A Pair That Can Match Mom’s Best

If I could just pull down a small blackboard from the bottom of the newspaper, I’d do a little takeout Show and Tell. First, I’d draw two overlapping but not concentric circles--one for Buon’ Appetito, a Continental deli in Marina del Rey, and one for Delice, a French cafe in West Hollywood. Then I’d sketch a small genealogy chart and a map. (Audrey Marsden and Bernard Quetier own Buon’ Appetito; Bernard Quetier and Jean Bonnardot, ex-chef at Ma Maison and patissier, are the proprietors of Delice. Food is prepared for both shops in Marina del Rey and trucked daily to West Hollywood.)

Next, I’d pass around two big bound books, the ones you’d find on the counters at Buon’ Appetito and Delice. Inside you’d see snapshots of what used to be called Spreads for Affairs. You know: pastry trays, fruit boats, bacon-wrapped bananas, page after page of symmetrical food fantasies just waiting to be painted by Wayne Thiebaud.

I would explain that both places have big menus and do lots of catering--and remind you not to be disappointed if everything listed wasn’t available on the day you came in. (Should you have a craving for mini calzone , braciola or lemon tart, you need only call 24 hours ahead to ensure availability.)

But even if you happen to be the drop-in type, chances are you’ll find something satisfying on the premises. Like a moist poached salmon with a luscious creamy dill sauce (price is seasonal, now at $5.75 for half a pound), or a wonderful lasagna (sausage, spinach, chicken pesto) made with homemade pasta and a sauce that some mother-equivalent has been stirring all day.

At this point in your personal Show and Tell I’d bring out a tray of the homemade giant shells stuffed with ricotta and pesto so rich and so fresh that you’d be hooked. (And only $3.75 for 10.) The fluffy eggplant Parmesan would also make you glad these mother-equivalents are around town taking the trouble to cook.

If you wanted a blast-from-the-past, I’d pull out the tray of creamy deviled eggs, alternately dotted with fussy little toppings: tiny bits of ham, pee-wee shrimp and demitasse spoonfuls of black caviar ($8 per dozen). These “fantasy eggs” would be the perfect centerpiece for an all-girl ‘50s tea party. While the bocconcini saporiti , a “morsel” of Italian sausage “crowned” with “bits” of cheese and olive, are visually the perfect retro hors d’oeuvre, you will want to pass up this assemblage-on-a-toothpick.

Winding down the lecture-demo, I would quickly steer you away from the puzzling cold herb chicken covered with awful little bits of too many ingredients and from the chicken cutlet, a dead ringer for batter-fried glove. Instead, I’d bring out dessert and you could work your way from glistening tarte tatin to altered-state-inducing chocolate truffles to the little lemon tart capped with a crown of crusty meringue. Then I’d ring the bell, bring in Delice’s and Buon’ Appetito’s excellent espresso and class would be dismissed.