Block Island Offers Tranquility Off New England

An hour out to sea, the first faint outlines of the tiny island emerged from the mist like a picture slowly coming into focus.

As the little ferry chugged its way into the quiet harbor, it quickly became clear that we had traveled far more than the 14 miles stepped off on the nautical chart. Like mythical time travelers we had been transported back to an infinitely calmer, more serene era.

Our greeting party, a row of shiny white Victorian hotels, hugged the harbor as they stood at attention like soldiers at muster.

The distant call of a foghorn blended nicely with the intermittent chatter of the circling gulls. The nautical symphony faced no competition from any automobile engine.

The entire scene brought to mind a 19th-Century New England still life. But if Block Island, resting comfortably in the Atlantic Ocean east of Long Island, is 19th Century in ambiance and appearance, it is certainly 20th Century in outlook.

Be prepared for 20th-Century luxury--and prices--on your visit to this charming little New England offshore island.

Block Island spreads over only 3 1/2 by seven miles. Salt box houses, like lonely sentries, keep watch over the wind-swept terrain marked by sand dunes, swamps and wild shrubbery.

Stunning Beaches

Miles of stunning beaches line the shore and more than 200 ponds dot the island. Wild roses tumble over the meandering stone walls that crisscross the island.

Much of the southern coast is sheltered by wild bluffs, rising sharply more than 200 feet. The most famous, Mohegan Bluffs, is a must for any visitor.

For the faint-hearted, a newly built series of steps descends to the rocky beach where, on windy days, huge waves crash against the rocks, beckoning body surfers. Nude bathers congregate a little farther up the beach, watched closely by the imposing old southeast lighthouse, the largest in New England.

On foot, a day or two should be enough to explore the entire island. An automobile, if you can find one, is unnecessary unless you’re on a tight schedule. Bicycles are an ideal mode of transportation and can be rented for around $5 a day.

The ubiquitous mopeds are to Block Island what the horseless carriage was to many in the 1890s--an unpleasant distraction.

A running battle rages between proprietors of the noisy little two-wheelers and island traditionalists who claim that the mopeds disturb the peace and tranquillity of man and beast.

If you can withstand the withering stares and “noped” bumper stickers, a moped may be the easiest and quickest way to see the sights.

Whatever mode of transportation you choose, several points of interest should not be missed.

One is the Island Cemetery. You will find it on a rise overlooking Great Salt Pond at New Harbor.

Classic New England Names

The gravestones, well-shaded by spreading sumacs, bear classic New England names like Dodge, Peckham and Sheffield and date to the 17th Century.

You could be in Thornton Wilder’s “Our Town” waiting for the stage manager to come out and tell you the story of early island settlers such as trustworthy Dodge Senior, who died in 1683, or Capt. Shores of Taunton, Mass., who perished on the Empress on May 20, 1844, after sailing out of New York Harbor bound for Richmond.

If you’re anywhere near the post office, stop in and see Fred Benson, a rather unlikely island celebrity. Benson is 92 years old, has been president of the chamber of commerce four times and remains an active real estate salesman.

Benson, who is black, came to the island in 1903 as an orphan and was adopted by a white family. His original foster parents have long since died but Benson, who never married, continues to live with their fifth-generation descendants. Outside of an 18-month stretch, he has never lived anywhere else.

He sits in his tiny office surrounded by pictures of celebrities he has met, including Walter Cronkite. Benson, appearing 20 years younger than he is, sports a broad-brimmed hat and thick glasses as he snaps out yarns of local folklore.

“Sure we had rum running here, but that John Greenleaf Whittier poem (“The Palatine”) just isn’t true. Islanders never tried to lure that ship onto the rocks to steal its cargo,” he said with just a hint of a mischievous smile.

Nine years ago Benson won $50,000 in the Rhode Island lottery. The prize came in the form of an annuity that he promptly sold for its cash value. He used part of the proceeds to throw a party for residents and the rest to establish a scholarship fund for college-bound island youth.

If you wish to explore the island you’ll find numerous secluded coves with names such as Sugarloaf and Deadmans, for swimming and rock collecting.

Nature Trails Abound

Hikers and wildlife enthusiasts may explore a series of nature trails called the Maze. At the northern tip are rolling sand dunes where sea gulls nest and a lonely deserted lighthouse keeps guard over their jealously protected nesting grounds.

At sunset the action shifts to Traitor Vic’s, just down the hill from the cemetery at New Harbor. This is where the yacht set meet to share a drink at the end of a day on the water.

The outdoor bar/patio provides a bird’s-eye view of the richly appointed yachts and colorful sailboats as they glide in and out of the shimmering harbor.

The New Shoreham, National, Surf and the Harborside, all gracious relics from the last century, are so close to the water that you can almost order dinner from the ferry.

Waitresses in khakis and blue polo shirts deliver drinks to patrons relaxing on the broad whitewashed front porch of the Harborside. Next door, a slightly off-key troubadour strums his guitar for revelers partying at the National.

Shops full of island souvenirs, sand dollars and white duck summer wear border Water Street. Next door an old-fashioned homemade ice cream parlor features antique photographs of island glories of another day.

Eating lobster rolls under brilliant red umbrellas at the Harborside, or more cheaply at outdoor tables overlooking the ferry at Finns, is also not a bad way to pass a lazy afternoon.

Don’t miss the large succulent steamers served on the beachside deck at Ballards, where the sound of the surf mixes well with the friendly banter of the summer college help.

More upscale is the Block Island Broiler. It’s just the right mixture of fancy and casual but the nouvelle cuisine, prepared by Donald the chef, is extraordinary. My recommendation is the tuna for $17.50, although the swordfish at $17.25 won’t disappoint.

An added plus is that on any given night you will see someone you recognize. For us it was Father Daniel Berrigan dining at the next table.

Sunset Snacks

Good food abounds on the island. Among the best are the moderately priced Tiffany’s, where the burritos for under $5 are good and filling, and the Atlantic Inn, where sunset snacks are served on a deck with the best views of the island.

Just down the road is the Manisses. Don’t be fooled by the relatively simple exterior; this inn, whose name translates to “Island of the Little Gods,” is beautifully and richly appointed.

Both the Manisses and the nearby 1661 Inn are jointly owned and guests eat a complimentary and abundant buffet breakfast each morning on a flower-strewed deck overlooking the ocean.

The 1661 is charming, but if you have a choice, choose the Manisses.

Expect period rooms, lush carpeting, blown glass fixtures, firm mattresses and excellent service, including a brandy decanter in every room. There is even a red velvet bridal suite with a Jacuzzi.

Rumor has it that Billy Joel made his pitch to Christie Brinkley here. You will not want to leave. Write to both the 1661 Inn and the Manisses: Spring Street, Block Island, R.I. 02807. Rates for both, $70 to $170, double occupancy, about half that during the off-season.

Farther up the hill is the imposing and newly renovated Springhouse Hotel. Rimmed by broad verandas featuring white wicker furniture, it is set graciously on a rise with sweeping views of the shore.

Two- and three-bedroom suites decorated in chintz and pastels with brass and mahogany are for sale to private investors. A delicious breakfast, included in the suite rate, is served in a large sun-washed dining room with polished floors and cheerful young waitresses. Rates $75 to $150. Springhouse Hotel, Ocean Avenue, Block Island, R.I. 02807.

On the other side of town the Blue Dory Inn, alleged to have been a haven for rum runners, offers individual rooms and small, charmingly appointed one- and two-bedroom cottages.

After a simple breakfast, guests can walk a few yards to Crescent Beach, the longest and most beautiful beach on the island. Blue Dory Inn, Dodge Street, Block Island, R.I. 02807. Rates $85-$120 in-season, about half that during the off-season.

For visitors on a budget, island accommodations include several bed and breakfast inns as well as smaller guest houses and summer cottages.

Wherever you stay on this laid-back little island, sit back and enjoy the rare opportunity to escape the hassles and pressures of everyday life in a place where time appears to have stood still.

A scheduled ferry runs year-round to Block Island from Point Judith, R.I., up in Narragansett Bay. This departure point is easily reachable by automobile from Boston and New York. There is ample space to leave your car, and the 14-mile trip to the island takes just more than an hour.

Adult fares are $5 one way, $8 same-day round trip.

Reservations for pedestrians are not necessary, but if you’re stubborn enough to want to bring your car, you will need reservations months in advance. One-way charge for an automobile is $16.

From June through September, ferry service is also available from Providence and Newport, R.I., New London, Conn., and from Montauk, N.Y., near the east end of Long Island.

Scheduled air service is offered all year from Westerly, R.I.

Block Island weather is ideal. The ocean keeps the temperature warmer in winter and cooler in summer than you might expect. During the peak season, late May to early October, expect daytime temperatures in the 70s to 80s with a dip into the 60s by nighttime. This translates into ideal beach weather. October temperatures reach the low 60s, falling to the 40s by evening.

Expect to pay top prices for first-class accommodations, which include breakfast and private baths. Rates range from $150 for a deluxe double room down to $40 for a night at a bed and breakfast.

Summer cottages also can be let by the week, month or season. Reservations are recommended during the season and particularly on weekends.

Many places are closed from mid-November through early April, so check ahead. But for those remaining open, rates are 50% to 60% lower than during the peak season.

For more information, contact the Block Island Chamber of Commerce, Drawer D, Block Island, R.I. 02807, phone (401) 466-2982.