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Riverplace on Nicollet Island Is Worth a Visit

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<i> Merin is a New York City free-lance writer</i>

On sunny, sultry summer days the people of Minneapolis-St. Paul enjoy strolling along the banks of the mighty Mississippi River, broad and beautiful as it sweeps majestically through the Twin Cities. The embankments around and across from Nicollet Island are particularly appealing stretches of river front, where first-rate shopping and fine dining rival strolling as prime pastimes.

Several years ago this area, just minutes from downtown Minneapolis, suffered from urban blight. Abandoned warehouses were typical eyesores. Recently a consortium of local real estate developers and Japanese investors restored a sense of life to the area by building residences and reconstructing various commercial buildings as Riverplace, the top-quality shopping complex at 15-43 Main St. S.E.

Riverplace is a relaxed, spacious and appealing environment, with an almost suburban ambiance. Amid bowers of shade trees, patches of neatly mowed lawn and quaint cobbled streets, the complex offers sophisticated shopping and fine dining.

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The Riverplace complex is a handsome red-brick structure. The interior is outfitted with iron stairways with filigree banisters and glass-enclosed elevators. It has several levels and many nooks and crannies to explore. The architecture is attractive, with intriguing details. For example, the large and well-stocked Rizzoli bookstore occupies two levels, and the stairway linking them loops out over one of the building’s interior courtyards.

Fine Fashions

Several of Riverplace’s shops feature fine fashions. One of the most fascinating shops is By Design, which carries clothes by several Minneapolis designers. An entire wardrobe can be built around Laine Sou Johnson’s trendy and reasonably priced cotton or wool jersey knits. The collection includes snug-cut tunics ($58), figure-hugging tops with high turtle collars and cutout backs ($38), and clinging slacks ($58) in easily coordinated black, white and several brilliant colors.

Owner/designer Jill Habeck cuts and stitches easy-to-wear rayon harem pants ($70) and flowing duster coats ($100) with fashionable collars, pockets and sleeves. Connie Gilbert makes wonderful scarfs ($45). Lisa Lansbury specializes in hand-painted clothing and accessories. And Cindy Walker’s “Cee” label is applied to a collection of large, colorful costume jewelry including earrings, brooches and other pieces for $10 and up.

Maurizio has an appealing array of women’s casual wear including Jerico’s cotton jersey casuals in coordinated colors and patterns, with tops and bottoms at about $50 each. In addition, the shop features a wide variety of rayon separates, some loose-fitting for a stylish layered look and others that are more tailored.

Verducci has handbags, tote bags, briefcases and shoes in leather and eelskin. Especially attractive is a huge, sturdy black duffel bag priced at $220. It’s ideal for carrying purchases home.

Alfredo’s Wife offers ethnic clothing. Especially attractive are the brightly colored shorts ($32), dresses ($39) and dusters ($58) in heavy cotton, some embroidered with flowers or geometric patterns. There are also sweat shirts hand-painted with unusual designs, including striking geometric horses and other animals ($36).

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Alfredo’s Wife also stocks gift items. Look for pens shaped like parrots and other tropical creatures ($3), and handmade enamel memo magnets ($6) shaped like creatures of the wild or ice cream cones.

Wearables and Gifts

Bonita provides a good blend of imported wearables and gift items. Styles range from elaborately beaded and/or sequined dressy blouses ($60) to country casual tie-dyed cotton jersey tank tops and matching skirts ($57 a set) with tie-dyed scarfs ($20). For the home there are hand-loomed woolen rugs of various sizes ($25 for a rug the size of a pillowcase) and soft-sculptured birds ($38) made of colorful quilted fabrics. The birds are perched on metal hoops.

Minnesota Place has a big selection of local souvenirs, including theme T-shirts and more unusual items such as “Instant Minnesota” capsules ($2) that dissolve in water to release tiny colorful sponges shaped like the state, a pig and other things; a Minnesota dinner bell ($7); packages of wild rice ($8 per pound); Minnesota jigsaw puzzles ($8); Minnesota-made Thompson Berry Farm syrups ($5), and wooden sculptures of loons (Minnesota’s state bird, priced at $52 and up).

The Dreamcatcher offers crystals, stones and jewelry. Most special are “dreamcatchers” made by the Chippewa Indians, who believe the air is filled with good and bad dream spirits. They place dreamcatchers on the cradles of their children in the belief that bad spirits will be entrapped. These items, which look like delicate spider webs, are hand-woven of straw and/or leather strips, with feathers, crystals and fetishes captured in the weave. They are made in an array of sizes and are priced from $8 up. Beautiful beaded deerskin pouches ($10) for carrying fetishes or crystals are also available.

Fine Gem Collection

Antique Jewels has sweeping cases of sparkling gems in vintage settings, many in their original Van Cleef & Arpels or Tiffany boxes. The fine collection includes pieces from the 1920s and up to the ‘60s, with a marvelous selection of enamel jewelry. A gold rope English necklace with three large gray/blue pearls costs $790. A vintage 1920s ring with four sizable diamonds and four smaller sapphires set in gold filigree is priced at $2,400. The shop also has a good selection of vintage watches, including models by Rolex and other top-name manufacturers.

Amerinjeco sells fine American Indian arts and crafts. Much of the merchandise, ranging from pottery to silver jewelry with traditional or contemporary styling, is made in the Southwest by Pueblo, Navajo and Hopi Indians. The shop’s most unusual items include bead and feather earrings that are locally made and sell for $15 a pair, and an excellent selection of works by Larry Blue, an American Indian artist who hails from Pipestone, Minn.

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Blue makes red clay bowls, some hand-painted with stripes of primary colors or intricately constructed geometric patterns. Most of the bowls are sized so they fit comfortably in two cupped hands. They are priced from $25 and up. The clay Blue uses for his pottery is the same clay used for making peace pipes, and it is thought by many Native American peoples to have sacred qualities.

Riverplace’s several gift shops include Kitchen Connection II, with fine cookware, hand-painted ceramic pitchers and canisters (around $50 and up) and sweet-scented wax potpourri ($2 per bag), and Scandihus, with all things Scandinavian including sturdy Bastad wooden clogs ($41), Dale woolen sweaters from Norway ($80 and up), glassware by Kosta Boda and iittala, and needlepoint kits ($11). Games by James has challenging Minneapolis jigsaw puzzles ($9), good selections of darts and chess sets, and hard-to-find international games.

Near Riverplace is the charming, historic and recently renovated Nicollet Island Inn, 95 Merriam St., Minneapolis 55401, phone (612) 331-1800. It provides comfortable lodging for travelers who wish to escape the soaring skyscrapers and hectic pace that dominate downtown business districts. Prices range from $70 to $80, single or double occupancy.

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