EXTRAVAGANT DINING

It’s the time of year for champagne and candles, for nights on the town. If you’re in the mood for something lavish, here are a few restaurants that will provide a night to remember. ANTOINE (Hotel Meridien, 4500 MacArthur Blvd., Newport Beach, (714) 476-2001). Perennially ranked as one of Orange County’s top three restaurants, Antoine has recently changed its menu. An entree of lobster and sole comes in a sweet, salmon-colored sauce; the tenderloin of veal in a light celery juice. Another appealing main dish is a thin filet of turbot on a bed of cepe mushrooms. A flan of foie gras has a texture of unearthly richness and lightness. The dessert selection is a chocolate lover’s delight. Dinner Mon.-Sat. All major credit cards. Full bar. Complimentary valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $60-$80.

LA SERRE (12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500). The restaurant’s name refers to the abundance of greenery that makes the room so pretty; in the evening, the dining area is candle-lit and soothingly romantic. The French food is quite classic. Appetizers include sauteed duck foie gras served on cooked artichoke bottoms in a luxurious, wine-spiked brown sauce. Go on to such entrees as rack of lamb with a latticed basket made of potatoes. Lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Mon.-Sat. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $70-$120. LA TOQUE (8171 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 656-7515). The restaurant has the quiet look of a small country French inn, but the food is among the most best and most creative in town. Chef Ken Frank’s menu is constantly surprising; French-oriented, it takes its inspiration from both California and Asia. For a really extravagant evening, call ahead and ask the chef to prepare a special dinner just for you. Dinner Mon.-Sat. Full bar. All major credit cards. Valet parking. Full bar. Dinner for two, food only, $100-$120.

L’ERMITAGE (730 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 652-5840). French dining pioneer Jean Bertranou opened this one in 1975, and in the process, brought an era of great food to Los Angeles. Under the stewardship of chef Michel Blanchet, the restaurant continues the tradition. And, thanks to new owner Dora Fourcade, there’s a sprightly new decor. Some excellent dishes: a textbook feuillete with salmon in a very correct beurre blanc, a beautifully roasted squab, aiguillettes of duck breast in red wine sauce, and the inimitable smoked salmon. Dinner Mon.-Sat. All major credit cards. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $100-$140.

L’ESCOFFIER (in the Beverly Hilton, 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (213) 274-7777). When you walk into this nearly 30-year-old establishment, you’ll swear you’ve strolled right into a ‘40s movie. You can even dance while you dine. One might start with a lovely oyster timbale, a sort of oyster quenelle paired with poached oysters and served in a light watercress sauce. The very correct and rather traditional French entrees all arrive with extravagant vegetable layouts. Desserts are wheeled up on an enormous cart. Dinner nightly except Sunday. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards. Dinner for two, food only, $70-$90.

REX IL RISTORANTE (617 S. Olive St., 627-2300). One of L. A.’s most opulent restaurants, Rex is a place where you’ll be guaranteed first-class treatment. With its Lalique doors and Deco decor, this is surely among the city’s most gorgeous rooms, with mauve colors, thick carpets, overripe and glowingly lit. And the extraordinary Italian food is first-rate. A good way to become familiar with Rex would be to order the six-course prix-fixe dinner, including antipasto with smoked salmon and baby artichokes as an appetizer and such entrees as medallion of veal with sweetbreads. After these well-organized and succulent dishes, you can sample the fine espresso and state-of-the-art desserts. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Full bar. All major credit cards. Valet parking. Prix-fixe dinner, per person, $65.