The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Al’s Steakhouse & Saloon, 16020 E. 1st St., Santa Ana . (714) 550-0847 . Open daily 5 to 10 p.m. (until 11 on weekends). Just as our waitress promised, there is “nothin’ fancy, just food” at this urban steakhouse that looks as if it belongs alongside one of those old highways made obsolete by the interstates. Appetizers are served on large, cast-iron skillets, and there is a giant relish tray with all meals. Salad dressings are homemade and include a very good Caesar and a thick, hearty ranch. Steaks can be tough, but non-steak items are terrific, like barbecued pork ribs, an entire slab, and lamb chops, six mini-chops marinated in garlic and flame broiled. Bionic baked potatoes and heaps of steamed veggies ride sidesaddle. Be hungry, or have a big dog waiting at home.

Best Place Restaurant, 9693 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove. (714) 638-3600. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Korean cuisine is remarkable--full of musk and smoky flavors. A stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard has a number of places to experience it. Look no further: Best Place Restaurant, a barbecue house serving stews, grills, griddles and even sushi should satisfy all your needs. Try the gool bo sam , a large platter of raw oysters, salt pork, white radish and Chinese cabbage; you roll everything up and eat it like a taco. Pa jeon is a giant pancake with green onion, pork and red pepper. Sit on low cushions and barbecue beef on a tableside grill, just like the Korean families do it. Remarkably addictive.

Capriccio Italiano Ristorante, 25830 Marguerite Parkway, Village Mall, Mission Viejo. (714) 855-6866. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4 to 9:30; weekends 4 to 9:30.

Capriccio may mean “whim” in Italian, but there is nothing whimsical about the food in this restaurant; it is polished and sophisticated. For my money, it is a real find. The kitchen is run by two brothers from Palermo, Sal and Franco Maniaci, but there is barely a trace of Sicilan influence in the dishes they serve. Appetizers like vitello tonnato and lumache del bosco are marvelous, and pastas are fresh and homemade. Many main dishes have French overtones, like a stylish lamb rack with truffles and foie gras , or a civet of hare called lepre salmi. Cappriccio’s location is modest, and so are prices, but its class is obvious.

The Clay Oven, 15345 Jeffrey Road, Irvine. (714) 552-2851. Open Tuesdays through Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

The Clay Oven is an Indian restaurant inauspiciously located in a country shopping mall and specializing in dishes from the tandoor, the authentic oven advertised by the restaurant’s name. Fish tikka, here made with chunks of broiled swordfish, is downright heavenly, and tandoori chicken, rubbed red with a spice mixture and broiled until sizzling, is another winner. There is an interesting selection of vegetable dishes, as well. Wash everything down with giant bottles of imported Indian beer and lament the fact that most of the really exotic specialties you see displayed on the menu won’t be available.

Dewi, 1762 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 637-1101, and 9606 Hamilton Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 962-4446. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Hurry over--while there is still time--to Dewi in Orange, a small Indonesian restaurant/grocery store hidden among commercial properties along a busy avenue. Nasi rames is a mixed rice plate with a whole cookbook full of Indonesian goodies, and the restaurant has fabulous barbecued chicken and hot stewed beef dishes. Owner Edith Vredevoogd is constantly preparing little snacks like lemper , a sticky rice roll filled with minced chicken, or cendol , mysterious green bits taken with crushed ice, syrup and jackfruit. Don’t despair if you miss the Orange restaurant, though. There is a second Dewi run by Mrs. V’s brother in Huntington Beach. Exotica at its best.

The Golden Truffle, 1767 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa. (714) 645-9858 . Open Tuesdays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Tuesdays through Thursdays, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 6 to 10 p.m.

The Golden Truffle is an eccentric restaurant with an eclectic menu that defies rhythm or logic. Chef Alan Greeley is whimsical; he cooks for the sheer pleasure of it, and it mostly tastes terrific. Bay shrimp cocktail Yucatan is like a combination gazpacho-ceviche, with tiny shrimp and chunky pieces of avocado, immobilized in a thick, tangy puree of tomato and chili. Broiled marinated skirt steak with pinto beans and cactus is a triumph. Nothing else on the menu will prepare you for it. There is a wide selection of premium wines and bistro-like desserts. The ambience is relaxed and casual, like a high school friend’s livingroom.

JW’s, in the Anaheim Marriott Hotel, 700 W. Convention Way, Anaheim . (714) 750-0900 . Open Mondays through Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.

JW’s is one of those staunchly old-school special occasion restaurants, but the food is somewhat innovative and of surprisingly high quality. Appetizers show a certain daring, like home-grown foie gras served on a potato galette in a Madeira sauce, or escargot ravioli with wild mushrooms. Main dishes show enthusiasm as well, and the sauces accompanying them are generally big hits. Roast boar comes drenched with a simple sauce of sage, juniper and honey, and has a robust spiciness. Venison comes in a sauce based on red wine vinegar. Prices are definitely on the high end, service attentive and manicured. It is fail-safe the way only a good hotel restaurant can be.

La Mer Genkai, 540 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (714) 497-6799. Open daily from 5:30 p.m.

La Mer Genkai is a restaurant with something for everybody: the food is Frenchified Japanese, with more than a hint of California thrown in for good measure. Belly up to the sushi bar for such designer treats as “dynamite,” a seaweed wrapped cone with tuna, daikon sprouts and Japanese chili. Or sit in the woodsy dining room with the pink back lighting and ape at sauteed duck in raspberry butter served rose petal-style, and simple salmon teriyaki. Both traditional and non-traditional dishes are given a field day in this noisy, exuberant restaurant. Yuppies are especially welcome.

Marrakesh, 1100 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach . (714) 645-8384. Open weekdays 6 to 10 p.m., weekends 5:30 to 11 p.m.

Eat with your fingers without fear of recrimination from your mother at Marrakesh, a Moroccan restaurant in Newport Beach. You sit on cushions at a low table in a tent-like room and manhandle your way through a traditional, multicourse dinner served by waiters in desert garb. Begin with harira , the spicy lentil broth, and assorted salads eaten with local bread. B’stilla , a chicken and egg pie topped with cinnamon and sugar, will follow, and then a choice of main dishes including quail, rabbit and couscous, the grain staple eaten throughout north Africa. It’s a sensual, completely delightful way to spend an evening.

Mi Rincon, 7001 S. Bristol St., Santa Ana . (714) 836-9482 . Open daily except Monday s from noon to 9 p.m., weekends until 10 p.m.

Mi Rincon specializes in Peruvian cuisine, a mingling of Indian and Spanish influences with a host of original twists. Ceviche, the seafood appetizer of marinated raw fish so often identified as Mexican, is really Peruvian in origin, and Maria Leva, the chef here, makes one of the best versions ever. Papas a la Huancaina is a classic dish from northern Peru, whole boiled potatoes blanketed with a rich sauce made from cheese, cream, chili, and olive oil. Arroz con pato is an amazing braised duck specialty with coriander rice. Watch out for Inca Cola, a pale yellow monstrosity that tastes like liquid bubble gum. Everything else is a delight.

Orange Blossom, 3804 E. Chapman, Orange. (714) 633-1888. Open daily from 4:30 p.m. Beijing, 2940 E. Chapman, Orange . (714) 744-2491. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Orange Blossom and Beijing are two radically different Chinese restaurants within shouting distance of one another on Chapman Avenue in the city of Orange. Orange Blossom is a dinner house that faces West in spirit, Beijing is primarily a lunch place with an Eastern bent. Orange Blossom has innovative dishes like butterfly eggplant with a cream cheese filling, and minced pigeon in lettuce cups. Beijing has terrific Mandarin chicken in a vinegary sauce, and twice-cooked pork, a fiery Szechuan specialty that has been boiled, then pan-fried with vegetables. Both restaurants are winners.

Sun Hai, 8940 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove, Suite 114. (714) 552-2851. Open daily except Mondays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

This tiny hole-in-the-mini-mall, in a quiet Korean neighborhood in Garden Grove, serves some of the best Chinese dumplings you will ever taste, at laughably low prices. Best are pan-fried dumplings, eight to an order, perfectly browned, crunchy, and toothsome, eaten with rice vinegar and Korean chili paste. Also wonderful is the restaurant’s spicy fried chicken, a sumptuously blended dish of red and green chili, green onion, and little bits of batter-fried chicken that have been rolled in pepper salt. Nobody here speaks very good English, but the smiles generated by the food are more than you will need to communicate.

The Wine Cellar at the Newporter Resort, 1107 Jamboree Road, Newport Beach . (714) 644-1700 . Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 6 to 10 p.m.

The Wine Cellar is Orange County’s newest temple of haute cuisine . Menus are rotated every week and consist of five courses, designed by Jean Banchet of Le Francais in Wheeling, Ill., one of the most famous chefs in the world today. Menu VI--which begins with a cold pheasant pate with green chartreuse, continues with a stuffed filet of sole in a champagne sauce, and features grilled squab with green cabbage and natural juices--is one of six prix fixe menus presented by executive chef Ted Gray, and it is a knockout. You won’t find better French cuisine anywhere in the state.