The Early Line on the Daily Grill

At 7:30 Wednesday night there was already a line for tables. Considering that the restaurant had been open only a day, this was surprising. Then again, considering that the Daily Grill, 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 442-0044, is the little brother of Beverly Hills’ the Grill, maybe it wasn’t so surprising.

It’s always amazed me that nobody has cloned the Grill, which started serving straightforward American food before the current craze started, and continues to be one of the most consistently popular restaurants in town. Now the Daily Grill is serving much the same menu, in a much more easygoing atmosphere, at much lower prices. Why wouldn’t it be packed?

The room itself is large and square, with booths around the wall, a counter around the open kitchen and widely spaced tables scattered about. It has the clean lines of a no-nonsense Midwestern restaurant. The menu is huge and almost exactly like the one at the Grill--without the high-ticket items. You can get a steak if you want, but it’s a top sirloin ($12), and it comes with an enormous piece of broccoli on the plate. You can also get a hamburger ($5.50), all manner of seafood, a bowl of chili ($5.75), a plate of pasta or a grilled cheese sandwich ($4.50). They’ve got the Grill’s good Caesar salad, and a great list of potato dishes.

Fans of the Grill’s tapioca pie and rice pudding will be happy to find them here. And early risers will want to know that this Grill serves breakfast. The restaurant opens at 7 a.m., which may be when you’ll have to get there to avoid waiting in line.