BETWEEN THE SLICES

The sandwich, which is basically anything between two slices of bread, was named after the fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-1792). The earl was supposedly a heavy gambler who, not wanting to leave the tables to eat his meals, had his servant put his meat between two slices of bread. No gambling here: these recently reviewed restaurants all make great sandwiches.

ALLEN’S SANDWICH SHOP (306 East 9th St., Los Angeles (213) 972-9908). Allen’s has genuine old-time diner-deli atmosphere. The paper drink cones, the heavy coffee mugs, the folksy waitresses in sensible clothes and the down-home food are the real thing. Owner Allen Saltzberg makes almost every sandwich--and they are all good. There’s the super tuna melt on sourdough toast with avocado, the meat-packed grilled Reuben, the hot beef brisket with potatoes and gravy, the French dip brisket, and Allen’s special, which is stuffed with pastrami, Swiss cheese, coleslaw and Russian dressing. Saltzberg is so obliging that if a whole sandwich is too much he’ll make you a half. That way you will have room for the cheesecake, a dense mixture on a nut-lined graham-cracker crust. Very nice. Breakfast and lunch, Mon.-Fri. Cash only. No liquor. Street or lot parking nearby. Lunch for two, food only: $6-$15.

ANGELI (7274 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood (213) 936-9086). Angeli attacks you with both its warmth and its sophistication the minute you walk in the door. The place is so fragrant with the scents of olive oil, garlic, basil and rosemary that you are thinking Italian before you look around and realize how modern and cool the place looks. The visual effect of the glass-brick wall and solid wooden beam is beautifully balanced by the friendliness of the place. This is a true cafe, the kind of place where you will want to drop in for an afternoon snack, eat alone at the counter in the front, or linger with some friends over a bottle of wine. Angeli, besides its wonderful pizzas, pastas and salads, serves a whole range of wonderful panini, Italian sandwiches, stuffed into crusty home-made rolls. Try the one with ricotta. Lunch, Mon.-Sat.; dinner daily. All major credit cards accepted. Beer and wine only. Street parking. Lunch for two, food only: $15-$30.

EL CAPRICHO (317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles (213) 617-2269). This La Salsa-owned stand that boasts the “World’s Greatest Tortas” is located in downtown’s recently renovated Grand Central Market. Cooks in the spiffy open kitchen build fat little torpedo-shaped sandwiches out of various meats, cheeses, avocado, tomato, onion and peppers. Try the El Pollo Gourmet (marinated grilled chicken and cheese) or the Super Raton, made of three kinds of cheese. El Bistec Gourmet (steak, cheese, chiles) is tasty but tough. Maybe you’ll even be able to bring yourself to try the Hawaiian torta (ham, cheese and pineapple)! Lunch and dinner daily. Cash only. No liquor. Parking lots nearby. Lunch for two, food only: $5-$10.

ELENA’S GREEK-ARMENIAN RESTAURANT (1000 S. Glendale Ave., Glendale (818) 241-5730). This tiny Greek-Armenian restaurant is located at the corner of Glendale Avenue and Arcadia Street. The decor is casual--mismatched chairs surrounding tables covered with red-and-white-checked oilcloth. Mementos collected by the owners and vases of plastic flowers adorn the walls, beamed ceiling and tables. The shish kebab is tender and succulent, with just enough hint of marinade. The lulu kebab, well-seasoned homemade sausage on a skewer, and small lamb chop are equally good. But the falafel sandwich gets top billing. It’s filled with crunchy garbanzo bean patties fried, then sauced with a creamy, delicate hummus. These, along with sliced tomatoes and lettuce, are tucked inside a huge pita bread. Lunch and dinner, Tue.-Sun. Cash only. No liquor. Street parking. Lunch for two, food only: $5-$15.

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL (1001 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles (213) 628-3781). Philippe’s is a bastion of old-fashioned, solid values, a place that has been giving you a decent return for your money since 1912. People stand in line before the long counter, watching as heaping sandwiches (beef, pork, lamb) are constructed. Eating here is an exercise in democracy; everybody waits his turn and sits together at long, no-nonsense tables. Not only is Philippe’s famous for French-dip sandwiches, but they also make a mean doughnut. Don’t forget to order a cup of coffee: you can still get it for a dime. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Cash only. Beer and wine. Parking in rear and lot across street. Lunch for two, food only $5-$10.