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FOOD : Fish and Dips : Salmon Is on a Royal Roll--Even in This Reduced- Calorie Variation

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<i> Betsy Balsley is The Times' food editor</i>

IF THERE IS any doubt in your mind that salmon is “in,” a quick review of the many menus served to the Duke and Duchess of York during their visit here a couple of weeks ago should disabuse you of that notion. Salmon in one form or another showed up at almost every meal the royals faced. And salmon in one form or another also appears on many of Southern California’s glitzy restaurant menus. At the same time, dips are coming back. Not the calorie-laden dips of yesteryear, however; today’s dips are scaled down in fats but up in flavors. In our recipe, yogurt replaces cream cheese, and Belgian endive replaces crackers or chips.

Just in case salmon has lost its appeal, we offer an alternative: a luscious crab dip that calls for reduced-calorie cream cheese and low-calorie mayonnaise.

BELGIAN ENDIVE WITH SALMON DIP 4 heads Belgian endive 1/2 cup yogurt cup minced celery2 tablespoons minced shallots2 tablespoons minced pimiento2 tablespoons minced fresh dill weed1 teaspoon grated lemon peel 1/2 pound cooked salmon, chilled and flakedFew drops hot pepper sauce Wash endive and pat dry. Trim root ends and separate leaves. Combine yogurt, celery, shallots, pimiento, dill weed and lemon peel. Gently stir in salmon. Season to taste with hot-pepper sauce. Pile mixture into shallow bowl and tuck endive leaves around edges. Makes about 2 cups dip.

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HOT CRAB DIP 1 (8-ounce) package Neufchatel or other low-calorie cream cheese cup low-calorie mayonnaise2 tablespoons low-fat milk2 teaspoons creamed horseradish2 tablespoons lemon juice cup chopped green onions cup chopped, toasted, slivered almonds 1/2 pound cooked crab meat or surimi, flakedSalt, white pepperBelgian endive leaves or crisp, raw vegetables cut into bite-size pieces Blend cheese, mayonnaise, milk, horseradish and lemon juice until well mixed and smooth. Stir in onions, almonds and crab meat. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Spoon mixture into shallow, oven-proof, 2- to 3-cup serving dish and bake at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until heated through. Stir lightly and serve hot. Makes 1 3/4 cups dip.

Photographed by Susan Marie Anderson / Styled by Susan Southcott and Brian J. Toffoli / Plates courtesy of the Prince’s Table, Beverly Hills, and the Pavilion at Tanner Market, Pasadena.

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