Summing Up Chopstix

“We’re the first restaurant in Los Angeles to use these,” said the waiter, flipping out his order pad. It was an electronic gadget, instantly transmitting our order to the kitchen as he punched up the buttons. The waiter peered quizzically at the thing, muttering to himself. “Szechuan firecrackers, now what number were they?” he puzzled. He hit a button, smiled happily. “That one!” he said.

There is certainly an upbeat air about Chopstix, West Hollywood’s hip new “dimsum cafe” at 7229 Melrose Ave., (213) 935-2944. The place is light, with a long counter and high tables surrounded by long-legged stools. The staff is almost maniacally pleasant. The yellow, pink and turquoise menus are filled with snappy titles and even snappier prose. “We slay no dragon before its time,” we are told about the “Dragon Tail Dumplings” (which are listed under the heading “Win Sum & Dim Sum”).

Some of the dishes (they were created by Hugh Carpenter) are a bit too creative for my taste (avoid the “Really Risque Rice”); some are sensational (try the marinated chicken and cucumber). None, however, costs more than $3.95, and three of us managed to eat a small mountain of food, drink a few beers, eat a lot of fabulous Robin Rose ice cream and get out the door for $40. And, I might add, get out the door quickly--those electronic gadgets really seem to work.