FOOD : Pamper Yourself : After Lobster on Brioche, Who Can Face a Tuna Sandwich?

OBVIOUSLY, THIS IS not a sandwich to toss into a brown-bag lunch--unless there’s a strong urge to indulge in a bit of self-pampering. It is, however, a very suitable choice for a luncheon get-together or for a light Sunday-night supper. It also would fit nicely into an after-theater supper menu.

Serve the sandwich with a well-chilled California Chardonnay or a slightly tart Chenin Blanc, and settle for a bit of cheese and fruit or a fruit tart for dessert. That way you’ll have a menu that can be completely prepared in advance, leaving you with little to do at the last minute except plan to enjoy yourself.

LOBSTER SALAD SANDWICH 1 1/2 to 2 pounds fresh or frozen lobster in shell 1/2 cucumber, peeled cup sliced water chestnuts 3 green onions, cut in 1-inch pieces and julienned 1 hard-cooked egg, chopped 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon chili sauce cup mayonnaise Salt, white pepper 1 cup shredded lettuce Individual brioches Cook and chill lobster. Extract meat from shell and shred or chop. (Lobster should measure about 1 cup.) Cut cucumber in quarters lengthwise, remove seeds, then slice thinly. Combine lobster, cucumber, water chestnuts, green onions, egg, lemon juice, chili sauce and mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill mixture well, covered.

At serving time, add shredded lettuce and toss to mix well. Split brioches, cutting about inch below top of bottom portions. Using top knots as handles, set tops aside. Scoop out portion of centers of brioche bottoms. Fill with lobster salad mixture. If desired, place tops lightly on filling and fasten in place with long, fancy skewers. Makes 4 lobster sandwiches.

Note: One cup crab meat may be substituted for lobster.

Photographed by John Reed Forsman / Food stylist, Norman Stewart / Dishes courtesy of Lynne Deutch Ltd. / Flowers courtesy of Menagerie