Costa de Levante, Spain’s Less-Traveled Coastline

Heading south on the train from Madrid, my destination was the Costa de Levante, which was named for the winds that occasionally blow north from the Sahara and make the coast unbearably hot (not to be confused with the Levant of the Eastern Mediterranean).

The Spanish Levant lies between Spain’s two largest resort areas--the Costa Blanca to the north and the Costa del Sol to the southwest.

Less accessible, the Levant survived the high-rise horrors of the 1960s, but now it is waking up. It even has an English-language newspaper, The Entertainer, whose name aptly explains why foreigners come to the south of Spain: for the fun of it.

Fortunately, foreign investors can only develop part of this Levant. Much of the coast is only accessible by dirt roads that sometimes end at a deserted cove or beach.

It is a pleasure to be stranded in these places, floating in the Mediterranean’s cleanest water while gazing down a coastline that has not changed since Phoenician silk traders navigated its irregular coves and cliffs.

On the night train from Madrid we crossed the meseta , the huge mountainous plateau that forms most of the Iberian Peninsula.

In Almeria, one of seven Andalusian provinces, the meseta evolves into mountains of dry, crumbling rock. This rolling desert occasionally opens to irrigated plains, but the mountains always rise again, shadowing dry creek beds that lead to the Mediterranean.

At the sea, Almeria has transformed its poverty into opportunity. For the first time since the Moorish occupation, Almeria is becoming a wealthy province. Its modern resource is tourism. Every year 40 million tourists visit Spain, and most of them come to the coasts.

Geological Border

The city of Almeria rests on a dramatic geological border, buffering the contrast between arid mountains and the brilliant Mediterranean.

Palm-lined avenues shade this modern port, but a visit to its fortress, the Alcazaba, puts time into perspective. The Alcazaba, built by the Phoenicians and expanded by the Moors, towers over a thriving commercial center.

Almeria flourished during Moslem domination from AD 711 to AD 1492, and the Arab influence is still visible in the faces of its people and its architecture.

The town has only a few reminders of the impoverished, drought-ridden years that began with the Catholic kings and ended with Franco.

Beggars and Gypsies occasionally appear in the modern financial district, entertaining merchants and business people with impromptu flamenco and creative sidewalk circus acts.

Almeria is an excellent place to relax for a day or two before heading north to the Levant Coast. Avoid traveling west from Almeria unless you are interested in vintage ‘60s high-rise resorts. The Almeria resort cities of Aquadulce and Roquetas de Mar are smaller versions of their towering prototypes along the Costa del Sol.

Throughout Spain the bus is the best means of intercity travel. It will get you almost everywhere along the Andalusian Coast. Besides saving money, overnight buses will entertain you with video systems loaded with Spanish-dubbed American classics.

Spanish bus stations are a thrill in themselves, usually equipped with a bar, slot machines and a variety of tapas --small oval dishes of Andalusian finger food.

Tourist Magnet

From Almeria, two buses go daily to Mojacar, 94 kilometers northeast.

Mojacar is geographically spectacular, precariously hanging from the foothills of the Sierra Cabrera.

From the town square you get an expansive view of a wide valley floor spotted with palms, small orange groves and farmhouses. In the distance are the ubiquitous mountains, tapering slowly into the Mediterranean.

For two kilometers, a steep road winds down to Mojacar’s developing beach front. With a two-story height restriction and a temporary halt on new building, residents are hopeful that their beach will not be ruined. There is still plenty of room to stretch and take an isolated swim, but for company, there are many beach bars where visitors meet.

At El Patio you will find expatriate artists from all over the world. At Tito’s you can lounge a bit more elegantly, enjoying a drink or meal while gazing at the surf.

Tito’s attracts a bizarre and fashionable crowd. If you prefer a more conventional atmosphere, visit Pueblo Indalo Beach. From there you can windsurf, water ski . . . or do absolutely nothing.

Mojacar and the Levant Coast have been spared the stigma so often attached to the hot spots of southern Spain. Valid or not, stereotype has it that certain Spanish resorts cater to certain types of people: Marbella for the rich, Torremolinos for the rowdy, Benidorm for the desperate and Ibiza for the esoteric.

Mojacar has yet to be classified; from touring Swedish families to Andalusian romantics, its population is too diverse for typecasting.

The center of Mojacar is compact, retaining its original Moorish architecture and mood.

Irregular narrow streets wind between terraced shops, bars and restaurants, and all traffic is on foot. There is no room for cars, so even if the streets get crowded, Mojacar seems relaxed. The town square, surrounded by small shops and cafes, is the busiest meeting place in town.

The best time to visit Mojacar is in the fall. The town will be quiet, the weather will be warm (Almeria province averages 320 sunny days a year) and the water will be inviting.

Rest in Luxury

Like its visitors, Mojacar’s accommodations are varied. You can rest in the luxury of the Parador de Mojacar ($80 double, U.S.) or can stay in the practical beach apartments of Pueblo Indalo ($60).

You have many choices in between, including the Hotel Continental ($50) and the budget Seis Estrellas ($15). If you enjoy camping, pitch a tent at one of the beach front camping areas ($8).

There are many excellent restaurants in Mojacar specializing in the usual Andalusian entrees: swordfish, calamary, rabbit, lamb and shellfish. Restaurant Horno serves Mojacar’s best traditional meals, and a place called Los Gurullos serves an excellent regional pasta soup. It’s addicting.

As a rule, the food is better in the Spanish-owned restaurants, but a visit to such places as the Sin Numero and Gordon’s Bar (both English-owned) can be entertaining.

Locals come to the Sin Numero to enjoy the food and the view, while the English come to eat and watch rock videos at the bar.

Others Mojacar’s diversions.

In Turre, just four kilometers inland, I saw no tourists. Yes, there was a “real” Spain on the Levant, and so close by.

The short trip to Turre provides a change from Mojacar as well as a good way to save some money.

At Turre’s Hostal Grice, a double goes for $15 in low season. This hotel, unspectacular but comfortable, has an excellent Andalusian restaurant (never more than $9 for a complete meal with wine) that specializes in shellfish soup.

Farther along the Levant between Punta de los Muertos and San Jose, I found the coast filled with unmarked dirt roads that wind along an unspoiled shore. The best way to explore this area by car.

At the harbor town of San Jose, vacation homes are scattered on the hillside. Just south of town an unmarked dirt road climbs past palm groves and isolated coves. That road ends at Cabo de Gata, and so does the Levant Coast. The city haze of Almeria rises in the distance.

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The fastest way to get from Madrid to Almeria is on Iberia Airlines for $86. The one flight a day leaves at 8:35 p.m.

Spain, once a land of bargains, is rapidly catching up with Northern European prices. An easy and comfortable way to save a few pesetas is to travel by bus. The bus is more reliable than Spanish trains, and about 25% cheaper.

The bus will take you to most towns on the Levant Coast. Still, the only way to explore the remote areas is by car.

Rentals are available in Mojacar, but they are cheaper in Almeria. Hertz has locations at the Almeria airport and downtown ($19 a day, plus 2 cents a mile), but local companies are cheaper.

Cuevas de Almanzora, 24 miles north of Mojacar, is a bustling town of about 10,000, with a hillside of inhabited caves. Nijar, about 33 miles southwest of Mojacar, is small and picturesque. The town sits at the foot of the Sierra Alhamillas, and its small church and square seem sculpted from the mountains above. Nijar, visitors agree, is a good choice for one of those long afternoon siestas.

For more information on travel to Spain, contact the National Tourist Office of Spain, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Los Angeles 90211, phone (213) 658-7188.