IN THE KITCHEN : Say It With Fruit

FLOWERS ARE FINE, but you can’t eat them. So next time you’re about to send a big bouquet, why not think fruitfully? These state-of-the-art fruit (or vegetable) baskets are no less lovely; they are, however, a lot more tasteful.

Stanford gift baskets are put together by Northern Produce Co., one of the most respected wholesale fruit and vegetable purveyors in the city. Their clients include such restaurants as Spago, Chasen’s and the Bistro. They begin with woven willow baskets, then fill the baskets with ripe seasonal fruits (both local and tropical). The baskets are brimming with whatever is wonderful in the morning’s market. That may include exotica such as Cavaillon melons, Champagne grapes or golden raspberries--or it may be nothing more than perfect pears, peaches and berries. It all depends on the season.

Baby carrots, radicchio , tiny eggplants, golden beets and the like spill over the edges of the vegetable baskets. These often include some of the world’s more exotic mushrooms (Northern Produce Co. began life many years ago as a specialty mushroom company). But the combination baskets--which include the best fruits, vegetables and herbs of the day--are the most exciting of all.

Stanford gift baskets come in four sizes and prices ranging from $40 to $150. Delivery charges are $10 within a 25 - mile radius of downtown Los Angeles, $15 within a 50 - mile radius. There is a 20% surcharge for rush orders. Stanford Gift Baskets, 1000 S. Wall St., Los Angeles (213) 626-4438.