3 great picnics for the 4th : Whether It’s a Meal of Burgers and Hot Dogs, a Classic Cold Bird for Two or an Assortment of Unusual Sausages, a Fourth of July Outdoor Feast Is Cause for Celebration in the Southland

When it comes to picnicking, most Southern Californians are past masters of how to pack and port food and other necessities for an alfresco meal in an efficient and pleasurable manner. It’s an ability that comes naturally with the location, like learning to drive the freeways with equanimity. But even an expert can use a little help now and then, particularly when faced with what is traditionally the biggest outdoor holiday celebration of the year. New portable menu ideas, designed to make the Fourth of July celebration a success, are always welcome.

It’s easy, of course, to stop at a deli or take-out and pick up some sandwiches or other goodies, but that really doesn’t provide the spark that an obviously carefully planned open air feast does. And, naturally, there’s no better day for a “super picnic” than the Fourth, a very special day for all of us. It won’t hurt a bit if a few glitzy touches are added to make this particular occasion a true outdoor celebration replete with bunting and banners and other red, white and blue reminders of what the day represents. The food doesn’t have to be exotic or even fancy, but a good picnic menu does have to go together and whet the appetite.

It matters not whether one plans a picnic for the family, a neighborhood outing or a romantic interlude for two. The fine art of dining around the pool, under a shady tree in the park or on the sand at your favorite beach all have the same requirement--good company and good food. Fresh air tends to build healthy appetites, so a picnic is no place for a make-do meal.

For a pool-side celebration, why not opt for a feast of unusual sausages? Grill five or six different types of sausages--Polish kielbasa, bratwurst, knackwurst, Italian sweet and hot sausages, garlic sausages and the like--over hot coals and then cut them into chunks to be served on warmed buns or rolls. Top the sausage sandwiches with apple-sweetened sauerkraut or serve it on the side if you prefer. For flavor contrast and color, add a multilayer hot bean casserole and you’ll have a menu that is easy, yet different.

Then, of course, there’s the out-and-out cold picnic classic, the cold-bird-and-bottle menu that is the epitome of the romantic pique-nique a deux, whether it’s planned for two or more. But even a classic such as this can take on more glamorous overtones when the fowl is Cornish hen and the accompaniments include a stunning papaya and asparagus appetizer and a chilled apricot-laced rice salad.

Those perennial picnic favorites hot dogs and hamburgers need to be a bit festive for this special occasion. So why not add a surprise hidden in the center of the ground beef patty in the form of a sneaky horseradish-flavored sauce. Or adapt the old Joe’s Special recipe that combines ground beef with egg and spinach in a patty that will taste delicious.

Hot dogs can be prepared in the form of kebabs or cut in chunks and mixed with a spicy tomato relish. Serve these in pita bread halves for something different.

Splurge on special breads or buns to go with these untraditional versions of traditional picnic foods and serve them with spicy deviled eggs, a vinegary cole slaw and a rich, well-chilled potato salad.

Not one of these picnic menus is based on exotic foods, but all have a few touches that take them out of the realm of the ordinary. And that’s what makes them special enough for our country’s birthday celebration. Here are the recipes.

CASUAL PICNIC

Mixed Sausage Grill Layered Beer Bean Pot Apple Sauerkraut Fresh Fruit Beer MIXED SAUSAGE GRILL

3 to 4 pounds assorted sausages (kielbasa, knackwurst, Italian sweet and/or hot links, bratwurst, etc.)

While coals are heating to ashy state, place sausages in heavy skillet or skillets and add hot water to depth of about 1/2 inch. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until water evaporates. Dry sausages on paper towels and arrange on open grill about 5 inches from coals. Grill, turning as needed, until sausages are browned and cooked through.

Slice in chunks or halves and serve assortment to each diner. Makes about 6 servings.

LAYERED BEER BEAN POT

1 cup minced onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon dry mustard

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

2 cups beer

Salt, pepper

1 (15-ounce) can butter beans

1 (15 1/4-ounce) can red kidney beans

1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans

1 (1-pound 1-ounce) can green lima beans

1 (15-ounce) can great northern beans

Combine onion, garlic, dry mustard, brown sugar and beer in bowl or measuring cup. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Layer butter beans, red kidney beans, pinto beans, green lima beans and great northern beans in casserole or bean pot, adding some of beer mixture between each layer. Pour any remaining beer mixture over beans. Cover and bake at 325 degrees 1 hour or place over low heat and simmer 40 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

APPLE SAUERKRAUT

4 slices bacon, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup chopped celery

2 green onions, chopped

1 (2-pound) jar sauerkraut, well rinsed and drained

1 cup apple juice

Zest of 1 lemon, cut in fine strips

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, optional

Salt, pepper

1 red apple, cut in thin wedges unpeeled

1 to 2 tablespoons Calvados

Fry bacon in large saucepan until golden and crisp. Add garlic, celery, green onions, sauerkraut, apple juice, lemon zest, sugar and caraway seeds if desired. Simmer, covered, 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in apple slices and Calvados. Simmer 5 minutes. Serve hot with sausages. Makes 8 servings.

ELEGANT PICNIC

Papaya and Asparagus With Shrimp Dip Cold Game Hens With Rosemary Minted Apricot Double Rice Salad Chilled Brie and Crackers Cookies White Wine

PAPAYA AND ASPARAGUS WITH SHRIMP DIP

1 pound slender asparagus, trimmed and cut in halves

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 red serrano chile, minced

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Salt

3 small papayas, cut in halves crosswise and seeded

Blanch asparagus in boiling salted water, drain and refresh in ice water. Reserve. Melt butter in skillet and saute garlic until lightly golden. Add shrimp and cook until done, about 5 minutes.

Place about 5 shrimp in food processor and reserve remaining. Process until ground. Add garlic butter drippings, cream cheese, mayonnaise, serrano chile, cilantro, lime juice and mustard. Season to taste with salt. Chill dip until ready to serve.

To serve spoon shrimp dip into papaya shells and serve with reserved drained asparagus and shrimp. Makes about 6 servings.

COLD GAME HENS WITH ROSEMARY

3 game hens, cut in halves

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/4 cup white wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

Dash white pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

Rosemary sprigs for garnish

Rub game hens with salt and pepper and place in single layer in glass dish or in sealable plastic bag. Melt butter in saucepan. Add garlic, wine, 1 tablespoon rosemary and white pepper. Pour mixture over game hens, coating well, and marinate at least 1/2 hour.

Drain hens, reserving marinade, and cook on grill over medium coals or broil until golden brown and cooked through. Baste often with marinade. Remove from heat and chill thoroughly. Serve cold, garnished with rosemary sprigs. Makes 3 to 6 servings.

MINTED APRICOT DOUBLE RICE SALAD

1 cup finely chopped dried apricots

2 tablespoons Triple Sec liqueur

Grated peel and juice of 1 orange

1 cup pecan halves

1 1/2 cups cooked and chilled wild rice

1 1/2 cups cooked and chilled white rice (preferably cooked in chicken broth)

3/4 cup chopped mint leaves

2 tablespoons light olive oil

Salt, pepper

Combine apricots, Triple Sec, orange peel and juice in small saucepan. Bring to boil. Remove from heat, set aside and let cool completely. Place pecans on baking sheet and roast at 350 degrees until lightly browned. Cool completely.

Drain apricots, reserving liquid. Combine apricots and any liquid left, wild and white rice, pecans and mint leaves, tossing lightly. Chill thoroughly.

At serving time, combine mixture with olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

TRADITIONAL PICNIC WITH TWIST

Joe’s Special Beef Burgers or Surprise Hamburgers Fun-Time Frankfurters or Frankfurter Pockets With Tomato Relish 24-Hour Cole Slaw Confetti Potato Salad Homemade Ice Cream and Cookies Iced Tea--Beer--Wine JOE’S SPECIAL BEEF BURGERS

3/4 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon oil

1/2 cup thawed and drained frozen chopped spinach

1 egg

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves

Salt, pepper

1 1/2 pounds ground beef chuck

6 buttered, toasted rolls

Cook onion slowly in oil until transparent but not browned. Add drained spinach and heat until liquid cooks away. Cool. Beat egg with oregano and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add beef and spinach mixture, mixing well with fork. Shape into 6 patties about 4 1/2 inches in diameter. Grill over hot coals to desired degree of doneness, turning once. Serve on toasted rolls. Makes 6 servings.

SURPRISE HAMBURGERS

1 1/2 pounds ground beef

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons horseradish

1 tablespoon catsup

2 tablespoons minced onion

6 hamburger buns, toasted

Season beef lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Shape mixture into 12 thin patties. Combine sour cream, horseradish, catsup and onion. Spoon mixture onto 6 patties and top with remaining patties. Seal edges well and broil 3 inches from source of heat 5 minutes on each side. Serve on toasted buns. Makes 6 servings.

FUN-TIME FRANKFURTERS

1 pound frankfurters, cut in 1-inch chunks

2 to 3 green peppers, cut in squares

10 slices bacon, partially cooked

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, drained

1 tablespoon honey

8 to 10 frankfurter buns

Alternate frankfurter chunks and green pepper squares on 10 skewers, weaving bacon strips around them. Combine mayonnaise, mustard, horseradish and honey. Brush over kebabs. Grill over low coals, 10 to 15 minutes, turning frequently and brushing with glaze. Place hot kebabs on open frankfurter buns and remove skewers. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

FRANKFURTER POCKETS WITH TOMATO RELISH

12 frankfurters

1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes, drained

1 cup chopped peeled cucumber

3/4 cup sliced green onions

3 tablespoons wine or cider vinegar

1 teaspoon oregano

12 to 18 Boston lettuce leaves

6 slices mozzarella cheese

3 large pita breads, cut in halves crosswise

Mayonnaise, optional

Grill frankfurters over coals to desired degree of doneness. Cut each into thirds crosswise. Combine tomatoes, cucumber, green onions, vinegar and oregano and mix well. Arrange 2 or 3 lettuce leaves and 1 slice of cheese in each pita bread pocket. Add small amount of tomato relish and fill with frankfurter chunks. Spoon more relish over frankfurters and add dollop of mayonnaise, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

24-HOUR SLAW

3/4 cup sugar

1 large head cabbage, shredded

2 large red onions, thinly sliced

Hot Dressing

Stir sugar into cabbage. Place half of cabbage in large bowl. Cover with onion slices. Top with remaining cabbage.

Pour boiling Hot Dressing over slowly. Do not stir. Cover and refrigerate at once. Chill 24 hours. Stir well before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Hot Dressing

1 teaspoon celery seeds

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 cup cider vinegar

1 cup oil

Combine celery seeds, sugar, mustard, salt and vinegar in saucepan. Bring to rolling boil. Add oil, stirring, and return to rolling boil.

CONFETTI POTATO SALAD

3/4 cup oil

1/3 cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon parsley flakes

2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil, crushed

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 pounds small red new potatoes

3/4 to 1 pound green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces and cooked

4 large carrots, peeled, sliced and cooked

1 cup mixed diced red, yellow and green peppers

Chopped chives

Combine oil, vinegar, parsley, salt, basil, onion and garlic powders and pepper in small jar with lid. Cover and shake well.

Cook new potatoes but do not peel. Drain and cut into chunks. Combine warm potatoes, beans, carrots and mixed peppers in large bowl. Toss gently. Pour in enough dressing to coat vegetables thoroughly. Cover and chill several hours, tossing occasionally. When ready to serve, add more dressing if needed. Chill any remaining dressing. Serve garnished with chives. Makes 8 servings.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane; Picnic baskets from Panda Baskets/Vincent Lippe