Cheeseboro Canyon: Get There Before Bulldozers Do

It’s the old California of the ranchos: oak-studded potreros, rolling foothills that glow amber in the dry months, emerald green in springtime. It’s not hard to imagine vaqueros rounding up tough Mexican range cattle.

But today, this last vestige of old California, a canyon called Cheeseboro, faces an uncertain future. Though partially protected by the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, part of the canyon and much of the surrounding countryside may go the way of the ranchos; that is to say--sold, subdivided and paved over.

County Supervisor Mike Antonovich and the Los Angeles County Department of Public Works are considering the construction of a four-lane boulevard in the lower reaches of Cheeseboro Canyon. A developer wants to build a suburb and a golf course on land bordering the park. If pro-development forces have their way, the last wildlife corridor connecting the Santa Monica Mountains to the open lands of the north will become part of Thousand Oaks Boulevard. If subdividers are successful, this little bit of parkland perched on the western rim of the San Fernando Valley will soon be an island facing the tidal wave of development sweeping the Simi Hills.

When walking beneath a canopy of oak and sycamore in the bottom of Cheeseboro Canyon, it’s possible to leave people and politics far behind and enjoy this Southern California of old. But ascending the canyon’s north wall on the Modello Trail brings you to a confrontation with modernity--the sight of bulldozers making molehills out of mountains.

Cheeseboro Canyon--for now--is a pleasant walk, gentle enough for the whole family. Weekdays it’s an especially tranquil locale.

Directions to the trailhead: From the Ventura Freeway in Agoura, exit north on Chesebro Road. Loop inland very briefly on Palo Comado Canyon Road, then turn right on Chesebro Road, which leads to the National Park Service’s gravel entrance road and parking lot.

The hike: Note your return route, Modello Trail, snaking north up the wall of the canyon, but follow the fire road east into Cheeseboro Canyon. The fire road soon swings north and dips into the canyon. You’ll pass a signed intersection with Canyon Overlook Trail, a less-than-thrilling side trail that leads to a knoll overlooking the Lost Hills landfill.

After this junction, the main canyon trail, now known as Sulfur Springs Trail, winds through valley oak-dotted ( Quercus lobata ) grassland and coast live oak-lined ( Quercus agrifolia ) canyon. Watch for mule deer browsing in the meadows and a multitude of squirrels scurrying among the oaks.

The old road crisscrosses an (usually) all-but-dry stream bed. About 3 miles from the trailhead, your nose will tell you that you’ve arrived at Sulfur Springs. You can turn around here or continue another 1 3/4 miles up a narrowing trail and canyon to an old sheep corral.

Return the way you came on Sulfur Springs Trail to a junction three-fourths of a mile from the trailhead. Join signed Modello Trail, which ascends the west wall of the canyon. From the ridge top you can get a good view of Cheeseboro Canyon and can ponder the future of what is one of the finest remaining oak woodlands in Southern California.

At a signed junction, stay with Modello Trail, which loops around the head of a ravine, then descends to the trailhead.

A map highlighting the trails and natural features of Cheeseboro Canyon is available. For a copy, send a business-size, self-addressed stamped envelope to: Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, Attn: Cheeseboro Map, 22900 Ventura Blvd., Suite 140, Woodland Hills 91364.

Cheeseboro Canyon Trail

National Park Service parking lot to Sulfur Springs: 6 miles round trip; 100-foot elevation gain.

National Park Service parking lot to sheep corral: 9 1/2 miles round trip; 200-foot elevation gain.