Monaco Is a Spin of the Wheel Away

With the glistening yacht riding at anchor in the protected harbor, several Rolls-Royces, Ferraris and Lamborghinis parked before the luxe Hotel de Paris, and the crowd at an open-air cafe across the square dressed mainly by Saville Row and couturier salons, it’s easy to get the idea that money makes the world go round in Monte Carlo.

And so it used to be in the 19th and early 20th centuries when Monaco was almost a naughty word, thanks to the high-stakes casino gambling and other extravagances favored here at the time.

But war and taxes took their toll, and Monaco turned to other sources of revenue. Gambling is now way down on the list behind real estate, banking and tourism.

All the same, stories still abound of lucky streaks at the tables, such as that of an Englishman who got on a fabulous roll and ended up almost owning the place. But that was in 1891 . . . and he blew it all the next season.

Getting here: Fly Air France nonstop to Paris, UTA the same from San Francisco. Other domestic and foreign carriers will also get you to Paris. Take Air Inter or Air France on down to Nice. Monte Carlo is 13 miles from the Nice airport, and a helicopter will whisk you here for $50 U.S., about the same as cab fare.

How long/how much? Two days should do it, as Monaco is not noted for its beaches. Even without the high rollers in residence, Monte Carlo can hardly be called inexpensive, with food and lodging costs above those of neighboring France.

A few fast facts: The French franc is currency here, recently selling at six per dollar, or about 16 cents each. Summer temperatures are usually in the high 70s; in winter it’s seldom colder than the 50s and high 40s. Easter and August are terribly crowded. There’s a fine bus system, a ride costing 85 cents.

Getting settled in: Hotel du Louvre (16 Blvd. des Moulins; $93 to $116 double, B&B;) is a small, pretty place in the center of things near the casino. Bright marble floors set off Oriental rugs in the lobby, and the antique clock, shelves of books and huge vases of flowers give the place a feeling of an old manor house. Bedrooms are most comfortable, those with sea views more expensive. Breakfast only.

Le Siecle (10 Ave. Prince Pierre; $83-$115, double, depending on season), near the railway station, is a modern place with a plain lobby and bedrooms furnished in traditional ways. Double windows shield you from street noise. The dining room serves a fixed luncheon daily for $11; dinners go for $15.

Hotel Welcome (Villefranche-sur-Mer; $78-103, B&B;, double) is about five miles east down the coast in France, a charming little hotel right on a tiny port. We’ve known it for years. The St. Pierre restaurant here rates a mention in Gault Millau, while the St. Pierre chapel just out the front door was decorated by Jean Cocteau, a frequent visitor to the hotel. Villefranche is a good base for visiting Monaco and Nice.

Regional food and drink: Just getting started on a meal in Monaco should delight anyone. Begin with a piece of garlic bread spread with tapenade , a paste of chopped black olives, olive oil and plenty of spices. Perhaps a zucchini tart, or the Provencal pissaladiere , a pizza with fried onions, black olives and anchovies.

Pistou is a vegetable soup laced with basil and popular all along the Cote d’Azur, while a creamed mussel soup with vegetables and saffron is no less favored.

Just about anything that swims appears on Monacan menus, usually prepared as in neighboring France or Italy. And few menus skip tripe dishes and lamb; both are delicious. They, like the seafood, go well with Provencal wines.

Good dining: Any dish mentioned above, plus another 40 or so dishes and desserts, can be had at Le Pistou (Loews Monte Carlo Hotel, Avenue Spelugues), long noted for its regional-food-only policy. Even the decor is Provencal rustic in this attractive setting, with a five-course spread going for $35. Le Pistou is right over the water, and the view at sunset is lovely. Musicians add a festive air, playing Monegasque and Italian folk music.

L’Estragon (6 Rue Emile de Loth) is on the Old Town hill, an old-fashioned place with Monegasque-Provencal decor as well as an outdoor terrace-garden. The folks here are very helpful, leading you through menus that feature dishes from $7 to $16. The $11 luncheon might start with salad nicoise , then go on to main dishes of pork, chicken, steak or an omelet with vegetables, ending with fruit or a fine selection of cheeses. L’Estragon is just down a narrow street from the Royal Palace.

Cafe de Paris (Place du Casino) is definitely the place to see and be seen. Because it’s open daily for 22 hours from 8 a.m., people stop in for meals, afternoon drinks or coffee any time. The crowd is an eclectic one, with visiting celebrities, local swells, businessmen and just plain folks from town or afar.

The ambiance is belle epoque , which is the era it dates from, with light coming through the greenhouse ceiling to fall on marble walls, ebony box seating and stained-glass windows of the four seasons.

A menu lets you choose anything from a croque-monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) for $7.50 on up to a filet de boeuf au poivre for $24, with interesting stops along the way.

Going first-class: Hotel de Paris (Place du Casino; $216-$365) comes very close to being the ne plus ultra of European hotels, a palace of opulence built in 1864 that is equally ornate in its wedding-cake facade and Empire drawing rooms. The Louis XV dining room is blessed with two Michelin stars, and the decor lives up to its royal name.

Vista Palace Hotel (Roquebrune-Cap Martin; $183-$216) clings to a cliff high above Monte Carlo just over the eastern border with France, two miles by twisting streets from the city center. After years of benign neglect as a family- owned enterprise, Vista Palace has been taken over and renovated into a sparkling jewel of modern design and boasts every conceivable amenity.

The view down to Monte Carlo and the coast is spectacular, particularly at night, and Le Vistaero restaurant has moved quickly into contention for highest honors along the Cote d’Azur.

On your own: Monaco Ville is the Old Town on a hill, Monte Carlo is the new city across the port. Take a stroll through the former, making sure to time your visit for a changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. Then go to the nearby neo-Romanesque cathedral where Princess Grace is buried; her tomb is usually covered with flowers from adoring monegasques.

While up on the hill, visit the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium, one of Europe’s finest. Back in Monte Carlo, be sure to see the fascinating Doll Museum (17 Ave. Princess Grace). Monaco’s Exotic Gardens are also worthy of a stop and feature more than 7,000 varieties of succulents and other exotic plants in a beautiful rock setting.

To have a flutter at chemin de fer or just to watch, walk through the casino, a study in rococo built in 1878 with all the excesses of the era. The one-arm-bandits’ room opens at 10 a.m. and admission is free.

For more information: Call the Monaco Government Tourist Office at (212) 759-5227, or write (845 3rd Ave., New York 10022) for a map and brochures on sights, things to do, hotels, restaurants and shopping.