Elegant August Dinner Makes Use of Summer’s Fresh Fruit Bounty

The last lingering days of summer deserve some celebration. Taking as a theme the fresh fruits of the season, this menu is centered on a pot roast of veal, simmered gently with herbs and stock until meltingly tender. The sauce is sharpened with liqueur and red currant jelly as an appropriate background for an accompaniment of caramelized fresh fruits.

Apricots, plums, figs and peaches are among the firm fruits that saute extremely well in butter. When sprinkled with a little sugar, they become deliciously juicy, browning to an appetizing caramel that forms a piquant foil for meats such as veal, pork or game. With a little more sugar, the same sauteed fruits are delicious spooned over spongecake or meringue, a dessert idea you also might like to try.

As a side dish with the veal, I’d suggest a pilaf of rice or cracked wheat. Like the veal and fruits, pilaf can be prepared ahead of time, leaving a minimum of preparation needed before dinner. Dessert, too, is made ahead.

An Italian friend introduced me to this ice cream, which consists simply of milk, cream and sugar, with no flavoring of any kind. Delectable, he insisted to my skeptical comments. And indeed he was right. Highlighted with a dash of salt, the full flavor of cream comes through as a perfect background for chocolate sauce, a splash of liqueur or simply a sprinkling of powdered coffee.

ELEGANT DINNER IN AUGUST FOR 8

Roast Veal With Fresh Figs and Apricots

Pilaf of rice or cracked wheat

Italian Ice Cream

Suggested wine: Asti Spumante or any sparkling white wine

This is the perfect menu for the working cook.

Up to one month ahead make ice cream and freeze.

Up to two days ahead cook veal, prepare sauce, cook pilaf and chill wine.

About 30 minutes before serving reheat meat in foil in oven. Reheat pilaf in oven.

About 10 minutes before serving cook fruit.

About five minutes before serving reheat cooking liquid and thicken it as sauce. Transfer ice cream to refrigerator to soften.

ROAST VEAL WITH FRESH FIGS AND APRICOTS

2 tablespoons oil

Butter

3 pounds boneless veal roast

1/2 onion, sliced

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 quart veal stock

2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

Zest of 1/2 lemon

Salt, pepper

3 tablespoons cassis liqueur

3 tablespoons red currant jelly

1 pound fresh apricots or plums, halved and pitted

3/4 pound fresh figs, trimmed and quartered

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons arrowroot

Heat oil and 2 tablespoons butter in flame-proof casserole. Add meat and brown thoroughly on all sides. Add onion and cook until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add wine and boil until reduced by half.

Add 2 cups stock, thyme, bay leaf, lemon zest and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil. Cover tightly and roast at 350 degrees until meat is very tender, 1 3/4 to 2 hours. Turn meat once during cooking to keep moist.

Remove meat and keep warm. Strain cooking liquid and boil until reduced to 3 to 4 tablespoons. Whisk in cassis and red currant jelly and stir until melted. Add remaining 2 cups stock and taste sauce to adjust for seasonings, simmering if necessary so well flavored.

If preparing ahead, wrap meat in foil. Refrigerate meat and liquid up to 2 days. Reheat meat in foil at 350 degrees 20 to 30 minutes or until very hot.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet. Add fruit and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Turn fruit sugar-side-down. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Cook over medium heat until browned and lightly caramelized, 5 to 7 minutes, turning once.

Transfer meat to platter and keep warm. Reheat cooking liquid. Mix arrowroot to paste with 2 to 3 tablespoons water and whisk into sauce to thicken slightly. Taste to adjust seasonings.

Reheat fruit, adding few tablespoons sauce and spoon around veal. Serve remaining sauce separately. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Boneless pork loin can be substituted for veal.

ITALIAN ICE CREAM

3 cups milk

3 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Heat milk, cream, sugar and salt in saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves. Do not boil. Remove from heat. Cool, then chill in refrigerator.

Freeze in ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s directions. Ice cream can be stored up to 1 month in freezer. Transfer to refrigerator 30 minutes to soften slightly before serving. Makes 8 servings.