from under towels and brush filo with butter. Place of mushroom mixture down long end of dough. Fold short ends toward center, then roll dough into neat cylinder. Brush with butter. Repeat with remaining ingredients to make 2 more cylinders. Bake at 400 degrees until golden, about 15 minutes. Cool slightly before cutting. Garnish with wild mushrooms and herbs and tie with scallions. Serves about 60, 20 servings per strudel.

CURRIED CASHEW NUTS (Rococo) 1 clove garlic, crushed but still whole3 tablespoons peanut oil1 tablespoon soy sauce1 tablespoon curry powder teaspoon white pepperSalt to taste2 cups raw unsalted cashews Saute garlic in oil until garlic is soft. Discard garlic. Remove from heat, add soy sauce, curry powder, pepper and salt to taste to oil. Place over moderate heat, add nuts and stir until nuts are thoroughly coated. Remove nuts from oil and spread on cookie sheet lined with brown paper. Bake at 250 degrees until nuts are lightly browned and crisp, about 10 minutes. Makes 2 cups.

CRAB,FENNEL AND PUMPKIN RANGOONS (Along Came Mary!) 1 carrot1 stalk celery1 red bell pepper, cored1 green bell pepper, cored1 cup chopped fennel 1/2 red onion2 tablespoons minced ginger root3 tablespoons lemon juice1 teaspoon prepared horseradishDash salt 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3/4 pound crab meat, drained 1/2 cup canned pumpkin2 teaspoons sesame oil2 teaspoons Dijon mustard1 egg, lightly beaten3 (12-ounce) packages won ton skinsOil for deep fryingChivesPersimmon Apricot Ginger Sauce In food processor or blender, combine carrot, celery, bell peppers, fennel, onion, ginger, lemon juice, horseradish, salt and red pepper sauce until almost pureed. Saute in oil about 6 minutes. Cool and add to crab and pumpkin. Stir in sesame oil and Dijon mustard. Place about 1 generous teaspoon of filling in center of won ton skin. Brush edges of won ton skin with egg and pinch to seal shut into small purse shape. Deep-fry in oil until golden, about 2 minutes. Tie each with a chive. Serve with Persimmon Apricot Ginger Sauce. Makes about 150 rangoons.

Persimmon Apricot Ginger Sauce 1 teaspoon minced ginger root4 Fuyu persimmons, peeled and cored1 to 2 teaspoons chili oil (or to taste)1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/2 teaspoon sesame oilSalt In food processor or blender, puree ginger root and persimmons with chili oil, mustard, sesame oil and a dash of salt. Serve with Carb, Fennel and Pumpkin Rangoons. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

CHINESE DUCK APPETIZER (Rococo) 1 ( 3/4-pound) boneless duck breast6 (8-inch) Chinese moo shu pancakes cup hoisin sauce Prick skin of duck breast and roast at 350 degrees until meat is cooked, about 30 minutes. Remove meat from skin. If skin is still releasing fat, return to oven and bake until skin is dry and crisp. Shred duck and cut skin in thin strips.

Paint 1 moo shu pancake with 2 teaspoons hoisin sauce. Place about cup duck meat and 1/6 of skin pieces down center of pancake. Roll and fold pancake so that it is 2 1/2 inches wide. Cut into sixths or serve whole. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Heat in 300-degree oven until heated through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Makes 36 appetizers, if cut into sixths.

WASSAIL (Somerset) 2 whole cloves2 whole allspice berries1 stick cinnamon 1/2 cup water1 cup sugar teaspoon grated nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/8 teaspoon ground mace3 eggs, separated1 bottle cream sherry 1/2 cup brandyTiny, baked crab apples (optional) Tie cloves, allspice and cinnamon in cheesecloth and place in pan with water, sugar, nutmeg, ginger and mace. Bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes. Beat egg whites until stiff. Beat yolks until light in color. Fold whites into yolks. Strain hot syrup over eggs and incorporate. Combine wines and bring just to a simmer. Blend with sweetened eggs, pour into wassail bowl and garnish with tiny, baked crab apples, if desired. Serve hot in punch bowl. Serves about 10.

MULLED CIDER (Rococo) 1 quart cider1 stick cinnamon 1/2 cup sugar8 whole clovesJuice of 1 lemon4 lemon slices Combine cider, cinnamon, sugar, cloves and lemon juice and slices. Heat until sugar is dissolved and cider is hot. Serve hot in mugs. Serves about 6 to 8.

CRANBERRY-RASPBERRY FIZZ (Along Came Mary!) 6 ounces cranberry-raspberry juice2 ounces frozen or fresh strawberry puree or 6 ounces champagne6 ounces soda or a drop of creme de cassis For non-alcoholic fizz: Combine cranberry-raspberry juice, strawberry puree and soda. Serve in champagne flutes. Serves 3 to 4.

For alcoholic fizz: Combine cranberry-raspberry juice, champagne and creme de cassis. Serve in champagne flutes. Serves

3 to 4.

Photographed by E. K. Waller / Food stylist Wendy Blasdel / Punch bowl and champagne flutes courtesy of Geary’s / Plates, containers and candle holders courtesy of By Design, Beverly Center / Garland decoration courtesy of the Christmas Guild, Beverly Center