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Homage to Pablo Casals

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<i> Riley is travel columnist for Los Angeles magazine and a regular contributor to this section</i>

Pablo Casals, who died nearly 25 years ago at 96, left his cello to the people of this island. It is on display in a small 16th-Century museum that was dedicated to the famed musician and opened in 1978.

Casals also will be honored June 3-18 when the 33rd annual Casals festival is held in a 3,000-seat Performing Arts Center in San Juan. Reservations are being requested from Europe, South America and across the United States. A sell-out is expected.

The festival is dedicated to the memory of Casals who played his cello twice at the White House and most memorably in a recital for peace at the United Nations in New York City. The National Symphony of Washington, D.C., New York City’s Juilliard String Quartet and the Puerto Rico Symphony Orchestra will be showcased.

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A Curtain-Raiser

A highlight will be 80-year-old Alexander Schneider, who was Casals’ conductor, leading the festival’s opening concert. Popular Puerto Rican cellist Rafael Figueroa also will perform.

As a curtain-raiser for this year’s festival, Puerto Rico has opened a Museum of Music in Ponce, across the island from San Juan.

The museum, in an old Spanish-style hacienda with red-tile roof, offers the story of Puerto Rican music and dance, beginning with instruments of prehistoric Indians and continuing through the nearly five centuries since Columbus.

The festival also will offer visitors the many cultural and historic attractions of San Juan, which are close to beach resorts and country inns around the island.

The Performing Arts Center is only about l5 minutes from Museo Pablo Casals in Old San Juan.

The museum contains exhibits, photographs and musical scores from Casals compositions and concerts, including a special library of festival tapes.

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Casals, who was born in Catalonia, Spain, in 1876, arrived in Puerto Rico in 1956.

Starting Point

Museo Pablo Casals is a starting point for a walking tour of Old San Juan. It’s on Plaza de San Jose, in the historic area of the city founded by Juan Ponce de Leon, who landed on the island with Columbus in 1493.

His descendants worshiped in the Church of San Jose facing the plaza, and the conquistador himself was buried here. He died after being wounded during his search for the fountain of youth. His body was moved to the San Juan Cathedral in 1908, but his coat of arms still hangs above the altar of the old church.

Around the corner from the Casals Museum is an 18th-Century residence that now houses the Museum of Graphic Arts. Nearby is the Dominican Convent, built in 1523. Today it is the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture, with a double-galleried patio and a folk arts center.

Cultural attractions are within walking distance in the seven-square-block historic area. The San Juan Museum of History and Art was built as a marketplace in the middle of the last century.

Another 18th-Century residence has become the La Casa del Libro book museum. A colonial mansion that is now the Museum of Puerto Rican Art began its collections with pre-Columbian arts. Drama, concerts and ballet are presented in the restored 19th-Century Tapia Theatre. The Museum of Colonial Architecture has scale models of historic buildings.

Tours of Waterfront Forts

The waterfront forts of El Morro and San Cristobal were built to protect the old city. Tours of the forts are led by the National Park Service. Nearby are boutiques and restaurants.

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Major hotels and many small inns are close to Old San Juan and the Performing Arts center. Country inns within easy reach by rental car start as low as $35 for double accommodations.

The Caribe Hilton is on the grounds of Ft. Geronimo, near Old San Juan. Facilities include a beach, tennis courts, a health club, several restaurants, a casino and entertainment.

Close to the Caribe Hilton is the Normandie Hotel, a national historic monument that was closed for 12 years, but has opened as the Radisson Normandie, following a $20-million restoration.

The classic columns and gold ceiling ornamentation have been retained. There’s a freshwater swimming pool beside the sea. An executive chef from Maxim’s in Paris supervises the French cuisines. Doubles at the Radisson Normandie begin at $155.

Within half an hour by car from the Performing Arts Center is the Hyatt Dorado Beach Resort, founded by Laurance Rockefeller. Besides the beaches, pools and water sports, it shares two golf courses and 2l tennis courts with its companion Hyatt Regency Cerromar Beach Resort.

Festival tickets cost $10 to $20, with a 50% discount for students, senior citizens and the handicapped. Tickets are available through the Performing Arts Center in Puerto Rico, telephone (809) 725-7334.

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For more information, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Co., 3575 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Suite 248, Los Angeles 90068, or call (213) 874-5991.

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