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Bake-Off Uncovers What’s Cooking Across America : Pillsbury Contest Separates Food Fads From the Latest Culinary Trends

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Times Food Editor

It has changed drastically throughout the years, but the 37-year-old Pillsbury Bake-Off continues to be a bellwether for what’s happening in the kitchens of America. The grandparent of all cooking contests may not provide recipes that will fill restaurant tables, but those that make it to the finals are good indications of what’s going on in the home. Fads may come and go, but when a fad makes it to the Bake-Off, you know it’s no longer a fad; it’s a trend.

This year’s contest, the 33rd, was no exception to its predecessors. (In recent years, Pillsbury has held the Bake-Off in alternate years only.) The 100 finalists from 31 states came prepared to compete with one another for $126,000 in prizes.

Each contestant cooked his or her recipe several times, once for the panel of judges to sample, once for display and photos and the rest for eager onlookers to sample. Contestants entered in one of six categories, ranging from flour, cake mix and microwave cake mix and refrigerated crescent dinner rolls and biscuits to canned vegetables, frozen vegetables and refrigerated pie crusts.

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A $10,000 prize and three $2,000 prizes were awarded in each of the categories and in addition to the $10,000 category first prize, one lucky winner took home an additional $30,000 cash as grand prize winner, plus a $10,000 Sears “Redo Your Kitchen” shopping spree.

Sears, which has replaced General Electric as co-sponsor of the Bake-Off this year for the first time, also provided other extra prizes for the winners. The remaining five $10,000 winners each took home a Sears’ Best gas or electric range and all $2,000 winners received Kenmore 12-speed food processors. In addition, all finalists received $100 cash and an all-expense-paid trip to San Diego to compete in the finals.

The canned and frozen vegetable categories were new to the contest this year and added an interesting fillip to many of the recipes. They appeared in casseroles, sandwiches, tortes and quiches. And don’t believe anyone who tells you that quiches are out. The Bake-Off was loaded with them under various names: pies, tortes and tarts as well as quiches.

Perhaps the most noticeable trend this year was the same as last year’s; American cooks have discovered the wonders of presenting foods attractively. No thrown-together casseroles, here. No uneven pie crusts or hollow-topped cakes, either. Breads were beautiful--well-shaped, evenly browned and tasty. Tarts were works of art. And cakes, which often in the past have suffered from overkill in frosting and decoration, were beautifully understated and obviously products of artistic bakers. American cooks have been observant restaurant diners, it would seem, as many of the presentations would have made professional chefs proud.

In the “what’s new” category, it appears that nutrition is high on the list of concerns of today’s cooks. Unfortunately they don’t always know how to apply this concern to food preparation for, as Marlene Johnson of Pillsbury’s consumer communications department told the food press attending: “Add certain ingredients--like whole-wheat flour, wheat germ, granola or shredded vegetables--to a recipe and it automatically becomes ‘nutritious,’ regardless of fat content, calorie count or sodium level.”

Johnson also said that nationwide the trifle is a current dessert craze. Ethnic cuisines and specialty ingredients such as white chocolate, artichoke hearts and Brie cheese now appear to have entered the mainstream of cooking, she said.

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As always Bake-Off recipes reflected the popularity of apples and chocolate, but fruit juices, specialty nuts such as macadamias, and other specialty foods such as chorizo, Italian sausage and crab meat ranked high in the list of ingredient choices. The recipes also supported the trend to crossing cultural food lines as in one recipe for colorful chicken fried rice which combined Oriental seasonings with a package of frozen mixed vegetables, canned pineapple chunks and far more chicken meat than would be found in a traditional Chinese stir-fry dish.

But the biggest trend of all was obviously the return to good old, down-home American cooking. Apple pie--old-fashioned or updated--is still a mainstay of home cooking. Casseroles, upscale rather than mere solutions for leftovers, were evident. And above all, there is a broader awareness and use of herbs and spices. Real American cooking has always been good and now it seems to be enjoying a genuine resurgence.

Cake Mix Category

$40,000 Grand Prize Winner

CHOCOLATE PRALINE LAYER CAKE

(Julie Konecne,

Bemidji, Minn.)

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/4 cup whipping cream

1 cup brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup coarsely chopped pecans

1 (18.25-ounce) package pudding-included devil’s food cake mix

1 1/4 cups water

1/3 cup oil

3 eggs

Topping

Pecan halves, optional

Chocolate curls, optional

Combine butter, whipping cream and brown sugar in small heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat just until butter is melted, stirring occasionally. Pour into 2 (8- or 9-inch round cake pans and sprinkle evenly with chopped pecans.

Combine cake mix, water, oil and eggs in large bowl. Beat at low speed until moistened. Beat 2 minutes at highest speed. Carefully spoon batter over pecan mixture. Bake at 325 degrees 35 to 45 minutes or until cake springs back when touched lightly in center. Cool 5 minutes. Remove from pans. Cool completely.

To assemble cake, place 1 layer on serving plate, praline side up. Spread with 1/2 Topping. Top with second layer, praline side up. Spread top with remaining Topping. Garnish with pecan halves and chocolate curls. Store in refrigerator. Makes 12 servings.

Topping

1 3/4 cups whipping cream

1/4 cup powdered sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whipping cream in small bowl until soft peaks form. Blend in powdered sugar and vanilla. Beat until stiff peaks form.

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Flour Category

$10,000 Winner

LEMON KISS COOKIES

(Sandi Lamberton,

Solvang, Calif.)

1 1/2 cups butter or margarine, softened

3/4 cup sugar

1 tablespoon lemon extract

2 3/4 cups all-purpose or unbleached flour

1 1/2 cups finely chopped almonds

1 (14-ounce) package milk chocolate candy kisses

Powdered sugar

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate pieces

1 tablespoon shortening

Cream butter, sugar and lemon extract in large bowl until light and fluffy. Add flour and almonds. Beat at low speed until well blended. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour for easier handling.

Shape scant tablespoon dough around each candy kiss, covering completely. Roll in hands to form ball. Place on ungreased baking sheets.

Bake at 375 degrees 8 to 12 minutes or until set and bottom edges are light golden brown. Cool 1 minute. Remove from baking sheets. Cool completely.

Lightly sprinkle cooled cookies with powdered sugar. Melt chocolate pieces and shortening in small saucepan over low heat, stirring until smooth. Drizzle over each cookie. Makes about 6 dozen.

Canned Vegetable Category

$10,000 Winner

PIZZA QUICHE

(Marilyn Erickson,

San Jose, Calif.)

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated pie crusts

3 cups (12 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Cheddar cheese

1/2 cup (2 ounces) sliced pepperoni, optional

1 (4.5-ounce) jar sliced mushrooms, drained

3/4 cup milk

2 eggs

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1 small clove garlic, minced

1 (16-ounce) jar spaghetti sauce

Prepare pie crust according to package directions for filled 1-crust pie, lining 9-inch pie pan or 9-inch quiche pan. (Refrigerate remaining crust for later use.)

Layer mozzarella and Cheddar cheeses in pie-crust-lined pan. Top with pepperoni and mushrooms. Combine milk, eggs, Italian seasoning and garlic in medium bowl. Beat well. Pour egg mixture over mushrooms.

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Bake at 400 degrees 40 to 45 minutes or until knife inserted near center comes out clean. Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

Simmer spaghetti sauce in small saucepan 2 to 3 minutes or until thoroughly heated. To serve, cut quiche into wedges. Spoon spaghetti sauce over each wedge. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: 1/4 pound Italian sausage, cooked and drained, may be substituted for pepperoni.

Refrigerated Biscuit and Crescent Category

$10,000 Winner

ORANGE DATE CRESCENT CLAWS

(Barbara Rhea,

Beavercreek, Ohio)

1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1/2 cup chopped pitted dates

1 (8-ounce) can refrigerated crescent dinner rolls

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

Combine nuts, sugar and orange peel in small bowl. Blend well. Reserve 1/4 cup mixture for topping. Stir dates into remaining mixture. Set aside.

Separate crescent roll dough into 4 rectangles. Firmly press perforations to seal. Cut each rectangle in half crosswise. Press or roll out each to form 8 (4-inch) squares. Brush each with some melted butter. Spoon about 2 tablespoons date mixture across center 1/3 of each square to within 1/4 inch of ends. Fold sides of dough over filling. Pinch center seam and ends to seal. Place seam side down on ungreased baking sheet.

Using scissors or sharp knife, make 3 (1/2-inch) cuts in 1 folded edge. To form claws, separate cut sections of each roll by gently curving into crescent shape. Brush top of each claw with remaining melted butter, sprinkle with reserved sugar-nut mixture. Bake at 375 degrees 8 to 12 minutes or until golden brown. Makes 8 rolls.

Frozen Vegetable Category

$10,000 Winner

PARTY SPINACH CUPS

(Beverly Ann Crummey,

Brooksville, Fla.)

1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil

2/3 cup chopped onion

1 small clove garlic, minced

1 (9-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach in pouch, thawed and well drained

1 (4-ounce) can mushroom pieces and stems, drained and chopped

1/2 cup Italian-style bread crumbs

1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 (10-ounce) can refrigerated flaky biscuits

Sour cream, optional

Lightly grease 20 miniature muffin cups. Heat olive oil in large skillet. Saute onion and garlic until tender. Add spinach, mushrooms, bread crumbs, cheese, yogurt, salt and pepper. Blend well.

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Separate dough into 10 biscuits, then separate each into 2 layers. Place each layer in greased muffin cup and press firmly in bottom and up sides. Spoon generous tablespoon spinach mixture into each cup.

Bake at 375 degrees 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown. Garnish each with sour cream. Serve warm. Makes 20 appetizers.

Refrigerated Pie Crust Category

$10,000 Winner

RASPBERRY-CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE PIE

(Carol Hird,

Madison, Wis.)

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated pie crusts

Filling

Topping

Chocolate curls

Whole raspberries

Raspberry Sauce

Prepare pie crust according to package directions for unfilled 1-crust pie, lining 1 (9-inch) pie pan. (Refrigerate remaining crust for later use.) Bake at 450 degrees 9 to 11 minutes or until light golden brown. Cool completely.

Pour Filling into prepared crust and refrigerate about 1 hour or until firm. Spread Topping over cooled filling. Garnish with chocolate curls and whole raspberries. Refrigerate until serving time. Remove from refrigerator 1 hour before serving. Serve with Raspberry Sauce. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Filling

1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk

2/3 cup whipping cream

5 (1-ounce) squares semisweet chocolate, melted

4 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, melted

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons raspberry liqueur

2 tablespoons amaretto

Combine condensed milk and whipping cream in medium heavy saucepan. Blend well. Bring mixture to boil over medium heat. Remove from heat. Cool 5 minutes. Combine milk mixture and melted chocolates in food processor bowl with metal blade. Process 5 to 10 seconds. Add egg yolks and process 5 seconds. Add raspberry liqueur and amaretto. Process 5 seconds.

Pour blended mixture into large bowl. Set over ice. Stir 5 to 7 minutes or until mixture is cool. Beat mixture on highest speed of mixer 2 to 3 minutes or until soft peaks form.

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Topping

1 1/3 cups whipping cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat whipping cream in small bowl until soft peaks form. Add powdered sugar and vanilla. Beat until stiff peaks form.

Raspberry Sauce

4 cups frozen raspberries without syrup, thawed

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Press raspberries through strainer to make 1 cup puree. Discard seeds. Combine sugar and cream of tartar in small saucepan. Blend well. Stir in puree. Mix well. Bring mixture to boil over medium heat. Boil 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Cover and refrigerate.

$2,000 Winner

QUESADILLA QUICHE

(Laurie Keane,

Escondido, Calif.)

1 (15-ounce) package refrigerated pie crusts

1 cup coarsely chopped onions

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 cup coarsely chopped tomato, drained

1 (4-ounce) can sliced black olives, drained

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder or garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 (4-ounce) can chopped green chiles, drained

2 eggs, beaten

2 to 3 drops hot pepper sauce

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded Jack cheese

1 cup shredded (4 ounces) shredded Cheddar cheese

Sour cream, optional

Salsa or picante sauce, optional

Prepare pie crust according to package directions for 2-crust pie using 10-inch tart pan with removable bottom or 9-inch pie pan. Place 1 prepared crust in pan, pressing in bottom and up sides of pan. Trim edges if necessary. Reserve other crust for top.

Saute onion in butter in medium skillet until tender. Reserve 1 tablespoon each tomato and olives. Stir remaining tomato, olives, garlic powder, cumin, pepper and chiles into cooked onion.

Beat eggs in small bowl with hot pepper sauce. Reserve 2 teaspoons mixture. Stir in 1/2 cup Jack cheese and 1/2 cup Cheddar cheese. Sprinkle remaining cheeses over bottom of pie shell. Spread onion mixture evenly over cheeses. Carefully pour egg mixture over onion mixture. Spread to cover. Top with second crust. Seal edges. Slit crust in decorative design in several places. Brush with reserved egg mixture.

Bake at 375 degrees on lowest oven rack 45 to 55 minutes or until golden brown. Let stand 5 minutes. Remove sides of pan. Serve warm with sour cream, salsa and reserved chopped tomatoes and sliced olives. Makes 6 servings.

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