Open Kitchen

Someone’s in the kitchen, as you can see.

Brentwood Bar & Grill, 11647 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood. (213) 820-2121. Style: Grill with frills. Setting: Murmurs and money. Recommended dishes: Potato and onion tart; grilled shrimp with vegetable spaghetti; angel food sandwich. Cost per person, food only: $25-$45.

Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 857-0034. Style: California-French by L.A.’s premiere French pastry chef. Setting: Bright and airy with pretty garden patio that looks into the kitchen. Recommended dishes: Oyster mousse with beet sauce; grilled baby salmon; mille feuille with creme brulee. Cost per person, food only: $25-$60.

Shane Hidden on the Glen, 2932 Beverly Glen Circle, Los Angeles. (213) 470-6223. Style: Neighbhorhood pizza parlor to the stars. Setting: Alice in Southwesternland. Recommended dishes: Santa Fe chicken soup with ravioli; pizza with lamb sausage; beef quesadilla. Cost per person, food only: $12-$35.

Tulipe, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 655-7400. Style: French for the fun of it. Setting: Bright and noisy. Recommended dishes: Ravioli made of duck ham and snails in parsley coulis; blue cheese and pear pastry; smoked salmon on sauerkraut. Cost per person , food only: $20-$35.

Victor Hugo’s, 235 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills. (213) 858-7292. Style: A lesson in the art of dining. Setting: Sleek and modern. Recommended dishes: Taramasalata ; loin of lamb; tournedos of salmon. Cost per person, food only: $25-$40.