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The <i> Almost</i> Foolproof Cheesecake

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Times Staff Writer

Amateur chefs generally--and wisely, we might say--stay away from delicate desserts such as real cheesecake because their chances of success are maybe one in 10.

It is for them, and himself, that Dominic Daddario says he devised an “almost idiot-proof” ricotta cream cheesecake (“ almost idiot-proof because there’s always an outside chance you can get your tie, or tongue, tangled in the mixer blades”).

And, in truth, anyone who can tell time and figure out where the kitchen is can turn out a Daddario cheesecake that, in both appearance and taste, would be the envy of any Cordon Bleu graduate.

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“You just throw all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix them until smooth and creamy and then you bake it,” says the Anaheim resident. “You don’t even have to separate the eggs.”

After baking for one hour, the cheesecake must sit undisturbed in the oven for an additional two hours and the only caution he issues is, “don’t open the oven door until all the time has passed.”

Daddario, 40, was raised in an apartment above his family’s restaurant in Niagara, N.Y., and says he could cook almost before he could walk and “grew up making meatballs.” The restaurant was founded by his grandparents after their arrival from Italy. “The only things they knew how to do well were make babies and cook, so they did both,” he says.

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When the restaurant--called Daddario’s, of course--passed on to his parents, Daddario’s involvement increased and he remained active until the restaurant was sold in the ‘60s and the family moved to Southern California.

“I stayed close to the business,” he says, “getting into the marketing of consumer food products. I worked with the Stouffer’s food technology people and learned a lot about the chemical complexities of food and how they work with your senses of taste and smell.

“That knowledge has served me well,” he says. “I can usually tell by looking at the ingredients exactly what something will taste like.”

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And while he likes to experiment with various kinds of food, he also believes in keeping dishes simple. “I do a lot of experimenting, but most of that is designed to make dishes easier to make.”

“And, strangely enough, I don’t do a lot of Italian food. Lately, I’ve been more into Cajun.”

Now a co-owner, with his brother Jack, of Dominic Daddario’s Inc., of Anaheim, which designs and constructs restaurant interiors, he pretty much confines his cooking to weekends and says one of the great joys of his life is “watching the look on guests’ faces when they first taste something I’ve cooked.”

Each week, Orange County Life will feature a man who enjoys cooking and a favorite recipe. Tell us about your candidate. Write to Guys & Galleys, Orange County Life, The Times, 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, Calif. 92626.

DOMINIC DADDARIO’S ‘IDIOT-PROOF’ RICOTTA CHEESECAKE

Ingredients

1 pound cream cheese, softened

1 pound ricotta cheese

1 pint sour cream

4 eggs

1 1/2 cup sugar

3 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/4 pound butter, melted

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large bowl, mix all ingredients until smooth with an electric mixer. Grease, flour 10-inch spring form pan. Pour mixture into pan and bake 1 hour. After hour has elapsed, turn oven off but leave pie in an additional 2 hours. Do not open oven door during setting period. When 2 hours have elapsed, remove pie from oven and invert it on serving dish and remove pan. Top with any of the following: fresh raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, sliced peaches, pineapple or combination of mandarin orange and kiwi fruit.

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