With $2 Million in Sales, He Has Nothing to Crab About

Three years ago, Joseph Bernard was selling seafood seasoning out of the back of his van. Now, however, he can call himself the Frank Perdue of crabs.

Bernard sees himself as doing for Maryland’s prized crustaceans what Perdue, the East Coast’s leading provider of packaged processed chicken, has done for the lowly barnyard fowl. The renegade Eastern Shore businessman, under his Wye River logo, is selling packages of seasoned, microwaveable steamed crabs.

Some might consider what Bernard has wrought blasphemy.

A 24-year employee of Baltimore’s Faidley’s Fish Market shook his head at the thought of it.

Faidley’s cooks crabs the way they’ve been prepared since one brave soul discovered that the hard-shelled blue creatures would turn pink and tasty after being steamed. But the Faidley’s employee calls Bernard a “smart young guy, “ adding grudgingly, “If he wants to do it, he’ll probably find a way to make it work.”

Bernard, 34, wants to do it. And if his history in the crab business is any indication, he probably will find a way to make it work.

Business Begun in Garage

Bernard, now president of Wye River Products, opened his business in a garage with $18,000 in 1985. After working in the food business for 11 years, he decided to come up with an alternative to Old Bay Seasoning, which had had a monopoly in the Maryland crab market for about 50 years and also was distributed nationally.

“When you wanted to steam crabs, for years you only had one choice,” Bernard said from his home in Queenstown on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. “I thought people were ready for a choice.”

But in Maryland, Bernard said, no one wanted to challenge Old Bay, which to many crab lovers is as much a part of steamed crab as hot water.

“Nobody felt they could come out against them,” Bernard said. “It was like coming out with a new cola against Coke and Pepsi. But I did it.” Bernard began selling his spice--which now comes in black and red varieties--in Baltimore from the back of a van. To his surprise, he sold out his stock within a week and was receiving requests for more.

“I hit a big crab year,” he said. “I was lucky--I was amazed. There is a lot of salesmanship to it, but a lot of people gave me a shot at it.”

Crab Soups Came Next

After his success with seasoning, Bernard launched his crab soups, which now contribute the largest portion of his $2 million in annual sales.

By the start of this year’s crab season, Bernard’s Wye River products were in 5,000 stores--in nearly every major food sales chain and in gourmet shops up and down the East Coast.

Bernard’s products are also exported to Tokyo, and he is expanding domestically into Pennsylvania and Florida.

Last year was the first for his microwave crabs, which sell in packages of six for $9.95.

“It’s not for everybody,” Bernard acknowledged, “but it’s for somebody who doesn’t want to steam them for themselves.”

Won’t Sell--Yet

What’s next for Wye River? A line of fresh back fin and jumbo lump crab meat and a Silver Queen corn tortilla chip, Bernard says.

What about selling out? Bernard said he has received offers from larger companies who want to buy Wye River, but, he said, he is not going to sell.

“I went into the business to be happy--not to be a millionaire. I have two young sons who I want to turn the business over to. I guess I’ll be around for a few more years at least.”