FOOD : Shell Game : New Zealand’s Large Green Mussels Make Perfect Appetizers

AMONG THE NICER foods New Zealand has contributed to Southern California dining are the beautiful green mussels to be found in this island nation’s coastal waters. The dark-green-tipped shells conceal delicate morsels of flesh that may be a pale creamy beige or a clear orange-apricot color, depending on whether the mussel is male or female. (Unlike many pairs in nature, in the case of these interesting mollusks, the female is the more colorful of the two.) Larger than many varieties of mussels, the “greens” from New Zealand are becoming better known and more sought after in this country. While they grow naturally throughout the tidal areas in New Zealand’s coastal waters, a steady increase in supply for dining tables throughout the world has developed from New Zealand’s growing aquaculture industry.

There are numerous ways to serve these attractive shellfish, of course, but they are particularly nice when served as a cold appetizer. In the following recipe, the mussels are steamed, then chilled in a lightly gingered marinade. Served on the half shell, they make an easy and most attractive presentation for a first course for a dinner party.

MARINATED GREEN MUSSELS 18 green mussels 2 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon peeled and slivered ginger root sweet red pepper, cut in very thin strips 4 green onions, white part only cut in very thin strips Pepper Scrub mussels under cold running water with brush, scraping off beards. Discard any with opened shells that don’t close when touched. Place mussels on rack over boiling water in large pan or steamer. Cover and steam about 5 minutes or until mussel shells pop open. Discard any whose shells don’t open.

Drain mussels and remove from shells, retaining deepest shell half of each. Set reserved shells aside and place mussels in small deep bowl. Add lemon juice and olive oil, stirring to coat well. Add ginger root, red pepper and onions, tossing lightly. Season to taste with pepper. Cover and refrigerate several hours, stirring occasionally.

To serve, toss mussels to coat well and place one mussel on each shell half. Top with several sprigs of vegetables and ginger root. Sprinkle with small amount of marinade. Makes about 6 appetizer servings.

Photographed by Teri Sandison / Styled by Norman Stewart