RESTAURANTS : Some Places to Munch Brunch With Mother

Mother’s Day is almost here, and for many families, that means celebrating in the form of a festive Sunday brunch. Hotels are always a reliable bet on holidays, but the choice is by no means limited to them. Check to see if your favorite restaurant is planning to open, and, if not, consider one of the following suggestions. But remember, these brunch spots are popular enough on normal Sundays, so make reservations as soon as possible. All are sure to be booked solid days before the holiday.

If mother has sumptuous tastes, the first-class buffet brunch at the Newporter Resort seems an obvious choice. Chef Jon Benson plans an even bigger spread than he had at Easter, when several rooms were filled with tables groaning with haute specialties.

Begin at the cold table and choose smoked tuna and salmon, carved to order, or ethereal minceur terrines made from wild mushrooms, scallops and other luxury items. Then proceed to the breakfast station where omelets, pasta dishes and pancakes are cooked to order with such embellishments as caviar, chorizo, pesto or fresh berries.

Hot dishes should be every bit as elaborate: Bourbon-glazed ham, beef Wellington and Benson’s wonderful stuffed chicken, near to bursting with a mixture of chevre, spinach and wild mushrooms.

For those who can still eat, desserts include gateau St. Honore and golden raspberry mousse. There’s free-flowing, complimentary champagne and a strolling Dixieland band. Seating is from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. in the Jamboree Cafe and the patio.

The Newporter Resort, 1107 Jamboree Road, Newport Beach. (714) 644-1700. Brunch is $19.95 for adults, $9.95 for children. All major cards accepted.

Brunch at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Dana Point is probably the county’s most expensive. The hotel offers a gorgeous natural setting, plus opulent trappings for its Pavilion buffet. There’s a classical pianist, orchid sprigs for the ladies and a special children’s table with dishes like Ovaltine porridge and peanut blueberry muffins.

Come early and look around--flowers are in bloom on the 18-acre garden overlooking the Pacific. Then get a load of the French tapestries and crystal chandeliers in the Ballroom where brunch is served.

A cold salad bar features such delicacies as Oriental carpaccio , wild mushrooms and fresh fennel in a Chardonnay thyme vinaigrette, sliced fresh fruit with creme fraiche, and fresh shellfish. Hot stuffed veal and beef tenderloin with chanterelle and tarragon are carved to order. Don’t miss the apple and almond crepes in rum raisin sauce, or chef Rassinoux’s wonderful mousselines. You can’t miss the centerpiece, a life-size ice carving of mother and child.

The Ritz-Carlton hotel, 33533 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Dana Point. (714) 240-5008. Brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., $35 per person, $18 for children 12 and under. All major cards accepted.

If a lively atmosphere is what you are after, Peppers is the ticket. This restaurant caters to singles, families and just about anybody else. This year’s special brunch features a live barbershop quartet plus a gaudy spread that includes an eggs Benedict station, a Belgian waffle bar, made-to-order omelets, a fajitas bar, a shrimp and ceviche bar, a fresh fruit and salad bar and, hold your breath, a hot fudge sundae bar. The food is surprisingly good, and the prices more than reasonable.

Peppers, 12361 Chapman Ave., Plaza Alicante, Garden Grove . (714) 740-1333. Brunch from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., $12.95 for adults, $6.95 for children. All major cards accepted.

Gandhi, an upscale Indian restaurant in South Coast Village, is a non-traditional Mother’s Day alternative, but it may be just what mother would like.

This is a rather formal restaurant where waiters wear tuxedos, tables are set in linen, and the tone is quiet and understated. But there is nothing understated about the food, which is highly spiced and almost overly rich.

The special prix fixe menu will include tandoori chicken (cooked in the clay oven), lamb kabab, prawn saag (cooked with chopped spinach), chicken jalfrezi (sauteed in butter and spices, with tomato, bell pepper and onion), and the requisite north India vegetable dishes: eggplant with spring onion, garbanzo beans stewed with ginger, and vegetarian pilau . Sit in the glass-enclosed greenhouse for more exotic reflections.

Gandhi, 3820 Plaza Drive Santa Ana. (714) 556-7273. Champagne brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., $12.95 for adults, $6.60 for children under 10. All major cards accepted.

Canterra looks as if it belongs in the tropics. It’s a relaxing, luxurious restaurant with plenty of pastel colors, tropical plants and fresh flowers. It is located in Laguna Beach’s San Maarten Hotel, about as exotic a locale as one can find in these parts, and I find it one of the area’s most pleasant dining rooms.

All the stops will be pulled out on Mother’s Day with a lavish, sit-down brunch including a fashion show staged by Chez Joey. Additionally, every mother will get a complimentary family picture.

Chef Mark Price plans to serve dishes such as Cajun scramble, French toast stuffed with pear puree, a toothsome linguine primavera. He also has some surprises in store just for the occasion. There is no set price for the brunch, but champagne will be poured free of charge.

Canterra, 696 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (714) 494-0162. Brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. All major cards accepted.

A note from Times News Bites columnist Beverly Bush Smith:

Several restaurants normally closed on Sunday mornings will be open for Mother’s Day brunch, including the Rex at Newport Pier ((714) 675-2566) and Monique French restaurant in Laguna Beach ((714) 499-5359).

And for those who would rather celebrate Mother’s Day in a home setting, A’la Carte Bistro in Huntington Beach will offer a special takeout brunch featuring 10 different items for a minimum of four hungry people, at $11.95 per person. Dishes include a California fruit platter, seafood platter, chicken Mendocino and Swiss fresh strawberry cake ((714) 840-8152).