True Grits: A Culinary Comeback in Some Spicy Variations

A phone call early from a magazine editor gave me pause.

“Tell me, is grits going anywhere?” she asked in the tone that editors use when they suspect a trend. “I know that Southerners have been eating grits for years as part of their breakfast routine but that’s not what I’m talking about. Do you think grits could ever go nationwide? And why?”

My affirmative answer surprised her. Not simply because I am a grits lover, but more realistically because this corn byproduct is a high-fiber food, cooks quickly and dovetails with harried homemakers’ needs. Last but not least, grits is well endowed with protein. And when combined with eggs, vegetables, cheese, chicken or seafood, it will supply vitamins and minerals for a balanced daily diet.

I came to grits early. Actually it came to me across a marble drugstore counter on Duke of Gloucester Street in Williamsburg, Va., where I went to college.

First Taste of Grits

Grits was served with my breakfast the first day I arrived to begin my freshman term, and it was love at first bite.

But not every one shared my enthusiasm. A young sophomore watched my consumption for three days in a row before commenting on the penchant.

“You really like that stuff?” He inquired in a low voice. “Or are you just bein’ Yankee polite?”

“No, I love it. Don’t you?”

“I hate grits. But you can’t admit things like that when you’re a 10th-generation, Southern-born Alabamian. It’s one notch above spittin’ on the Confederate flag or declarin’ ‘War and Peace’ is a better book than ‘Gone With the Wind.’ ” He winked to make the point implicit.

“Don’t you like the taste?” I asked, licking my fork.

“Taste has nothing to do with it.” He replied. “It’s the color. I can’t stand white food.”

Grits is certainly white, but don’t hold that against it.

For the record, I might mention that grits is actually a residual of cornmeal; in essence the dried, ground kernels left over after milling from which the bran and sometimes the germ is removed. Mass-produced steel-ground grits (the kind available on supermarket shelves) is somewhat less nutritive than organic stone-ground grits made the old-fashioned way between millstones; but there are vast differences in cooking times, smoothness and availability.

At this time, stone-ground grits may only be purchased at natural health food stores, gourmet grocers or by mail order.

BLEU GRITS

4 cups water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup white hominy grits

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 ounces creamy bleu cheese, cut into cubes

1 tablespoon butter

Chopped parsley

Heat water with salt in medium heavy saucepan to boiling. Reduce heat. Stir in grits and cook, stirring constantly, until creamy in texture, about 10 minutes.

Stir cream into grits and raise heat slightly. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Add cheese and butter. Cook 2 minutes longer. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Cambazola, Bleu Castello or other creamy bleu cheese may be used.

GRITS AND HAM CUSTARD TART

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 shallot, minced

1 cup cooked diced ham

2 teaspoons Madeira

1 cup hot milk

1 cup hot chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup hominy grits

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons shredded Gruyere cheese

Freshly ground pepper

Melt butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add shallot and cook 2 minutes. Add ham and cook 2 minutes longer. Stir in Madeira and continue to cook until almost all liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes.

Add milk, chicken broth and nutmeg to ham mixture. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat. Stir in grits and cook, stirring constantly, over low heat until creamy in texture, about 10 minutes.

Remove from heat and beat in eggs, cream and 1/3 cup Gruyere cheese. Pour mixture into buttered 10-inch glass or ceramic quiche dish. Sprinkle with remaining Gruyere cheese and season to taste with pepper. Bake at 400 degrees until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings.