A Ramble Through the San Rafael Wilderness

San Rafael Wilderness, part of Los Padres National Forest, was the first Wilderness Area in California set aside under the federal Wilderness Act of 1964.

“San Rafael is rocky, rugged, wooded and lonely,” President Lyndon B. Johnson remarked when he signed the San Rafael Wilderness bill on March 21, 1968. “I believe it will enrich the spirit of America.”

A fine way to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the San Rafael Wilderness and the arrival of spring, is to take a hike on the Manzana Creek Trail. The trail begins at NIRA, the major entry point for the San Rafael Wilderness. NIRA, an auto camp and popular day-use area, is an acronym for the National Industrial Recovery Act, a federal program launched during the Depression.

Manzana Creek Trail passes tall thin alders and now, in spring, wildflowers. The poppies have about faded away, but the lupine is busting out all over.

Four creek side camps beckon the picnicker. In addition to a few stocked trout that survive the legions of fishermen, you’ll find frogs, crayfish and turtles in Manzana Creek. Rewarding the hiker after many creek crossings is Manzana Narrows, a narrow canyon where there are some fine pools for fishing and cooling off.

For more information about roads, recreation and trails in the San Rafael Wilderness, call the Santa Lucia Ranger District of Los Padres National Forest, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays, at (805) 925-9538. For more general information about the national forest, call headquarters: (805) 683-6711.

Directions to trailhead: From U.S. 101 in Santa Barbara, exit on California 154 and follow the latter highway over San Marcos Pass. Beyond Lake Cachuma, turn right on Armour Ranch Road and proceed 2 1/2 miles to Happy Canyon Road. Make another right and continue 17 miles (Happy Canyon Road becomes Sunset Valley Road after passing an intersection at Figueroa Mountain Road) to NIRA Camp. Parking space for hikers is provided at the south end of the campground.

The hike: Leaving NIRA Camp, the trail immediately crosses Manzana Creek and begins a gentle ascent along the north bank of the creek. The route switchbacks up a low ridge cloaked with digger pine and soon arrives at Lost Valley Camp, a small site tucked among oak and pine at the mouth of Lost Valley Canyon. This canyon reaches from Manzana Creek up to Hurricane Deck, heart of the San Rafael Wilderness. Lost Valley Trail departs from camp and climbs up to the magnificent deck.

Manzana Creek Trail meanders along the north bank of the creek for the next 2 miles. Look to your right across the creek and you’ll spot Fish Creek Camp on the far side of the Manzana flood plain, where Fish Creek meets Manzana Creek. Fishermen like this camp because the creeks here usually support a large trout population.

Past Fish Creek, Manzana Creek Trail at first stays on the north wall of the canyon, passing through chaparral and dipping in and out of washes. Manzana Canyon narrows and the trail heads down toward the creek, which is lined by tall thin alders. The trail crosses the Manzana, and half of a mile later, crosses again. The canyon narrows even more and, after a few more creek crossings, the path brings you to Manzana Camp. Located beneath picturesque live oak, the camp offers a dependable water supply, fishing and swimming pools. The manzanita, which gave its name to half the geographical features around here, abounds.

Beyond this camp, the trail switchbacks up onto the east wall of the canyon, then soon descends to Manzana Narrows Camp. Wedged in the narrow canyon, the oak- and willow-shaded camp offers pools for fishing and cooling off.

Return the same way.

Manzana Creek Trail

NIRA to Lost Valley Camp: 2 miles round trip; 100-foot elevation gain. NIRA to Fish Creek Camp: 6 miles round trip; 400-foot elevation gain. NIRA to Manzana Camp: 12 miles round trip; 1,100-foot elevation gain. NIRA to Manzana Narrows: 14 miles round trip; 1,200-foot elevation gain.