Continental Divided

Radicchio and quiche may come and go but Continental is here to stay.

Cyril’s of Los Angeles, 740 S. La Brea, Los Angeles. (213) 552-9745. Style: Enormous feasting of Continental Southern. Setting : Liberace visits the Cotton Club. Recommended dishes: Meat loaf, pan-fried catfish. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Europa, 14929 Magnolia, Sherman Oaks. (818) 501-9175. Style: Heavy for the hungry. Setting: Plants, posters. Recommended dishes: Osso buco on pasta; roast pork loin stuffed with sausage. Cost per person: $10-$20.

La Ve Lee, 12514 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 980-8158. Style: Continental dinner house with a Middle Eastern accent. Setting: Dim and cozy. Recommended dishes: Appetizer combo plate; shawarma. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Ravel, Sheraton Grande Hotel, 333 S. Figueroa, Los Angeles. (213) 617-1133. Style: Continental mixed with cooking-school creative. Setting: Pluuussssh. Recommended dishes: Seared duck breast with mixed fruits; pepper steak with morels and crayfish. Cost per person: $30-$45.

The Tower, Transamerica Tower, 1150 S. Olive St., Los Angeles. (213) 746-1554. Style: Rich, tender and uninvolving food with a view. Setting: Lots of windows. Recommended dishes: Capon Madagascar; steak tartare; salmon in filo. Cost per person: $30-$50.