TOFU : A bland, high protein staple of Far Eastern diets, tofu, in various forms, including soft, firm and even powdered and frozen, is beginning to find a place on Western tables.

Tofu. I like to call it the “white cow of China,” although the phrase has already been attributed to its basic ingredient, the soybean. High in protein--good-quality plant protein--the custard-like food from the East derives its humble beginnings from soybean milk. A staple in Chinese and other Oriental cuisines, the low-calorie, low-fat, no-cholesterol, highly digestible “white cow” is inching its way onto Western tables. Slowly.

Tofu: Either you like it or you don’t. Tofu on a fancy plate? Upscale tofu? This was the assignment. But trying to fit this bland-tasting block of soybean curd into a nouvelle plate presentation is like forcing a white T-shirt to become a glamorous designer outfit for a formal affair. I tried calling various trendy chefs in town. No luck; they wouldn’t touch tofu. “Try the health food shops,” was the instant (and constant) advice.

It was time to rethink tofu. Maybe gussying it up would tease palates. We attempted our own creative tofu presentations in the test kitchen. I even tried other ideas at home. No takers. The imagination and taste memory were going faster than the visual lure. “Interesting,” was the general comment. “No thanks, I’m too full from lunch,” was another safe excuse.

Well--back to Oriental seasonings and ingredients, and tofu was home.

Tofu loves soy sauce (naturally, they both come from the same source, right?), chicken broth, seafood and anything salty. Its bland nature begs for the flavor of almost any stronger-tasting sauce such as those made with garlic or ginger. And because of its sleek white appearance, tofu blends well with any color. The marriage of tofu and green vegetables is everlasting. There’s no better contrast, in color as well as texture, than a melt-in-your-mouth cube of silky tofu mingled with tender-crisp Chinese broccoli, baby bok choy or long beans.

Today you can get tofu in many forms, depending on moisture content. Some of these are: Chinese-style softer tofu, the firmer Japanese tofu, deep-fried tofu, grilled tofu, wine-fermented tofu, dried tofu, pressed tofu. Shapes include cakes, cubes, triangles, strands and noodles. There are instant powdered tofus as well as dried frozen ones. Tofu pudding is very delicate and soft; it goes well with syrups and sweet ingredients. Then there’s the tofu that now comes vacuum-packed for a longer shelf life.

It’s easy to rediscover the wonderful potential of this soybean delicacy when you taste a sampling of tofu dishes from Harbor Village, the new Chinese restaurant in Monterey Park, which is a subsidiary of a Hong Kong-based company. Their menu includes a section on tofu, featuring seven traditional dishes.

Tofu, Pei Pa Style, for example, is delicious oval-shaped tofu cakes made of mashed tofu, shrimp and ham served with chicken gravy and braised Chinese greens. The name Pei Pa stands for a musical instrument--the Chinese mandolin--which is denoted by the shape of the food. A crisp tempura-like coating highlights the Deep-Fried Shrimp Stuffed Tofu, which is moist inside. The recipes for these two dishes were provided by Hui Pui Wing, chief executive chef for the restaurant.

In the Philippines, people become addicted to fried tofu when it’s mixed with a garlicky marinade of soy sauce and vinegar. A popular accompaniment is tender-boiled pork, which is also flavored with the marinade. We developed a new twist to this idea by making a scrumptious salad. Served over lettuce, Tangy Tofu and Pork Salad uses the same marinade, but the pork is best barbecued. Diced green beans perked up the overall color and for crunch, the fried tofu was tossed with the other ingredients at the end.

I spotted a beautiful tofu dish in a beautiful cookbook called Dining in Grand Style (Thorsons Publishers, Inc.: $35) by Elizabeth Schneider with Dieter Hannig and the chefs of Hilton International. Stuffed Tofu With Shrimp was the version of a Chinese classic given by chefs Yu Wen-Shen and Huang Hsein of the Hilton International Taipei. In this simple steamed affair perfumed with ginger and cilantro, tofu bars were stuffed with shrimp and embellished with frills of green onion and red chiles.

Other recipes featured here are also geared to the adventurer. There’s Tofu Pasta with Spinach Pesto--Parmesan cheese and toasted pine nuts were sprinkled over for added gusto. A more healthful high-protein breakfast for an active day could include Sunshine Tofu and Egg--fried tofu and egg accented with a pretty yellow papaya or mango salsa. Try the silky soft tofu pudding with various syrups of your own or the recipes given here with fresh oranges or berries.

Tofu tips? Here are some: Naturally, freshness counts and a good test is a nice delicate scent. Check out the stamped date on the package and make sure you don’t go past it. For longer storage, the refrigerated shelf life of water-packed tofu can be prolonged by the daily addition of fresh water. If you do freeze tofu, be prepared for a drastic change in texture, such as a chewy sponge.

Because tofu has a great amount of water, avoid cooking it for a long period. Otherwise it’ll “sweat” too much and you’ll have a dry curd. Always marinate tofu in a glass or enamel dish, as metal may impart unappealing taste. Finally, don’t be afraid to try tofu, the friendly protein that a large portion of our world considers a staple.

TANGY TOFU AND PORK SALAD

1 (1-pound) carton regular tofu, cut in large squares

Cornstarch

Oil for deep frying

3/4 to 1 cup finely diced green beans or haricot verts

Salt, pepper

1/2 pound lean pork or 2 pork chops

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon oil, optional

Leaf lettuce, whole or shredded

2 tablespoons chopped green onions or cilantro

Dredge each tofu square lightly with cornstarch. Heat oil to 350 degrees over medium high heat. Fry tofu until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Cool. Cut into smaller cubes. Set aside.

Steam green beans with salt and pepper to taste until tender-crisp. Drain and chill. Season pork to taste with salt and pepper. Cook on barbecue grill or broil until done. Slice into thin strips. Place in bowl and add vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, salt and pepper to taste and oil. Chill.

Just before serving combine green beans with pork and marinade. Toss in crisp tofu cubes and serve over lettuce. Sprinkle with green onions. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SUNSHINE TOFU AND EGG

1 (1-pound) carton tofu, drained

4 teaspoons butter or margarine

4 small eggs

Salt, pepper

Papaya Salsa

Toast

Cut tofu block crosswise into 4 squares. Make well in center of each to fit egg. Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Add tofu square. Drop egg in center of tofu and cook over low heat until egg is done as desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Repeat with remaining tofu and eggs. Serve with Papaya Salsa and toast. Makes 4 servings.

Papaya Salsa

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1/2 cup diced papaya or mango

1 small jalapeno chile, finely chopped, optional

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon chopped oregano leaves

Combine tomatoes, onion, cilantro, papaya, chile, garlic, salt and pepper to taste, lemon juice and oregano in bowl. Mix well. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

WARM TOFU PUDDING WITH SYRUP

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup maple syrup

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

1 carton soft tofu pudding (available in Chinese markets)

Orange segments

Black sesame seeds

Strawberries

Combine brown sugar, water and maple syrup in saucepan. Heat until syrupy. Add vanilla. Scoop out tablespoons of pudding into serving dish. Spoon in hot syrup and add, as desired, orange segments (or other fruit). Sprinkle with black sesame seeds and garnish with one or two strawberries. Makes about 6 servings.

ALMOND TOFU PUDDING WITH BERRIES

1 cup water or juice

1 to 2 tablespoons instant tapioca

1 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup sugar or to taste

1/2 carton soft tofu pudding

1 cup assorted berries (strawberries, blackberries, blueberries) or lychees

Combine water and tapioca in saucepan. Add almond extract and sugar. Simmer gently 8 minutes. Add cubes or balls of tofu pudding to almond tapioca syrup. Let stand for flavors to develop. Serve warm or cold with berries or lychees. Makes about 4 servings.

TOFU “PASTA” WITH SPINACH PESTO

1 (6-ounce) package tofu noodles

2 cups chicken broth

3 cups spinach leaves

1 (1/2-ounce) package fresh basil leaves

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt, white pepper

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

Chopped tomatoes

Cook tofu noodles in boiling chicken broth 5 minutes. Leave in broth until sauce is ready.

Combine spinach leaves, basil leaves, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, lemon juice and 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese in food processor or blender container. Process lightly until chopped.

Drain tofu noodles and place on platter. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth to pesto sauce and reheat to serving temperature. Pour over tofu and toss. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and pine nuts. If desired, garnish with chopped tomatoes. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

STUFFED TOFU WITH SHRIMP (Dining in Grand Style Cookbook)

10 ounces medium raw unshelled shrimp

1 egg white

1/8 teaspoon salt

Pepper

1 pound medium (regular or Japanese) tofu

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1 medium green onion, cut into thin 2-inch strips

1 tablespoon very fine julienned ginger root

1 teaspoon very fine julienned red chile

16 cilantro sprigs

1/4 cup peanut oil

Shell shrimp and reserve 8. Mince remaining shrimp. Whisk egg white lightly to break up. Measure half, then discard or use remaining for other purpose. Blend egg white with minced shrimp, salt and pepper.

Cut tofu into 8 rectangles by first halving block horizontally, then cutting in 4 crosswise. With melon ball cutter or teaspoon, scoop well in center of each piece going about halfway through. Mound heaping teaspoon shrimp filling in each well. Set on dish to fit steamer rack.

Place dish in steamer over boiling water. Cover and steam 5 minutes. Set whole shrimp alongside tofu. Cook 1 to 2 minutes longer, until pink. Drain liquid from plates if any excess.

Spoon soy sauce onto heated serving dish. Carefully transfer tofu to dish. Set remaining whole shrimp on each. Sprinkle with green onion, ginger and chile. Top with cilantro. Heat oil in small pan. Pour evenly over all. Makes 4 main course servings or 8 appetizer servings.

Note: Small balls scooped from tofu can be steamed alongside tofu blocks if desired.

TOFU BLACK MUSHROOM SOUP

2 (14-ounce) cans chicken broth

1 cup water

2 tablespoons cornstarch

4 pieces shiitake mushrooms, rehydrated in warm water then cut in quarters

1/2 pound tofu, cut in cubes

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 cup spinach or baby bok choy leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped green onion

Few drops sesame oil

Combine chicken broth, water and cornstarch in saucepan, stirring until smooth. Bring to boil and simmer until slightly thickened. Add mushrooms and tofu. Cook 3 minutes. Slowly stir in egg, then spinach leaves and green onion. Heat 2 minutes. Add sesame oil to taste. Makes 4 servings.

TOFU, PEI PA STYLE

1 (1-pound) carton tofu, drained

1/4 pound cleaned shrimp, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped smoked or Virginia ham

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 egg

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chicken broth (homemade or canned)

2 cups peanut oil

Vegetable

Gravy

Mix together tofu, shrimp, 1 tablespoon ham, cilantro, egg, cornstarch, salt and chicken broth in bowl until chunky. Pat and mold mixture into individual Chinese soup spoons (or use other small oval molds).

Place about 1 inch water in medium saucepan. Place shallow bowl in water in saucepan, making sure water does not spill over into bowl. Place saucepan over medium-high heat and bring water to boil.

Place tofu-filled soup spoons or molds into bowl in saucepan. Tightly cover saucepan and steam 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Remove tofu-shrimp oval from spoons and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside to cool.

Heat oil in large skillet. Fry tofu ovals about 1 minute, turning to cook evenly on all sides. (Tofu cakes fry best if at room temperature or chilled.) Drain on paper towels.

Serve tofu ovals over Vegetable. Pour Gravy over all. Sprinkle with remaining ham. Serve immediately with steamed rice if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Vegetable

1 pound Chinese broccoli, asparagus or green beans

2 tablespoons oil

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt

4 tablespoons cold water

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Cut broccoli into serving sizes. Heat oil in skillet over medium high heat. Stir-fry garlic and broccoli. Add dash salt and 1 tablespoon cold water in pan. Cover and cook few minutes until tender-crisp. Combine cornstarch and remaining 3 tablespoons cold water and add to broccoli. Cook just until thickened. Arrange on serving platter.

Gravy

1/2 teaspoon julienned ginger root

2 teaspoons oil

1 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2 tablespoons cold water

1 teaspoon Sherry

Saute ginger in oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add chicken broth and bring to boil. Combine cornstarch and water and add to broth. Simmer, stirring constantly, until broth thickens. Stir in Sherry. Serve hot over tofu ovals. Makes about 1 cup.

DEEP-FRIED STUFFED TOFU

4 ounces shrimp, cleaned and minced

Salt

Dash white pepper

4 ounces cornstarch

1 (1-pound) carton tofu, drained

2 egg whites

1/2 cup water

2 cups peanut oil

Chinese chili sauce

Soy sauce

Combine shrimp, 1/4 teaspoon salt, white pepper and 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch in small bowl. Cut 2-inch thick tofu in half horizontally, then cut each piece into 4 rectangles. Make small indentation in top of each tofu rectangle. Press about 1 teaspoon shrimp mixture into each indentation.

Mix together egg whites, remaining cornstarch, water and salt to taste in shallow bowl. Set aside. Heat oil to 375 degrees in heavy skillet or wok over medium high heat.

Quickly dip stuffed tofu into egg white-cornstarch batter. Gently place tofu in oil and deep fry 3 to 4 minutes, turning pieces, if necessary, or until golden brown and shrimp is cooked.

Drain on paper towels. Place on serving platter and garnish as desired. Serve with Chinese chili sauce and soy sauce in two separate dishes on side for dipping. Makes 4 servings.